Can you put fire brick mortar in the bottom of a uds

I used firebrick Mortar to seal joints around my air draw holes at the bottom.

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I am glad this came up, I am coming very close to finishing my UDS and was wondering how much air would be drawn in from my ball ball valve . I was going to weld it but I do have a tube of Fire Block repair mortar but had no idea if it would bond to metal good enough.

Eggtastico, how long has your mortar been on ? I had also though about using some Cold Weld which I know will bond very well to the drum an its non toxic.
 
I normally use Rutland RTV High Heat Silicone to seal any cracks, etc.
I wanted a material I could sand, grind, etc. smooth. So, I built one BUFORD and used JB Weld High Temperature to seal the firebox to the drum. Been 2 years now, no cracks, etc. Expensive option if you need a lot.

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No doubt the JB will outlast the drum, but ya its pricey, here in Canada its over $10, but I picked some up when a store was closing up shop for $5 each.

I would need enough to do the ball valve and three bung holes because I used the bottom of the drum as the top of my smoker and the lid had three bung holes, though I honestly do not know if any measurable amount of air would pass through the bungs even after I removed the rubber gaskets.
 
Eggtastico, how long has your mortar been on ? I had also though about using some Cold Weld which I know will bond very well to the drum an its non toxic.

I build my UDS last year Some has came off the exterior as I have left it outside in all weather, but still got a good seal to not bother doing it again.
 
I'm almost done with my first UDS! It's not perfect by a long shot, but I hope it'll cook some good grub. Just waiting on the arrival of a washing machine drum to make a fire basket then she'll be up and running :mrgreen:

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I'm almost done with my first UDS! It's not perfect by a long shot, but I hope it'll cook some good grub. Just waiting on the arrival of a washing machine drum to make a fire basket then she'll be up and running :mrgreen:

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:twitch:You have no Nipples:shock:..... :razz: Looks good can't wait to see it puffin Sweet Blue
 
Here is my first UDS build..
Almost ready...

















 
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So here is my drum!

I will need to do another burn-out first though (paint still remaining on the bottom of the barrel and i've also done a few more drills in order to put casters on the bottom of the barrel)

However, it has been left outside for a couple of months and as such is now rusted.
Q1) Is it necessary to get rid of this rust before proceeding with paint etc?

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Q2) I plan on using a weber lid for this, however as you can see it doesn't fit perfectly, I've read a few different methods for fixing this problem, but I haven't really seen a consensus on the matter,any tips?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for all who have contributed to this great thread, it is a gold mine.
 
^^You're going to want to get that rust off before you paint. Otherwise the paint will just peel within a month or so. How does the inside look? Same goes for the inside. Remove the rust and then season as soon as possible.
 
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Thanks for the reply, this is the inside of the drum.
What do you suggest as the best way to get rid of it? I would prefer to stay away from sandblasting as it seems really expensive over here in Ireland.
 
The inside doesn't look horrible. I'd sand it out by hand either with some sand paper or steel wool. It will be a little messy, but not terrible. It shouldn't take too long. The exterior is going to be the fun part.
 
Q2) I plan on using a weber lid for this, however as you can see it doesn't fit perfectly, I've read a few different methods for fixing this problem, but I haven't really seen a consensus on the matter,any tips?

If you have the kettle that the lid came from and are willing to sacrifice it, you can cut about 2 inches off the top of the kettle and bolt it to the inside. That way, the lid will fit properly.

If you don't have a kettle to sacrifice, you can just get some mild steel sheet, bend it into a circle and do the same thing.

Matt
 
If you have the kettle that the lid came from and are willing to sacrifice it, you can cut about 2 inches off the top of the kettle and bolt it to the inside. That way, the lid will fit properly.

If you don't have a kettle to sacrifice, you can just get some mild steel sheet, bend it into a circle and do the same thing.

Matt

Thanks for this matt.

This definitely seems to be the long-term solution.

Is their anyway to bodge a seal in order to cook on it? I.e. Using household items, tinfoil etc.
 
Honestly rufio, I don't know. I'm still building my first UDS but have read everything I can, especially about using the Weber lid. (I scored a 22.5 Weber that had been used 3 times for $20 on craigs list) Those solutions were the ones that I have seen most.

As a temporary solution you could try the tin foil scrunched up into a "sausages" and see how that goes.

Matt
 
My drum is 30gal and has a 18.5 Weber lid, but in order to get the lid to fit I had to flip my drum over and use the bottom, so try flipping your drum over.
 
In my naivety I already drilled holes before ensuring the lid fit perfectly. I should still have the rest of the kettle in my folks house so that will be the solution, also gives me a chance to use the angle grinder!
 
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