Ive used them, Worked to drill out my holes dont know if they have much life left but havent used them since
 
Upside down?

Been looking and I've noticed that a lot of folks use an open top drum upside down with a kettle lid on top. Looks like it would be good for easy access to the bottom for cleaning occasionally. My only concern is does grease leak out the bottom?
 
Been looking and I've noticed that a lot of folks use an open top drum upside down with a kettle lid on top. Looks like it would be good for easy access to the bottom for cleaning occasionally. My only concern is does grease leak out the bottom?
I've asked this before when I was looking for a drum.
It's not for easy access, it's just that the lid fits the other end and not on the open end with the lock band.
 
Some folks have been asken me to show how I built my racks so here are some more picts.



You can get away with bolts on just one rack but I like the ability to swap out the racks mid cook top for bottom etc. I do some small catering gigs where I cook 3 shoulders per rack. The bottom rack would get done about 3 hrs sooner so now I swap halfway when I foil. The racks can be lifted out with ease. The bolts let the racks act as a stand/table with meat on the racks. I can quickly pull the racks and meat out and close the lid back up. I'll foil than swap rack positions. Having two levels of support bolts (bolted through the drum) doesn't allow for this since your bottom rack will get hung up on the top bolts. I also put my thermometer below the bottom rack. It again is just for looks. It runs about 40 degrees cooler at that level than the center of the top rack.


Here I have a third rack that sits on the top rack. This will allow me to cook two to three racks of spares (St Louis) Rib tips go on the bottom rack. We cook 4 racks for competitions and this method allows me to cook em flat without a rib rack. I also foil ribs so again they can lay flat two racks per rack. This also works for chicken pieces.








Here I have my third rack (rib rack)


I used pure non plated steel bolts. Hardware total for two racks $5. Stanless steel will set you back $40. These bolts are coated with oil when you buy em to prevent rust. I got mine at Gnahl Lumber (So Cal). My rack bolts that go through the drum are stainless and all other hardware is stainless.


I figured someone would ask about my basket set up so here are some picts. I also picked up a 2x20 aluminum cake pan at a local bake shop. You can also find em online. I’ve seen people use galvanized oil pans but that has led, and I’m kind of against my kids growing a tail. :-D I used two kettle coal grates at 90 degrees. This is to hold lump better. If ya use briquettes I don’t think it’s necessary. I also have a container of used deep fry oil and a paint brush. I paint all metal after each cook with a coat of oil to keep the rust off.

http://cooksdream.com/store/llprd202.html





This has deffinatly become an addiction. What I love most is scoring higher than folks on $8000 cookers. These little things turn out (in my opinion) the best bbq. Thanks for viewing and sharing your's too. Most of all have fun!


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Thanks Mike W

Here is my version of your leg design.
Thanks for the great idea. :clap2:

This is all welded stainless steel done by my B-I-L

Two racks with 6" legs and one rack with 4-1/2" legs
 

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drum

so i found a local hardware store / mom and pop shop.. they have used drums.. open and closed top.. and no liners..

i would be getting one of the open top ones.. but coming from a store w/ no liner would they still need to be burned out?..

what would would be needed to be done for seasoning it..

thanks
 
Weber bottom

???? Anybody able to use the bottom of a Weber for a drum lid? I've now got 3 or 4 laying around from other builds & it'd be awesome to use them for more UDS. ????

THANKS!
 
so i found a local hardware store / mom and pop shop.. they have used drums.. open and closed top.. and no liners..

i would be getting one of the open top ones.. but coming from a store w/ no liner would they still need to be burned out?..

what would would be needed to be done for seasoning it..

thanks

burn it to get rid of the residuals of whatever was stored in the drum.
 
???? Anybody able to use the bottom of a Weber for a drum lid? I've now got 3 or 4 laying around from other builds & it'd be awesome to use them for more UDS. ????

THANKS!

Yes, i have.

First,my drum was an open head drum,having that large roll bead. The 22.5" weber lid did not fit. A lot of people will flatten out the lid flange ,locating and clamping said lid to drum and and reshaping (hammering)to fit the drum.

I removed the rubber seal from the lid that came with my drum and set it in place. Put tne bottom section of the weber grill on the lid and it almost fit. After flattening (hammering) the rolled edge on the kettle and checking the fit, it came out perfectly. I then scribed a circle on the drums lid to match the inside diameter of the kettle base to be cut out.

My brother helped me tack weld the pieces together and it came out great. Ground through the tack welds that held the metal cups for the legs to get rid of them and reworked the 3 daisy wheels.

Will take some pics later and post them.
 
Would it be possible to get the dimensions for this please?

Thank you .

Jim
 
Here are some pics of how i made the bottom of a 22.5" weber kettle the domed lid for my UDS.
 

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I hope I posted this right, I am new and read the entire thread. I just got my barrel and it just has the 3/4 pressure relief valve on the lid, no 2" bung. Looking for some advice here. Should I just drill 5 more evenly spaced 1/2 holes on the lid or should I do something else like step bit it out to 1" and add another 1" spaced farther apart and don't know how much it should be spaced. If you had the choice would you do the 6 holes and does that seem to make a difference? Also could not find 3 1/2 stainless steel bolts for the charcoal grate, hd and lowes crappy selection so I am gonna use the zinc ones and soak them in vinegar which if I read correctly will get rid of the zinc or at least make it safe enough to use.
 
I am having the same questions, from what I have come to understand the evenly spaced 1/2" holes in the lid might be the best way to go. it allows the heat and smoke to exit the top in a more uniform manner with even distribution, where I have heard that the single 2 inch bung hole exhaust forces air to exit in one location causing some sort of direct line draft from the intake to the exit and is prone to causing a hot spot under the exhaust and in some cases a large difference in the temperature from the center of the grate to the edge of the grate. I am going to use the evenly spaced holes in the top for my first build as per the instructions on NorCo's build. Maybe some of the more season uds pros can chime in and elaborate on their experience. I may be totally wrong in my thinking but for some reason it makes sense to me.
 
Why not Just use a big 2" or 3" hole saw? And black pipe. just my 2¢



I hope I posted this right, I am new and read the entire thread. I just got my barrel and it just has the 3/4 pressure relief valve on the lid, no 2" bung. Looking for some advice here. Should I just drill 5 more evenly spaced 1/2 holes on the lid or should I do something else like step bit it out to 1" and add another 1" spaced farther apart and don't know how much it should be spaced. If you had the choice would you do the 6 holes and does that seem to make a difference? Also could not find 3 1/2 stainless steel bolts for the charcoal grate, hd and lowes crappy selection so I am gonna use the zinc ones and soak them in vinegar which if I read correctly will get rid of the zinc or at least make it safe enough to use.
 
I really would not worry about the material on your grate bolts. You would be cremating your meat before they got hot enough to cause any problems. They will get coated in creosote anyway. You will never see them again if you put acorn nuts on them.

I prefer a smoke stack to prevent water from running into the it during a rain. Unlike a domed Weber lid - the entire lid of a barrel is lipped to collect water. That said, the flat lid will help keep your sauce warm.

Do care about what your nipples are made of - They will rust and make it impossible to remove the caps. Unless you are religious with oiling them - just use brass.

As for cleaning - use an ash pan. It is practically eliminates cleaning the bottom of the uds.
 
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