I don't believe the temp probe is broken because I know what 225 feels like, and it seemed right on. :confused:

-Bastid

You may know, but boiling water knows absolutely. Why don't you give it a run and be sure, you may have a defective or just inaccurate gauge. Also, is this a probe thermometer, because I'm sure you know, temps are higher at the center of the grate than they are at the drum wall. Just suggestions to check, maybe save yourself a lot of headache.
 
UB, your analog gauge on the outside edge of the drum that you had at grate level doesn't see the same heat as the center of the barrel. Your gauge is probably just fine.

That's why several on here use or are experimenting with diffusers. The center to outside edge heat differential is very common on UDS style smokers.

I always use a Maverick digital thermo to monitor the center of the drum heat and the meat. I rarely even pay attention to the analog gauges on the outside edge anymore as mine have only 2.5" probes. Once my drum hits 300 degrees, the center digital thermo and the analog are within a few degrees of each other.
 
UB, your analog gauge on the outside edge of the drum that you had at grate level doesn't see the same heat as the center of the barrel. Your gauge is probably just fine.

That's why several on here use or are experimenting with diffusers. The center to outside edge heat differential is very common on UDS style smokers.

I always use a Maverick digital thermo to monitor the center of the drum heat and the meat. I rarely even pay attention to the analog gauges on the outside edge anymore as mine have only 2.5" probes. Once my drum hits 300 degrees, the center digital thermo and the analog are within a few degrees of each other.
That's interesting, SmokerKing. My grate-level gauge is only 2.5 inches (just as you suspected). So if the grate level gauge is reading 225 -- what, in your experience, is the center of the drum reading?
 
That's interesting, SmokerKing. My grate-level gauge is only 2.5 inches (just as you suspected). So if the grate level gauge is reading 225 -- what, in your experience, is the center of the drum reading?

In the range of 200-300 degrees, my drum can be 30-40 degrees hotter in the center compared to the edge installed analog with the 2.5" probe. I've read where others on this forum have seen as much as 50 degrees.

My drum temps seem to balance out on both the digital and analog around 300 degrees and above.

You may want to also minimize the amount of charcoal you use, 15 lbs. is a lot.
 
From what I have read and my limited experience using my UDS most seem to see a 25 to 50°F difference from center to edge.

looks like I should refresh the page prior to posting
 
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In the range of 200-300 degrees, my drum can be 30-40 degrees hotter in the center compared to the edge installed analog with the 2.5" probe. I've read where others on this forum have seen as much as 50 degrees.

My drum temps seem to balance out on both the digital and analog around 300 degrees and above.

You may want to also minimize the amount of charcoal you use, 15 lbs. is a lot.
Well then there it is - Thanks a ton SmokerKing!

If Im reading 225 at the side, my precious brisket likely was cooking at 275 or more for all those hours. That would likely explain what went wrong.

A Maverick digital over thermometer is the ticket? Is that the best brand for such a purpose? Also, should I drill another hole at grate level for this purpose, or should I feed it in through the exhaust vent?
 
Well then there it is - Thanks a ton SmokerKing!

If Im reading 225 at the side, my precious brisket likely was cooking at 275 or more for all those hours. That would likely explain what went wrong.

A Maverick digital over thermometer is the ticket? Is that the best brand for such a purpose? Also, should I drill another hole at grate level for this purpose, or should I feed it in through the exhaust vent?

I like the Mavericks, they have held up good for me and the transmission distance hasn't been an issue. Easy to use and they have a dual probe transmitter/receiver.

I drill two holes in my UDS's, a lower one for the center probe entry and the upper for the meat. I then in install some electrical clamp connectors. Not a sure tight seal but good enough to allow probe insertion and removal fairly easily.

I fabricated a stand that holds the transmitter(s) and placed velcro on the bracket and on the back of the transmitter.


probelocations.jpg
 
Just because I posted it in another thread here it is again. It now has a Guinness beer tap installed on the stainless exhaust....















6tifwk.jpg
 
DId a second seasoning burn while I wait for my Charbroil hinged lid. Used Royal Oak Steak House Lump this time, and has no to the tiniest whiff of ammonia this time. MUCH better than last night's burn-in. Whew. Once I get that dome, I can get a handle on temps. Since my lid had no bung hole, I am propping the lid open a crack, leaving to many leaks of exhaust.

I plan to paint the charbroil lid a Wisconsin Badgers red. Any ideas for paint?
 
High temp engine paint is what most people use. You can get it at auto part stores
 
Well folks, at 1pm I went to turn the brisket and decided to start taking meat-temps. I inserted the probe, and was shiocked to see an internal temp of 165! What??? I was planning on taking the meat off at 175 around 5pm-- but how could this be? At 1pm I was almost done cooking an 11 pound brisket!-Bastid

Could of been worse. I tried smoking a turkey breast this weekend. I think it was about 3lbs - and had read...

Anyway, was expecting about 3 hours at 250. Set it up (including a meat probe) and left the house for 2 hrs. Came back to turkey jerky (poor bird was 205 internal - target was 160).

That said, everything was cooking fast this weekend. (temps were not off (I have redundant temp gauges), just reciepies were different. At least the Burgers were somewhat of a success (overcooked them too - but the recipe was great, and I don't mind if I can duplicate a quick cook on them).

Looks like turkey stew is now on the menu. Ah, but next time...
 
SmokerKing:

I'm glad to see you're perfecting UDS diffuser technology. I just had another idea to achieve more even temperatures. It is turbulence.

Your diffuser probably causes some turbulence but I was thinking about inducing turbulence mechanically with a small blower about half way down. Something like this maybe.
 
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SmokerKing,

If this works, you may actually end up with a business venture. I, foe one, do not have access to the tools necessary to create this disc. Put me down for one and tell me the cost.
 
I like the Mavericks, they have held up good for me and the transmission distance hasn't been an issue. Easy to use and they have a dual probe transmitter/receiver.

I drill two holes in my UDS's, a lower one for the center probe entry and the upper for the meat. I then in install some electrical clamp connectors. Not a sure tight seal but good enough to allow probe insertion and removal fairly easily.

I fabricated a stand that holds the transmitter(s) and placed velcro on the bracket and on the back of the transmitter.

Smoker... How close is the BBQ Therm to your cooking grate? I guess you're relying more on the digital??? I installed my therm just below the grate level. I have noticed that when you put the meat on, the coolness will affect it, so I don't worry about it that much for the first few minutes when it returns to temps close to before putting meat on. Theory being it is as close to the meat as possible, though the probe doesn't reach the middle, and we've had the whole diffuser discussion! ;)
 
SmokerKing:

I'm glad to see you're perfecting UDS diffuser technology. I just had another idea to achieve more even temperatures. It is turbulence.

Your diffuser probably causes some turbulence but I was thinking about inducing turbulence mechanically with a small blower about half way down. Something like this maybe.

Not a bad idea. I've done some experimentation with laminar and turbulent airflow with auto intakes and understand the theory and concepts as they pertain to turbo's etc. I've developed a product for Ford Powerstrokes that addressed eliminating some of the turbulent air intake issues.

I'm no braniac but when it comes to heat and thermal issues, I'm a noob. I think the turbulence could be inducted above the diffuser and several inches below the meat. Create a "swirling" convection effect as the heat rises and is exhausted. :thumb:
 
Smoker... How close is the BBQ Therm to your cooking grate? I guess you're relying more on the digital??? I installed my therm just below the grate level. I have noticed that when you put the meat on, the coolness will affect it, so I don't worry about it that much for the first few minutes when it returns to temps close to before putting meat on. Theory being it is as close to the meat as possible, though the probe doesn't reach the middle, and we've had the whole diffuser discussion! ;)

I rely totally on my digital probes. I typically smoke using the top rack, which is the very top of a 55 gal drum since I use the cone top.

I place a second rack about 6" below the top meat rack and attach one digital probe dead center of that second rack, it does not touch the grate.

I place the second probe in the meat. I read both during the cook and view the analog just for kicks. Personally, I don't see a reason to even have the 2.5" analog probes on the side except to see if they ever balance to the digitals, and a back up should the digitals fail.

I'm thinking on raising my diffuser closer to the meat. That way, the heat has less distance to collapse again to the center of the drum before being exhausted in the center of my cone top.

I'm thinking that having multiple exhaust ports in the UDS lid and using a diffuser might provide a better balanced heat through the drum and meat.

What do I know? just experimenting. :clap2:
 
Turkey Fryer Thermo

I had the same issues/concerns originally with reading temps on the outer wall of the UDS so I went to a turkey fryer around 14+ inches. It literally ends at the center of the barrel and about 1/2 inch below my bottom grate. I JB welded an electrical coupling that has the perfect clearance for the thermo and a cap when not in use. Try it out.P1030657.jpgP1030655.jpg
 
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