Ugly Drum Smoker

McGurk · May 14, 2010

If you are an inch short on the diameter, that kettle ring is going to fall right to the bottom of your drum. For fitment, flip your kettle bottom upside down and see if it will slide down the drum. If so, you may want to stick with the flat lid for now. Another option you could try is to meld the flat lid and Weber lid together, and then cut out the inside of the flat lid to have a "super-lid." I've seen it done in this thread but don't remember where.

Yes, you will need to remove that foam gasket. Use a light solvent (some say WD40 works) and soak it up good and let it sit a few hours. Remove what you can and reapply solvent. You want it all out. You can torch out any last remaining bits, but don't warp your lid by letting it get to hot.

Jiggs · May 14, 2010

Got a brand new drum. Will a good wipe down on the inside, coat with oil, and fire it up be good enough?

Also, what is the minimum clearance from grill grate to flat UDS lid to cook an average size pork butt? I don't have a kettle lid at the moment.

smokindave74 · May 14, 2010

intake vents/valves on UDS build

I am sure this is covered probably 3 or 4 times during this massive thread, but I don't feel like reading through it ALL over again.

Has anyone had any experience with using more than one ball valve? I planned on cutting three vent holes, and was going to cover 2 with magnets or use pipe nipples with caps, and use one ball valve. Any reason I could not just use 3 ball valves. I think the magnets won't "look" as nice, and I figure they might melt or get lost eventually.

I know it will cost more, but I think it would offer more control or more variety of control. Do the ball valves constrict the flow more than a full hole even when they are wide open? There must be a little head loss due to the valve.

My reasoning is that I could partially open any or all of the three and have more adjustment to counteract any wind variation, etc, if I used all ball valves.

I like to position my smoker just under the roof of my garage eves facing inside, so I can just duck out there and tend to things in case of rain, etc. If I have multiple valves I could open different ones depending on which way the wind is blowing.......

Am I over-thinking this? I just want to have ultimate flexibility so I don't have to re-build anything, if my initial config. doesn't work perfectly.

Sorry for the verbosity.....just thinking out loud here....

Thanks for any help.......

Smokindave

McGurk · May 14, 2010

Jiggs said:
Got a brand new drum. Will a good wipe down on the inside, coat with oil, and fire it up be good enough?

Not enough info. Is there a colored liner? Has it been lined otherwise? Was it a new "new one" or a refurbished "new one?" If competely fresh and unused and unlined, hose it out, wipe it dry, coat it, and season away.

Also, what is the minimum clearance from grill grate to flat UDS lid to cook an average size pork butt? I don't have a kettle lid at the moment.

Whatever you need for clearance, but most are 6 to 7" for a flat lid application.

Jiggs · May 14, 2010

smokindave - Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure somewhere in this monstrosity someone had mentioned using 3 ball valves and not getting proper air flow/best burns.

On my two drums, I use 2 intakes with caps, and one with a ball valve. I can dial that puppy right in no problem.

I've thought about going with 3 ball valves, but I've always just gone the KISS route. No mods, just a basic UDS and they work awesome.

Jiggs · May 14, 2010

McGurk said:
Not enough info. Is there a colored liner? Has it been lined otherwise? Was it a new "new one" or a refurbished "new one?" If competely fresh and unused and unlined, hose it out, wipe it dry, coat it, and season away.

Whatever you need for clearance, but most are 6 to 7" for a flat lid application.

Thanks! You answered my questions. It is new "new one", 85 gallon. Looks like I'm good to go when I bring it home next week.

6 to 7" will not be a problem. Thanks.

McGurk · May 14, 2010

I'd just use 3 nipples, and get 2 caps and 1 valve. If you don't like it, you can always buy 2 more valves and thread them on later. I think you'll just end up closing 2 of them completely once you get to your temp and adjusting on the third, though. There is no difference between a closed valve and a capped nipple.

smokindave74 said:
Am I over-thinking this? I just want to have ultimate flexibility so I don't have to re-build anything, if my initial config. doesn't work perfectly.

Rarely will your first config work "Perfectly", but usually with the tried-and-true KISS method it will work very well. NorcoRedneck has pretty much honed in on the easiest, most bulletproof, and close to the cheapest way to build one, and they work everytime when assembled correctly.

NASCARican · May 14, 2010

smokindave74 said:
I am sure this is covered probably 3 or 4 times during this massive thread, but I don't feel like reading through it ALL over again.

Has anyone had any experience with using more than one ball valve? I planned on cutting three vent holes, and was going to cover 2 with magnets or use pipe nipples with caps, and use one ball valve. Any reason I could not just use 3 ball valves. I think the magnets won't "look" as nice, and I figure they might melt or get lost eventually.

I know it will cost more, but I think it would offer more control or more variety of control. Do the ball valves constrict the flow more than a full hole even when they are wide open? There must be a little head loss due to the valve.

My reasoning is that I could partially open any or all of the three and have more adjustment to counteract any wind variation, etc, if I used all ball valves.

I like to position my smoker just under the roof of my garage eves facing inside, so I can just duck out there and tend to things in case of rain, etc. If I have multiple valves I could open different ones depending on which way the wind is blowing.......

Am I over-thinking this? I just want to have ultimate flexibility so I don't have to re-build anything, if my initial config. doesn't work perfectly.

Sorry for the verbosity.....just thinking out loud here....

Thanks for any help.......

Smokindave

I use three ball valves...there is a difference...you have full ported and half ported valves...I first started w/ half and had to open all three at times to even reach smoke temps...saw a big difference when I switched to full port...now I open one and crack a second for 225. Full port are bigger, but worth it!

smokindave74 · May 14, 2010

McGurk said:
I'd just use 3 nipples, and get 2 caps and 1 valve. If you don't like it, you can always buy 2 more valves and thread them on later. I think you'll just end up closing 2 of them completely once you get to your temp and adjusting on the third, though. There is no difference between a closed valve and a capped nipple.

Rarely will your first config work "Perfectly", but usually with the tried-and-true KISS method it will work very well. NorcoRedneck has pretty much honed in on the easiest, most bulletproof, and close to the cheapest way to build one, and they work everytime when assembled correctly.

Thanks McGurk. I can't find all of NorcoRednecks posts because I can't search the thread.....guess you have to pay money for that, but I get the general idea.

Basically open the mother wide open, start it up to get to temp, and then close down the nipples, and adjust with the ball valve for temp.

Makes sense..........just doesn't seem to me like there would be enough draft that way with only one hole open......but I guess it doesn't take much to maintain 225 with hot coals. I have been a gasser up until now with a modified Weber Genesis, and all I do there is turn the burner knob........I have an overabundance of draft on that thing......but it doesn't matter because there are no solid combustibles to keep lit.

I will try the nipples, and can always move the valve to different nipples if the winds are howling from a certain direction. Could also just set up a wind break with a cardboard box or something, if it gets unruly.

Smokindave

BigButzBBQ · May 14, 2010

Smokindave74 - I've found that with all the valve openings, chances are you can open them in a way that will work best for whatever wind you are dealing with. It is incredibly windy by my house for some reason. I took an only Kenmore gasser I had laying around, ripped the grill off of the cart and put my UDS on that, now when I'm really having wind troubles I can spin it around or move it however I need to and didn't have to invest anything extra to be able to do it.

McGurk · May 14, 2010

There is a search at the bottom of all of the pages, it looks like a google search but it is indeed for this site. The fancy one is for subscribers, but this one will work.

I found the link I was looking for that you might find interesting: Norcoredneck's "If a redneck were to build a UDS"
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43943

Learnin Querve · May 14, 2010

Pipe nipples and caps? Ball Valves? Just something else to stub your toe on or break off...

Seriously, I went with flat fridge magnets initially and they worked great, but sometimes we're a little difficult to position. After my second cook, I was in the hardware store and saw 2 packs of round magnets by the cash register. They are bigger around than a quarter, but smaller than a half dollar. I think I paid $1.50 per pack and they work great.

They cover the intake holes completely, and they're thick enough so they stand off of the surface of the drum. I can manipulate them with my foot (even wearing sandals) a little bit at a time and usually have the temp settle within about 15 minutes. My drum is a true Ugly Drum Smoker, so the exterior is rusty and the magnets still hold great.

I have an array of close nipples and ball valves in the garage; maybe on the next build.

Just an opinion from a firm believer in the KISS method...

Chris

Skidder · May 15, 2010

Learnin I'm with you on the K.I.S.S. method at least for your first build. Save the experimenting for a second build. I say go with what works. Seems the ones with questions and or problems are the ones who deviate from the tried and true methods. I understand there are many ways to make a UDS and everyone has there own ideas but if you want a cooker that really works Keep It Simple. Air,fuel and heat is all it needs.

LivnDream · May 15, 2010

has anyone ever thought of working out some kind of a group buy or a brethren discount on kettle lids from one of the kettle makers ?

Sammy_Shuford · May 15, 2010

It's a nice Saturday afternoon, low breeze, a nice day to sit in the sun and watch a drum burn!

Good news, is the liner is peeling off like paint would!

Meat Burner · May 15, 2010

smokindave74 said:
I am sure this is covered probably 3 or 4 times during this massive thread, but I don't feel like reading through it ALL over again.

Has anyone had any experience with using more than one ball valve? I planned on cutting three vent holes, and was going to cover 2 with magnets or use pipe nipples with caps, and use one ball valve. Any reason I could not just use 3 ball valves. I think the magnets won't "look" as nice, and I figure they might melt or get lost eventually.

I know it will cost more, but I think it would offer more control or more variety of control. Do the ball valves constrict the flow more than a full hole even when they are wide open? There must be a little head loss due to the valve.

My reasoning is that I could partially open any or all of the three and have more adjustment to counteract any wind variation, etc, if I used all ball valves.

I like to position my smoker just under the roof of my garage eves facing inside, so I can just duck out there and tend to things in case of rain, etc. If I have multiple valves I could open different ones depending on which way the wind is blowing.......

Am I over-thinking this? I just want to have ultimate flexibility so I don't have to re-build anything, if my initial config. doesn't work perfectly.

Sorry for the verbosity.....just thinking out loud here....

Thanks for any help.......

Smokindave

I build all mine with ball valves. It works great to help with the wind problem. I like the nice even burn I get as well. Just another way that works well. Harbor Freight usually has them for about $5 each so not a big expense. Good luck bro!

kcchiefdav · May 16, 2010

Decent Barrels

I apologize in advance for asking the same question that has been asked around here 100s of times, but I have no one else to ask...So, in the short time that I've been a member here, I've fallen in love with the UDS. A few weeks ago, I decided that I must try making one. I have come across some barrels and I wanted to run them by some of you, who are more "in the know" on these sorts of things, as to whether or not these types of barrels are gonna work for a UDS. The guy advertised them as barrels used to ship sand and aggregate which seems ok to me. They don't appear to be galvanized. So, what do you guys think, should i make the 12 dollar investment and give this thing a try or wait til I can find something more food friendly?

michaelp · May 16, 2010

kcchiefdav said:
I apologize in advance for asking the same question that has been asked around here 100s of times, but I have no one else to ask...So, in the short time that I've been a member here, I've fallen in love with the UDS. A few weeks ago, I decided that I must try making one. I have come across some barrels and I wanted to run them by some of you, who are more "in the know" on these sorts of things, as to whether or not these types of barrels are gonna work for a UDS. The guy advertised them as barrels used to ship sand and aggregate which seems ok to me. They don't appear to be galvanized. So, what do you guys think, should i make the 12 dollar investment and give this thing a try or wait til I can find something more food friendly?

If the metal is rusting on the inside, Id say they are good to go. Just give'em a good burn so if there was any dioxin or agent orange in there you'd at least burn most of it off.:thumb:

smokindave74 · May 17, 2010

Thanks for the tips and the thread link.......I might just try fridge magnets for now....seems to be the easiest way.

Here all this time I never knew that Gene Simmons was such an expert bbq cook..........

:doh:

Every hobby has their own special jargon just to confuse people.

McGurk said:
There is a search at the bottom of all of the pages, it looks like a google search but it is indeed for this site. The fancy one is for subscribers, but this one will work.

I found the link I was looking for that you might find interesting: Norcoredneck's "If a redneck were to build a UDS"
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43943

McGurk · May 18, 2010

Added some more mods to my UDS now that I know it can cook! Nothing special, but I want to do this stuff after I knew that it worked for me, but before paint. Not that I mind the ugliness it has acquired!

"New Tool Hangers and 2nd rack Thermo" Yanked some Stainless Steel bling off of a trashed Amana gasser, and modded it to make some tool hangers. IGNORE THESE TOOLS!!! I just threw them on for pix, but I don't use them. They came free with one of the webers I got. Put another thermo probe mount just below the upper rack. They are both 12" probes.

"Hangers" Not pretty (yet). S hooks on a bar for tools and junk. I also did a little more "custom lid fitting", involving a linemans pliers and a hammer. I think it's a better fit now.

"Screw post for hanging racks" I was getting sick of putting my racks on the ground when moving things around, so I just popped a hole in the side (on right side of pic) for a bolt to stick out of. Nothing too fancy.

I am still looking into options for some sort of side table(s) that I'll be happy with. Then it's strip, grind, prime, paint, and re-assemble!

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