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Found a drum...Need help

BobBrisket

BobBrisket

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uds001.jpg

My trusty helper. I caught him cross eyed and ear bent. He actually loosened the bolt all on his own with just a little help.
uds002.jpg

The drum and the new spare kettle parts I have.
uds003.jpg

I took the used lid and bottom from my grill and replaced old with new. Now I have a semi new grill and I'll use the old lid and bottom on the UDS.
uds004.jpg

I can't remember who's the expert at making the UDS with kettle lids and bottom flanges. Will the expert please let me know what to do here. The kettle lid does not fit the drum itself snuggly. I will need to cut the bowl and make a flange. But as you can see if i set the bowl in the drum, it will almost fall right in once I cut off the handle. I think I'm going to need to put the drum lid and band back on and then cut the drum lid out in order to allow the kettle flange to sit up a little higher and receive the lid properly. I hope you guys know what I mean.

uds005.jpg

I was at HD and was going to buy the coal grate, screws and chit but I decided to go home and see how cheap I could make this thing. Well I wont' need bolts to hold up the grate. I took some conduit hooks and flattened them out. They will get a metal screw to hold them in place and then a spot weld to keep them there.
The drum has some rust, but a good burn, then a good grinding will take care of it. I didn't want to use the kettle lid, but I kinda had to because the two screw caps on the drum lid are made of plastic so the lid is sorta useless. I check back to see what you guys have recommended.
Thanks
 
I didn't want to use the kettle lid, but I kinda had to because the two screw caps on the drum lid are made of plastic so the lid is sorta useless.
Click to expand...

You can pick up pipe plugs the right size at the box stores.
 
Bob if needed I can send you as many of those metal caps to fit that lid as you want in both sizes. The postal service is a bit s l o w but they will get there.
 
Well I'm no expert, but I've cut up 8 kettles for the "flange" and none of the open top drums fit all that securely, but none of them fall into the drum. I have put High-temp silicone on a couple, but they are mostly for holding the lid on without them teetering on the lip of the drum. Take a look at the fifth picture in this build and you can see how it sets.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=383013&postcount=211
 
My lid wouldn't sit on the lip properly either, but I just took my grinder and thinned it down. Now I have a nice tight fit.
 
Just a heads up, those hooks you are using look qalvanized or zink plated.
 
Thanks fellas.
I forgot that by using the kettle lid I could add a second grate. Now I don't feel so bad about using it afterall. Thanks for the offers on the screw caps though.
Brian..I think you were the one who had PM'd me some info. In the 9th pic where both lids are hanging on the drum I can barely see what looks like two screws in the flange. Do you screw the flange into the drum so it sits higher? I guess I need to grind the handle off and just go from there.
Norco--The bag that those hooks came in don't say either zinc or galvanized. Anyone know for sure if they are?

I'm going to yhe Outlaws today. My FIL has some scrap metal and expando I can use. Guys, is it safe to use rebar and angle iron? Is there such a thing as galvanized rebar or AI?
 
BobBrisket said:
Thanks fellas.
I forgot that by using the kettle lid I could add a second grate. Now I don't feel so bad about using it afterall. Thanks for the offers on the screw caps though.
Brian..I think you were the one who had PM'd me some info. In the 9th pic where both lids are hanging on the drum I can barely see what looks like two screws in the flange. Do you screw the flange into the drum so it sits higher? I guess I need to grind the handle off and just go from there.
Norco--The bag that those hooks came in don't say either zinc or galvanized. Anyone know for sure if they are?

I'm going to yhe Outlaws today. My FIL has some scrap metal and expando I can use. Guys, is it safe to use rebar and angle iron? Is there such a thing as galvanized rebar or AI?
Click to expand...

If you have some muratic acid (pool acid) dip it in and it will strip the coating off. or you can heat up with torch (avoid fumes) and then wire brush it off. Remember if it won't rust it is coated or plated.
 
Use a hammer and sledgehammer to back it up to smash the lip flat. This should allow your lid to sit securely. As far as the kettle bottom goes, you could drill a chitload of holes in it to allow airflow.

BTW- Your helper would be much more effective with a 'Stros hat.
 
I tried to drive a self tapping screw through the enamel and it just laughed at me. Do you guys use a drill bit instead?

A Stro's cap? I don;t think so! That would slow down production!!
 
BobBrisket said:
I tried to drive a self tapping screw through the enamel and it just laughed at me. Do you guys use a drill bit instead?

A Stro's cap? I don;t think so! That would slow down production!!
Click to expand...
Use a center punch to chip off the enamel.
 
Will do. I'm off to the Outlaws. To grind and weld metal.

How was the hunt Shane?
Talk to ya'll tonight.
 
They are plentyful Bob so just shoot me a PM with your address if you ever need them. There is no charge for the service or parts to a brother. lol
 
uds2003.jpg

Cut the lid out and left lip only.


uds2002.jpg

Cut out flange and left original grate hooks for top UDS shelf. I'll mount hooks for the lower shelf unde the flange.

uds2004.jpg

Here's the lid on top of kettle flange that is sitting in the lid lip.

uds2005.jpg


Put the band back on and it makes for a tight fit.
uds2007.jpg

Fire basket almost done. Need to square it and add the bottom. Long arse day. Thanks again Brothers.
 
Great work. We're gonna try this. Our kettle lid is an off brand lid, and doesn't fit all that well.
 
BobBrisket said:
Thanks fellas.
I forgot that by using the kettle lid I could add a second grate. Now I don't feel so bad about using it afterall. Thanks for the offers on the screw caps though.
Brian..I think you were the one who had PM'd me some info. In the 9th pic where both lids are hanging on the drum I can barely see what looks like two screws in the flange. Do you screw the flange into the drum so it sits higher? I guess I need to grind the handle off and just go from there.
Norco--The bag that those hooks came in don't say either zinc or galvanized. Anyone know for sure if they are?

I'm going to yhe Outlaws today. My FIL has some scrap metal and expando I can use. Guys, is it safe to use rebar and angle iron? Is there such a thing as galvanized rebar or AI?
Click to expand...


The holes in the flange are from the handle welds. I leave the flange in the open drums loose so if I want to use the drum lid I just remove it.
Now the closed drums I take one end off with an air chisel and it leaves just enough of an edge that the flange is on tight.


100_2082.jpg


100_2083.jpg


100_2246.jpg


If you have that big of a gap with the flange and drum, you might want to think about just using the drum lid or build it up with some stove gasket.

The 3 lids are Weber clones and Happy Cookers, still work though!
 
I'm a bit tired and got a decent farmer's tan. We were at about 79*. It was a great day. The band is only holding the lip from the drum lid. The kettle flange is on loose so I can easily remove it if I need to. Brian, I noticed that the drums you use have a flat lip, mine had a rounded lip on the barrel. THe rounded lip allowed the flange to sit lower and the lid didn't really sit on the flange at all. With the lid lip, it raised the flange up and allowed the lid to rest on it. The band then made for a tighter seal all around.
I was going to buy a step drill bit on Saturday at HD, but when I saw the price I was shocked............$48! For one bit. HF has a two bit set for about $20. I'll be getting the bits next, making the bottom holes, and doing a burn.
My basket isn't square so I need to fix one end so that it's square and will be a better fit for the bottom that I need to weld to it.
I can't wait to finish this project.
Brian, can you give me some info on those caps? Size, etc, where would I find them at the hardware store and hole big a hole do you drill in the drum for the caps.
 
I'm contemplating this basket design....

2291686563_7360755fbd.jpg


You guys like my Artist's Rendition? Yeah, I'm bored!!

I plan to attach a metal rod, which also will serve as a handle for pulling out and dropping in the basket, in the middle of the basket. The rod will extend to just below the 2nd grate. The idea is that I will be able to tap the handle/rod with some tongs or whatever and shake any excess ash loose without having to kick the barrel if the temps begin to drop. What do you guys think?
 
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