So here's the first step in my first barrell build. Burned all the crap out of it today, will hit it in and out with wire brush and sanding pads. Will post more pics along the way.
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Tried a full burn this this weekend. (prior burns needed an open valve and an open nipple to get temp).

I started the burn with a new bag of lump (got a little crazy with the weed burner - was in a rush). While seasoning about 3/4 of a goat, I struggled to get the temp down, then back up. Temp was just right - opened my valve and nipple, tossed on the ATB's and goat and went in for a nap...

woke up-way too hot (closed valve), cooked breakfast-more way too hot (closed nipple open valve), ate breakfast-damn-still too hot (2/3 valve), ate atb's-temp holding great. Wonder how the goat is-(overdone by 20 degrees - and 3hrs ahead of schedule).

Ran inside, got tray came out to the beginnings of a storm, got the goat in before the downpour hit. Guess the temps were just about right after all. Goat was salvageable and I was dry.

Conclusion - new bag of lump was the fix. I guess even my last sealed back had gotten too damp and was messing up my temps in the prior runs.

Will try to paint and post pics soon.

My uds is still a work in process - but am getting closer to pictures. My fire basket is 12"x48" of expanded mesh, with a 14" diameter expanded mesh grate 3" from the bottom.

Initially I used the 18" el cheapo table top grill for an an ash pan. It worked, but I felt it was keeping my temperature down. I switched to a 16" commercial pizzia pan this weekend. It is much thicker/stronger than the el cheapo grill.

Temp was marginally better - but was working with minimal charcoal (only had sausage and abt's on the grill. Will run a full test again next smoking.

Anyway, I really liked the Acemart pizzia pan - it was about $8 and about 3/32 thick.
 
keeping caps from rusting on

does just soaking the nipples with oil keep them from rusting on, paint does not seem to work for chit. I keep mine out side in the weather. This seems to only be a problem cause i use locknuts instead of welding my nipples on, thus causing them to lossen when tring to remove a rusted on cap.
thanks
 
I coat the threads with a light coat of White Lithium grease.
Seems to work for me.

Weiser
does just soaking the nipples with oil keep them from rusting on, paint does not seem to work for chit. I keep mine out side in the weather. This seems to only be a problem cause i use locknuts instead of welding my nipples on, thus causing them to lossen when tring to remove a rusted on cap.
thanks
 
The ash is caustic to a point. The paint will gum up. Vaseline occasionally on threads. Keep them lubed.
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I was thinking of switching to galv. caps. I feel they would not get hot enough to poison, but i think the rust on the nipples would still affect performance. Ya think?
 
Rusty nipple repair guide

does just soaking the nipples with oil keep them from rusting on, paint does not seem to work for chit. I keep mine out side in the weather. This seems to only be a problem cause i use locknuts instead of welding my nipples on, thus causing them to lossen when tring to remove a rusted on cap.
thanks

No more rusty nipples.
Magnets are your friend!
 

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Bubba- the brethren seem to want something more than magnets and go to all the trouble of three holes and a bunch of galvinized or zinc coated hardware for their UDS. All the barrels I do for people are going out with magnets and the new owners love them. When you have one hole the fire is so easy to control whether your runnin' at 400 or idling along at 200 its all there on one hole. I use speaker magnets as I can bump them with my toe to adjust the temp. The only addition I make to my barrels is I run a 1 1/2" pipe to the centre of my barrel(under the centre of my charcoal basket) I don't know why but with the air drawing from the centre I never seem to experience a need to shake my basket during a cook.
I do love reading this to see new ideas from the brethren. That Tyler with his powder coating sent my mind whirling LOL!!
 
Mark- is that an ash pan in the third photo? Do you burn lump? and do you need to give the barrel a rattle to clear the ash during an overnighter?
I've drawn your method on a barrel but I never carried thru because I didn't have a handle on the ashpan or how to adjust the temps.
 
LOL Matt- not the magnet but possibly you had a rubber or plastic coating? I don't have high temp paint and I've been lucky enough not to melt paint or accessories but I don't purposely go over 400 degrees.
 
Mark- is that an ash pan in the third photo? Do you burn lump? and do you need to give the barrel a rattle to clear the ash during an overnighter?
I've drawn your method on a barrel but I never carried thru because I didn't have a handle on the ashpan or how to adjust the temps.

The 3rd picture is what I call the intake air diffuser. I spreads out the intake air evenly and it keeps any hot embers from falling through the intake vent.

On top of the intake air diffuser sits a short internal drum and my basket sits in that (see pic below). No picture of my basket but it's pretty standard: expanded steel lath mounted to an 18" Weber charcoal grate.
 
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PS: h2oloo

I only burn sticks & chunked wood. The handle on the square plate mounted to the bottom of my drum is moved to adjust intake air. Temperatures react nearly instantly.
 
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