Restoring a 1987 Weber Kettle

DaveMW

DaveMW

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I was just given an old Weber kettle (3 daisy wheels on bottom) and was looking to restore it.

Several questions come to mind if anyone can provide answers as I am a newbie at this.
1) Can't I prep the kettle (clean, sand etc) and just repaint the entire kettle with high temp (Rustoleum 1200 degree) paint?
2) Should I even try the trouble of restoring the bottom parts (some rust and dings in these parts) or should I just buy the $23 kit for the bottom that gives you everything from the kettle down?
I plan on takling it all apart & cleaning etc. I will replace the rusted screws and was planning on sanding the handles and go with something that will show off teh wood contrasted against the black kettle. All input & thoughts welcome.
 

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As I understand it, the webers are not just painted.. but have a porcelain enamel.
So sanding it would take off that coating.
 
DaveMW said:
I was just given an old Weber kettle (3 daisy wheels on bottom) and was looking to restore it.

Several questions come to mind if anyone can provide answers as I am a newbie at this.
1) Can't I prep the kettle (clean, sand etc) and just repaint the entire kettle with high temp (Rustoleum 1200 degree) paint? SwamprB recommends sanding the area that has lost the porcelain, mask off as close as you can to the non-porcelain surface and just paint that area.
2) Should I even try the trouble of restoring the bottom parts (some rust and dings in these parts) or should I just buy the $23 kit for the bottom that gives you everything from the kettle down? I have re-used the lower vents in previous restorations. Drill or grind the rivets out and replace with stainless machine screws, washers and jam nuts.
I plan on takling it all apart & cleaning etc. I will replace the rusted screws and was planning on sanding the handles and go with something that will show off teh wood contrasted against the black kettle. Sand the handles until you get the color you want (the Weber logo will likely go away) and treat with teak oil (I get it at Home Depot) All input & thoughts welcome.
Click to expand...
If any of the handles are coming loose where welded to the body, I drill those and fasten with the stainless hardware mentioned above.

Good luck, enjoy the kettle!
 
Where is edgewood ky?
I would hose off the grill and light a chimney.
That grill looks like it is ready and willing.
Rub the handles with a little oil and let her go.
jon
 
Please keep us posted Dave. I've recently scored a 1991 N Kettle. The top of mine is completely faded and looks gray. I'm not sure it I should paint it or let it ride. If you paint yours please give an update.

I do need some wooden handles though. If you or anyone else has some extra wooden handles please let me know.
 
Good luck with the restore. I just got one like yours today thinking I could use it for my UDS but, I am having second thoughts on that. I restored an 18.5" that came out great, so I may restore the 22.5" that I got today too instead of using it for my UDS.
 
Thanks

Thanks for all the info.

SmiterQ - thanks for telling me that, I was unaware. That explains why SwamprB paints only the damaged areas.

Harbormaster - thanks for the wealth of information.\

Jonboy - Edgewood, KY is 10 miles south of Cincinnati, OH

I will keep updating and posting photos as this project progresses. What started as a free grill has turned in to a fun project. I am excited to start taking it apart and cleaning it up. I am still a bit nervous about sanding down those spots and only painting the repaired areas and getting it to all blend properly. I hope I do it justice when I am done.
 
i probably overdo things. i take the whole thing apart and attack everything with 0000 steel wool. i clean up everything with it including the legs and vents. i replace all hardware with ss. i clean the porcelain that way also. some just won't become shinny anymore but that just ads caracter. i just lightly sand the wood handles and then treat them with a few coats of mineral oil.
 
mbshop: how do the vents clean up? Can I get them looking pretty clean with that method?
 
DaveMW said:
Harbormaster - thanks for the wealth of information.
Click to expand...
You are most welcome!

DaveMW said:
mbshop: how do the vents clean up? Can I get them looking pretty clean with that method?
Click to expand...
I'll answer that. Yes, you will. I have also found that using Greased Lightning cleaner with a green ScotchBrite pad does a great job of cleaning the vents as well. The Greased Lightning works real well at getting rid of accumulated goo between the vent and body of the grill too.
Meant to add this gem first time around: If the vents are misshaped a little, place the vents on top of an open cup, or something just a little smaller in diameter than the vent and gently press on the center of the vent straight down into the cup. This will get it's concave shape back. If you go a little too far, that's OK since when you reattach the vent with the bolt and jam nut and will be able to control the tightness right where you want it.
 
Are you sure that is a Weber? I have one like that but I don't think it is a Weber. I don't think Weber used an indent molded into the bottom half to hold the grate in position. Can others look closely at his picture and verify? I will be glad if I actually do have a Weber as it was just given to me and is immaculate.
 
scottfry11: My kettle does have an indent for the grate. I can share with you what I have been told and what I have read online as those are my only sources of info thus far. Hopefully someone on here with more Weber knowledge than I can verify or debunk that info. The grill came from my mother in law where it has sat in her basement for years. She said it doesn't say Weber on the grill (and it doesn't) but the orginal box said Weber and she was told when she purchased it that it was a "second" so sold without logos. The vent has a "J" stamped on it and it looks like a Weber (except I will now check out this indent you noticed - thank you). Anyway I read online that Sears sold grills for Weber as did other stores that sold grill under the dept. store brand but they were made by Weber. Hopefully all that info I was basing my claim on is true as I would love to add this 22.5" to my squad.
 
I think I have the exact same grill. It is very sturdy and looks to be Weber quality. I do not have a stamp on the lid vent, don't think so anyway. I will look again. I was wondering what kind of grill it was but did not post the pic. Hopefully more info will come to light. I just checked and mine has the "J" stamp on the vent too.
 
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I think the older, BBQ Kettle Webers used the intent - the current model Smokey Joe's and the Smokey Joe Platinum model also used an indent. Weber did make kettles for sale under the Sears name and maybe others. This grill, I would say, definitely was manufactured by Weber even if it wasn't sold under the Weber name. I have one just like it, and about the same age. The restoration hints - sand and touch up only the chipped and rusted portions, drill out the rusted rivets and re-use the vents, etc. - are dead on. You may have to drill and machine screw or nut and bolt the handle on top - mine is weak there as well and I'll probably do that procedure the next time I'm at the lake where the grill lives. Good luck and have a blast doing the restore and then cooking on the grill. They are amazing creations with incredible longevity.

Pat
 
Harbormaster - thanks yet again. If its okay I may reach out for input along the way.

scottfry11 - lets hope that we both have a "find".
 
i think the early webers had that indent. as to the wheels i always take them off and get the junk off with cleaners and then finish them off with the 0000 steel wool. i kinda get anal about it. i even clean up, finish and almost polish up the ash catcher. i always treat the raw aluminum with a very light treatment of pam. seems to be holding up so far. i treated one of my kettle legs with a high temp clear paint. i'll see how that comes out as time goes by.
 
Guys - again, thanks for all the GREAT info and friendly assistance. Anyone have opinion on paint? I see that Swamprb uses Dupli-Color Engine paint with Ceramic. Anyone know if this is what should be used or if it is just was what he picked up? Want to get the right stuff.
 
PFSmith - Just out of curiosity, you stress touching up just those parts that are in need of repair; I am assuming this is because there is trouble getting paint to adhere to the entire grill? Painting all of it would provide a more consitant look but I am betting you have reasons for only doing touch ups & would love to hear what you have already learned on this subject. Thanks again!
 
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