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Sandblasted UDS Drum

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Bham_egger

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Got my drum back from the sandblasted. Took it there to have the red liner removed. It now has a somewhat roughed up texture from the blasting. Is this ok? Why is my next step. I was going to spray it down with cooking oil to keep the rust at bay until I can do some long burns? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Before

ajebeqa9.jpg


After

usyguhyv.jpg
 

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It's good, just get a good coating of oil on it as you're planning on doing.

What did they charge you for the sandblasting?
 
Keep oiled and assemble. No need for burn ins or whatever. Just clean, oil and cook. Steve.
 
Bham_egger said:
Do I need to burn to remove the paint on the outside? I kinda want to hit it with hi temp paint.
Click to expand...

Yes. Burn it out till outside paint flakes off. Wash. Then rattle can with high temp paint. I usually use 2 or 3 pallets for burnout. Some businesses will give them to you. I get mine free from the local tractor supply store.

And no, you don't HAVE to do this. But you would much rather deal with it now, than you would later. Imagine trying to wire brush the old paint off, and repaint, with an already seasoned drum. Paint chips and dust all in your seasoning? At that point you WOULD have to burn it out and re-wash. :wink:
 
Just to elaborate a bit....

You could leave the outside paint on, maybe it'll flake off, maybe it won't. In my experience it will.

Plus the non-high temp paint might release fumes when it's heated, then it again maybe it won't. Remember it wasn't originally intended to be heated up a few hundred degrees.

Rattle can with high temp. Then there will be no peeling issues. There'll be no possible health issues. Plus a uds just looks right flat black!
 
I don't burn paint off with heat for many reasons. First, I build several and don't see the need to waste all that time and fuel, second is it hardens up the temper quicky. In my design there are enough holes to drill,it's not worth the drill bits. Third, I learned at a very early age how to use my hands and some sandpaper. Why they even make electric ones!(sanders) Takes minutes is all. All the units I build are sandblasted with light type media and are powdercoated for extra durability and looks. We can get impressive one step metalflakes or candy looks from the powder. I was getting two to three years durability on just paint when stored outside and repainting yearly. That was the main reason I switched to powder. Steve.
 
ssbbqguy said:
I don't burn paint off with heat for many reasons. First, I build several and don't see the need to waste all that time and fuel, second is it hardens up the temper quicky. In my design there are enough holes to drill,it's not worth the drill bits. Third, I learned at a very early age how to use my hands and some sandpaper. Why they even make electric ones!(sanders) Takes minutes is all. All the units I build are sandblasted with light type media and are powdercoated for extra durability and looks. We can get impressive one step metalflakes or candy looks from the powder. I was getting two to three years durability on just paint when stored outside and repainting yearly. That was the main reason I switched to powder. Steve.
Click to expand...

Sorry if this is a dumb question but when you powder-coat do you just do the outside or do you do the entire drum?
 
Whenever I get a new barrel, first thing I do is burn it out. We do it at night, out in the field. My kids are 3 & 4 yrs old and they love it when I burn one out. They run around and play. They have a blast!
 
A weed burner and propane is the way I go. Takes care of the inside and paint outside. Wash with soapy water and you're in business.
 
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Not a dumb question. Just the outside, bare metal with oil for the inside. Even though there are coatings that withstand heat quite well, were not wanting to add anything that would gas off any substance inside the cooking chamber at all. Just moist, smoky heated air. Our coater makes three to four passes, which adds material to double the thickness of the barrels. Steve
 
ssbbqguy said:
Not a dumb question. Just the outside, bare metal with oil for the inside. Even though there are coatings that withstand heat quite well, were not wanting to add anything that would gas off any substance inside the cooking chamber at all. Just moist, smoky heated air. Our coater makes three to four passes, which adds material to double the thickness of the barrels. Steve
Click to expand...

Wonder if the powder coating helps insulate it? You'd think it would. Steve if you don't mind, what kind of price might a fellow be looking at to have one powder coated?
 
I do large volumes so my discounted rates wouldn't be similar. I would think one , two or three might be blasted for $15.00 to $40.00 and powder coating might be $60.00 to $85.00. I would think in most parts of the country one can find blasting easier than thought. Try Monument companies that blast images in headstones. They and many other businesses will fill their time with hourly work, along with actual blast companies. Two 55gallon lids, both sides the other day cost $10.00 here in the midwest. I might add we use standard temperature powder rather than high heat. We also use firebricks in our design. The standard should be fine up to 350 to 400 degrees, and then switch to high heat type. As far as insulation goes, there are other types of coatings that will have insulation properties. Very expensive, mainly because they work. I used them over 30 years in my racing career.I don't really justify the cost for use in smokers. That's one of the reasons I use firebricks in every smoker made here. Also we've had no good experience with soda blasting. Couldn't get anything to stick after many types of prep. Steve.
 
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