Lone Star Grillz Vertical Insulated Cabinet Smoker-For the new Owner

First comp this weekend. With the bigger wheels, I hope its easy to move in and out. I will bring some plywood in case it rains and the ground gets soft. Would be nice to have super wide tires, but I don't think it'll work with this smoker too well.
 
My smoker does get warm towards the front of the smoker where the door is at. Back is usually really cool.
 
J15491 said:
I understand I can not have my cake and ear it too I'm going to have to sacrifice mobility for an insulted smoker due to all the materials used. Although, I have noticed the LSG insulated mounted on a small jet ski trailer, that was interesting.
Click to expand...
My plan to move the LSG (either one) the couple times a year that might be necessary is to rent a U-Haul cargo trailer and use a come-along to ratchet it up the ramp. I'll get LSG to build mine with D-rings to use with tie-downs.

If you're using it primarily for comps, I'm sure Chris would be happy to build yours onto a trailer.
 
DaveAlvarado said:
Quick question for you guys, how hot does the outside of the smoker get when it's running? Is it safe to touch/bump into? I'm really going back and forth between one of these and a LSG vertical offset. It's partly a question of stick burning vs. charcoal burning, but there's also the consideration that when I fire up the smoker, there tends to be a party, or at least a family or two coming over. I don't want a kid or a dog getting burned if I can help it.
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In the hot sun the top of the cooker is hot but you can leave your hand on it without any problem. On an overcast day the top and sides are warm but not hot. I set my Guru on top of the cooker and usually put a ZipLoc bag around it in case of rain - no problem.
 
For those who are using the Guru, are you using it on the Ball Valve or on the other portal? If the other non-ball valve, what adapter do you need for the Guru fan?
 
I ordered mine with 2 ball valves, and have the Guru on the second ball valve using the 2" adapter.

I would call Lone Star Grillz to see your options. Most people I see putting the adapter on the ball valve.
 
ggee6688 said:
First comp this weekend. With the bigger wheels, I hope its easy to move in and out. I will bring some plywood in case it rains and the ground gets soft. Would be nice to have super wide tires, but I don't think it'll work with this smoker too well.
Click to expand...

How do you feel your LSG insulated performs in comps?
 
GrillsGoneWild said:
Chris sent me the answer. It is a 2" ball valve adapter that is needed on the non-ball valve pipe.
Click to expand...

For the non ball valve pipe you will need the 2'' ball valve adapter and also a 2'' coupling (the coupling you will need to order off the web or possibly pick up at a hardware store) both the pipe on the smoker and the 2'' ball valve adapter have male threads so the female coupling will connect the two.

Thanks
Chris
 
LSG Vault

I have a 2 month old LSG Vault with the BBQ Guru. Guru has 6ft leads and the 25CFM. Vault has the 4 d-rings. I have it for sale for 2600.
I love the vault, it is a work horse, I have used it in a comp and ended up 4th overall out of 27. It was really the first time I cooked on it. It has 3 cooks on it.
I loved the fact that I would wake up at night and temp was holding at 226, all night long....I actually got some sleep at a comp.
Im located in Central Texas if interested.
Its not working with my Comp set up that I have right now. But in a couple of years when I go into custom cooking Im getting another one.
Email me at buckinggoodbbq@gmail.com
 
Chris, just some ideas for some future add on features.

Stainless steel racks

I'm not sure how possible this one would be due to the weight of the item, but a kit for guys to take their casters off and mount to a trailer if they wanted to make a trailer set up in the future.
 
Militant83 said:
Chris, just some ideas for some future add on features.

Stainless steel racks

I'm not sure how possible this one would be due to the weight of the item, but a kit for guys to take their casters off and mount to a trailer if they wanted to make a trailer set up in the future.
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We already offer Stainless steel grates the charge is $0.26/ square inch. As of about a month ago we stopped welding on the wheels and instead blot them all on not just for the reason you mentioned but also for built in applications as well as future maintenance.

Thanks
Chris
 
lonestargrillz said:
We already offer Stainless steel grates the charge is $0.26/ square inch. As of about a month ago we stopped welding on the wheels and instead blot them all on not just for the reason you mentioned but also for built in applications as well as future maintenance.

Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...

Chris if one was wanting to mount their unit on a trailer without having it built that way from you guys. How would you recommend doing it?
 
Militant83 said:
Chris if one was wanting to mount their unit on a trailer without having it built that way from you guys. How would you recommend doing it?
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I would think you would have whoever built the trailer to make a platform/legs that you would attach the cooker where the legs bolted on by using bolts or welding on.
 
GrillsGoneWild said:
I would think you would have whoever built the trailer to make a platform/legs that you would attach the cooker where the legs bolted on by using bolts or welding on.
Click to expand...

That's my thinking as well, but I don't always like to assume when dealing with an item of that size and weight. And some guys make trailers of their own out of common trailers that you can get from places like tractor supply or other farm implement stores.
 
Militant83 said:
Chris if one was wanting to mount their unit on a trailer without having it built that way from you guys. How would you recommend doing it?
Click to expand...

We have done a lot like your describing, it can be bolted, welded, strapped down with the tie down rings, special base built for it, etc. Give us a call and we can work out the details to fit your situation.

Thanks
Chris
 
Cleaning tips

I have been following Chris's (from lone star grillz) tips on cleaning....

I let the coals burn themselves out (not much left after 24 hour burn) and in turn dry out the water pan. I empty out the ashes, scrape the bottom (fire side) of the water pan then, scrape the inside of the water pan and rinse it out with hot water. I brush excess build up off the grates, then spray the whole pit down with Pam for storage until the next cook. The stainless is pain to keep clean :)

How are you guys cleaning out your pits? Looking for faster or more efficient ways...
 
I did my first comp this weekend. Smoker did great. I used 20lbs of KBB with Cherry wood for the whole 24 hours of cook time. It cooked all my meats but will need to work on my chicken. We wound up 40th overall out of 185 teams and got a 3rd in brisket. My smoker was a bear tô move with a couple people on a trailer. Wish the wheels were a bit wider. I also wish there is a door stopper. Right now the stainless has gouged into the steel corner. Any ideas. I'll have to fix the paint this weekend. But it smokes great.
 
darkoozy said:
I have been following Chris's (from lone star grillz) tips on cleaning....

I let the coals burn themselves out (not much left after 24 hour burn) and in turn dry out the water pan. I empty out the ashes, scrape the bottom (fire side) of the water pan then, scrape the inside of the water pan and rinse it out with hot water. I brush excess build up off the grates, then spray the whole pit down with Pam for storage until the next cook. The stainless is pain to keep clean :)

How are you guys cleaning out your pits? Looking for faster or more efficient ways...
Click to expand...

I cook dry now and able to keep it cleaner. I use two pans that sit above the fire pan to collect drippings. Then I just scrape the pan with am old ice scrapper, re oil, and Windex the stainless. Boom. Clean. 30 minutes
 
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