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motley que said:
After about 2 hours, then again around 4 hours.
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
After about 2 hours, then again around 4 hours.
Bigmista
somebody shut me the fark up.
I cant remember flipping...
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
Thirdeye, noticed your cooking grate looks as clean as the new one I have in my garage. What do you use to clean it?
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Norcoredneck said:
Those are the Weber grates, they have that bright finish anyway. It was fairly new in that picture, but I spray them with pam and then wipe them down at the end of the cook when still warm.
swamprb
somebody shut me the fark up.
Mista-Are you a mopper or spritzer?Bigmista said:
Bigmista
somebody shut me the fark up.
swamprb said:
A spritzer when I wrap. Otherwise, I leave em alone.
Smokin Gator
Babbling Farker
FYI... my brother got a Weber Kettle lid by calling Weber directly. I think he said it was $57 or something like that.
ModelMaker
Quintessential Chatty Farker
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I don't know what the difference is but when I pull the lid on my drum the temp always drops then climbs back up. All most all you guys plus the BDS site say the temp spikes when you remove the lid.
The only difference on mine is a door for loading the firebox, but Mistas' drum has a door.
Mista does your temp go up or down?
ModelMaker
The only difference on mine is a door for loading the firebox, but Mistas' drum has a door.
Mista does your temp go up or down?
ModelMaker
Smokin Gator
Babbling Farker
ModelMaker said:
Mine does drop while the top is off if that is what you mean. However, when I put it back on I found I get a big spike unless I choked the fire for a few minutes before I opened the lid.
Are you saying that after you put the top back on your temp still drops?
brdbbq
Quintessential Chatty Farker
What type of businees are you all finding drums at ?
swamprb
somebody shut me the fark up.
Version 1 has 4 Weber daisy wheel vents with 3/4" holes and an 18.5" kettle bottom for coals (think BGE) and I had much better drafting and the temps did not really fluctuate that much when I opened the lid and it steadily cruised at 250-275* for over 11hrs. It's a 35" drum.
#2 is a 38" 2 rack clone and I fought the temps every time I turned the ribs. I'm going to tweak it a little and keep see what develops. I put an ad on Craigslist and found a guy that deals in Bee pollen and Echinacea has a supply of unlined food grade drums. $20 each delivered!
Love that smell!
#2 is a 38" 2 rack clone and I fought the temps every time I turned the ribs. I'm going to tweak it a little and keep see what develops. I put an ad on Craigslist and found a guy that deals in Bee pollen and Echinacea has a supply of unlined food grade drums. $20 each delivered!
Love that smell!
Smokin Gator
Babbling Farker
brdbbq said:
I found mine at an industrial machine repair shop. They get mineral oil in the drums. Other places to try: automotive repair shops, recycle centers, scrap metal dealers
jgh1204
Babbling Farker
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The brethren microwave kicks butt again. Did 1 rack of spares and 4 slabs of beef ribs. 3 hours. Held 220 steady the entire time.
swamprb
somebody shut me the fark up.
2 small briskets getting dusted for Sunday on ol' Ugly!
P
Piedmont
Guest
2nd time
Completed a second Q on my drum and results are same as first time, excellant!
Cooked two slabs, great taste and never touch them until they are done!
Completed a second Q on my drum and results are same as first time, excellant!
Cooked two slabs, great taste and never touch them until they are done!
Mo-Dave
Quintessential Chatty Farker
burn off
I have built a couple of these and they work great. I went to a muffler shop and had them bend a 2 in pipe with a 5 or 6 in end that I welded to the berrel and about a 15 in section pointing up with a plastic ball valave on that. The plastic will not melt from the heat and they are much cheaper than the metal ones. I have a weber 22 in led that fits good for my top. If you want to use a weber lid be sure to take it with you and get a good fit when looking for the barrel, you will be amazed at the slight differents in size.
Anyway I wanted to say I use my weed burner to burn off the outside paint and at the same time I am doing that it will burn off the inside coating as well. The weed burner also can't be beat for lighting the charcoal but you have to take the basket out of the barrel or the flame will blow out. I still burn some wood in it before cooking coated with oil to season it.
Dave
ThomEmery said:
I have built a couple of these and they work great. I went to a muffler shop and had them bend a 2 in pipe with a 5 or 6 in end that I welded to the berrel and about a 15 in section pointing up with a plastic ball valave on that. The plastic will not melt from the heat and they are much cheaper than the metal ones. I have a weber 22 in led that fits good for my top. If you want to use a weber lid be sure to take it with you and get a good fit when looking for the barrel, you will be amazed at the slight differents in size.
Anyway I wanted to say I use my weed burner to burn off the outside paint and at the same time I am doing that it will burn off the inside coating as well. The weed burner also can't be beat for lighting the charcoal but you have to take the basket out of the barrel or the flame will blow out. I still burn some wood in it before cooking coated with oil to season it.
Dave
Blutch
Full Fledged Farker
Mo, I'm not following you on the pipe thing.. do you have any pics?
Also, you have to light the charcoal outside of the drum? If so, you light it in the basket then after it catches you somehow place it in the barrel? I'm missing something I think.
Thanks
B
Also, you have to light the charcoal outside of the drum? If so, you light it in the basket then after it catches you somehow place it in the barrel? I'm missing something I think.
Thanks
B
swamprb
somebody shut me the fark up.
Yeah-I don't get how you light the basket outside, how do you get it in the drum w/o getting 3rd degree burns? I once tried to do a Minion start, but trying to dump a flamin' chimney 'o lump on top of the basket convinced me the weed torch is the way to go! The torch will blow out if you get it too close to the coals same with my Egg.
Mo-Dave
Quintessential Chatty Farker
pipe thing
No pics, but the pipe is just an L shap, the muffler shop has bent for me with the short end going into the barrel and the long end upright outside the smoker, cost me about 12 bucks. The ball valve is a tight fit for the one I have but I guess you could have the pipe threaded, just remenber to put the valve on before mounting it to the barrel or you may not be able to screw it on. If the valve is to lose try wraping duck tape or plumbers tape around the pipe end severl times and the valve should screw on to that for a better fit. Next time I may move up to a 2 1/2 pipe and 2/12 valve.
On the basket I have welded a handle that loops over the top just like an Easter basket, then I use a fireplace poker to reach in and hook it to either pull it out or put it back in. Saves you from haveing to reach down so far into the barrel and getting your arm and shrit all messed up, been there done that. Also keep your hands away from the heat.
One other thing. I have a welder but I am not that good with it and barrels for me are hard to weld. So next time I will have the muffler shop weld a mounting plate to the short end of the pipe with starter holes drilled for sheet metal screws and maybe put a neopream gasket, behide that for a good fit.
As far as all the other brackit for the racks and handles I will also drill holes for them, much neater that way, hope that helps. Fun to make and really work great. And I use a metal hole saw to cut th pipe hole, if using a 2 in pipe I would recomend using a 1 an 3/4 in saw. The hole being cut on a rounded surface will be much biger than the 2 in pipe and harder to fill the gap. Gusse you could just cut a squire hole.
Dave
Blutch said:
No pics, but the pipe is just an L shap, the muffler shop has bent for me with the short end going into the barrel and the long end upright outside the smoker, cost me about 12 bucks. The ball valve is a tight fit for the one I have but I guess you could have the pipe threaded, just remenber to put the valve on before mounting it to the barrel or you may not be able to screw it on. If the valve is to lose try wraping duck tape or plumbers tape around the pipe end severl times and the valve should screw on to that for a better fit. Next time I may move up to a 2 1/2 pipe and 2/12 valve.
On the basket I have welded a handle that loops over the top just like an Easter basket, then I use a fireplace poker to reach in and hook it to either pull it out or put it back in. Saves you from haveing to reach down so far into the barrel and getting your arm and shrit all messed up, been there done that. Also keep your hands away from the heat.
One other thing. I have a welder but I am not that good with it and barrels for me are hard to weld. So next time I will have the muffler shop weld a mounting plate to the short end of the pipe with starter holes drilled for sheet metal screws and maybe put a neopream gasket, behide that for a good fit.
As far as all the other brackit for the racks and handles I will also drill holes for them, much neater that way, hope that helps. Fun to make and really work great. And I use a metal hole saw to cut th pipe hole, if using a 2 in pipe I would recomend using a 1 an 3/4 in saw. The hole being cut on a rounded surface will be much biger than the 2 in pipe and harder to fill the gap. Gusse you could just cut a squire hole.
Dave
