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Weed burner is the easiest way to start the fire. These pics are from my first drum that was bottomless so I just picked it up and set it over the basket. On my new drum I just stick the weed burner in and less then one minute later I shut if off put on the lid and presto the temps a risen. Those three pics are from start to finish and in less then a minute.
 

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Ok guys, I have a question for you. I have about 8 cooks in my drum so far and I like it a lot. However, I am having a hard time getting my temps up. I have no problem getting to 225, but I can't get any higher. I have all 3 inlets open. This is with the lid sealed shut. However, my last cook i didn't seal it completely shut and the lid was not closed all the way around. During this time, my temps went up to 350*. This led me to think that my exhausts (8 holes in flat lid) are not big enough. Do you guys think that if I drilled the holes a bit bigger that I would be able to get temps higher if I wanted them (for chicken and such)?
 
Ok guys, I have a question for you. I have about 8 cooks in my drum so far and I like it a lot. However, I am having a hard time getting my temps up. I have no problem getting to 225, but I can't get any higher. I have all 3 inlets open. This is with the lid sealed shut. However, my last cook i didn't seal it completely shut and the lid was not closed all the way around. During this time, my temps went up to 350*. This led me to think that my exhausts (8 holes in flat lid) are not big enough. Do you guys think that if I drilled the holes a bit bigger that I would be able to get temps higher if I wanted them (for chicken and such)?



When I want the temp to go up I just open all the intakes and take the lid off for a few minutes. Then I put the lid back on and check the temp. If it's OK I just close the intakes enough to maintain the higher temp. If it's not high enough I just take the lid back off for a few more minutes and repeat the process.
 
When I want the temp to go up I just open all the intakes and take the lid off for a few minutes. Then I put the lid back on and check the temp. If it's OK I just close the intakes enough to maintain the higher temp. If it's not high enough I just take the lid back off for a few more minutes and repeat the process.



See that's the thing. I already have all of the intakes open just to keep things at 225.
 
What size are your Intakes?
How far are they from the bottom and are you using an ashtray?
If so, how tall are the sides on it?
What config is your Basket?

This ain't rocket science but in order to answer a question intelligently,
we need your specs. Photos are always a plus.

Weiser



See that's the thing. I already have all of the intakes open just to keep things at 225.
 
Sounds like you've got some kind of intake air flow issue. I've never run all my intakes open for more than start-up. All I need is intakes closed and ball valve at about 3/4 open to get steady 225-230. I'm using a Weber lid which may make a diference.
 
Still paint on an in my drum

I stacked my drum with a bunch of wood and got maybe 65% of the lining and paint off, but that still leaves 35% left. Should I sand it out or get a weed burner from harbor freight?
 
I did my first cook of a pork butt. I could not keep temps below 325 and my fuel burnt out after 6 hours. i guess I have some fitment issues with the lid.

Bspencer
 
Scored a FREE weber 22" yesterday and starting to get UDS built together and had a couple of questions. For those who have used the nipple style intake and a setup similar to Jtwised13 or magnet intake. What difference have you noticed in the two setups if any? Is it better to have the nipples go into the drum and if so is there a optimum length or does it matter? I'm on my second read of this thread and I'm sure it's in there somewhere. I do remember there where issues with the nipples being to long correct? FYI I'm using basket w/2"-2 1/2" high ash tray.
 
Scored a FREE weber 22" yesterday and starting to get UDS built together and had a couple of questions. For those who have used the nipple style intake and a setup similar to Jtwised13 or magnet intake. What difference have you noticed in the two setups if any? Is it better to have the nipples go into the drum and if so is there a optimum length or does it matter? I'm on my second read of this thread and I'm sure it's in there somewhere. I do remember there where issues with the nipples being to long correct? FYI I'm using basket w/2"-2 1/2" high ash tray.

I tried the magnet route on my test burn and although they did work they also deformed a bit from the heat, so longevity is an issue. Cheap but an issue nonetheless. I went out and bought some "close" nipples. These are but an inch or so long so do not intrude into the barrel at all and the protrusion is minimal. If going the nipple route get "close" nipples.
 
I posted a while back about the barrel I was going to buy with the red liner. Well I finally did a burn but the liner seems totally untouched.

The fire was an inferno too. Here is some pictures. I burned it pretty consistently for about 8 hours with nice tall flames leaping out quite a bit. Is this normal? I know people mentioned having to do multiple burns at times but I figured it would have been atleast heavily damaged and partially gone.

The fire

Taken at night with the flash to put it in perspective just how bright that orange glow is
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After I used the garden hose to wash it out

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http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5249/img00099y.jpg
There won't be any grass on this section of the lawn this year

Sorry for the repeated edits, just trying to get my pictures to link right.
 
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I have a similar barrel with the red liner that was used to ship grape juice. I did a burn for about 4 hours and even warped the bottom and the red paint did not come off. I have tried to use an angle grinder with a steel brush to grind it off and have decided that I now have a garbage barrel instead of a BBQ.
Someone gaive me a barrel used to ship Cetane, a diesel additive that has the capability of explosion if it gets too hot! I filled it with water and liquid detergent and cut off the top with a saws all. It has no liner but when it burned the Cetane lit up and got so hot the paint on the outside was even on flames. It got real scary for a minute with so much flame. Cetane smells a lot like rubber cement. We had to hose it down to control the burn but it burned up anything flammable and now l have a clean barrel. Luckily the other barrel's lid will fit perfectly so I believe I have all the parts needed to finish my UDS.
I think you are in for a long day if you want to continue with removing the red liner. I don't know exactly what is in the red paint but it holds very well and it is used with a food products so one has to wonder if it is safe or not at 300 degrees. On the other hand, I wouldn't recommend using a barrel with Cetane in it either. That stuff is bad but sure burned out the barrel nicely.
 
So I guess it is not just me.
The heat of the fire took care of most of the paint on the outside all the way upto the top.
My inexact estimate of temp was that it would have melted a beer bottle. I have built camp fires that could melt a beer bottle flat and this was definitely capable of that. So I don't know what that crap is but it is really resistant!

I used a brush for a bit on a couple of spots and it didn't ever clear it off to bare metal.

I was hoping to have this thing up and running for next weekend for my bday but I think I might just have to borrow my friends WSM

An American science and surplus store is not far from me...anyone know of any acids/bases that might take care of this problem :)
 
Hey Boothguy, I doubt very much that there will be any residue crap
left after several burns.
I'd burn it good, and use it.

Others here will tell you to piss your money away on a "new" drum
that has seen just as many bad chemicals during their restoration
or manufacture...

Weiser
That red chit isn't good for ya.


I have a similar barrel with the red liner that was used to ship grape juice. I did a burn for about 4 hours and even warped the bottom and the red paint did not come off. I have tried to use an angle grinder with a steel brush to grind it off and have decided that I now have a garbage barrel instead of a BBQ.
Someone gaive me a barrel used to ship Cetane, a diesel additive that has the capability of explosion if it gets too hot! I filled it with water and liquid detergent and cut off the top with a saws all. It has no liner but when it burned the Cetane lit up and got so hot the paint on the outside was even on flames. It got real scary for a minute with so much flame. Cetane smells a lot like rubber cement. We had to hose it down to control the burn but it burned up anything flammable and now l have a clean barrel. Luckily the other barrel's lid will fit perfectly so I believe I have all the parts needed to finish my UDS.
I think you are in for a long day if you want to continue with removing the red liner. I don't know exactly what is in the red paint but it holds very well and it is used with a food products so one has to wonder if it is safe or not at 300 degrees. On the other hand, I wouldn't recommend using a barrel with Cetane in it either. That stuff is bad but sure burned out the barrel nicely.
 
That is a sweet looking build Sterlingsmoker!

Just a suggestion however.... the basket appears to be too short and too large in diameter from here.
It will work, but not for very long. It really should be at least 10" high and personally, I like 12" to 14" for cooks longer than eight hours.
I would add some expanded metal to the inside of what yo have.

Are you a Plumber? I question the use of multiple Ball valves although, they do look cool.:wink:

Weiser



Here are a few pics of my build on my first drum.


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UDS mods

I came to a conclusion after a couple of smokes on the uds, that the gauge on the outside wall is useless. So, I made a mod to the thermometer.(tossed it out:p) Not sure if this was in this thread before, but thought I would share this with you guy's. I took a 5/16 threaded brass rod and drilled a .156 hole through the middle leaving about .002 to .003 clearence ( per side) for the 12 inch thermometer probe($3 at Meijers)to slide in and out as needed.This way I don't need a digital thermometer for the grate, only the meat. And since I haven't made a cart for it yet I added a couple of handles to bring it in and out easier. I made a couple for my buddies and had them pc a copper vien the picture isn't that good I will have to get a better one later. I also did my first butt today on the uds, it's resting right now so no pulled pics yet, but the burnt end was awesome!!
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