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Ugly Drum Smoker

Building a UDS is like BBQ itself; it's more about the journey than the actual end-product :cool:

In all seriousness, slogging through the thread is truly well worth the time to do it. There are conversations imbedded within it that discuss a variety of issues having to do with intake draw, firebasket construction, exhaust options, grate placement, thermometer placement, types of thermometers and more that help you understand how the UDS works, not just build one.

Understanding the cooker you build will save you a lot of frustration and wasted money on botched cooks.:thumb:

OR....

Just take a 55 Gal, open-head drum, cut three holes in sides about an inch from the bottom of the barrel with a 1" bi-metal hole saw, thread in three 3/4" black iron close pipe nipples, anchor them on the inside with conduit nuts, burn it out till it glows cherry red, wirebrush the inside till it's down to bare metal, build your firebasket, measure 24" up from the bottom of your firebasket and mark that as your cooking grate level. Put in three 2" stainless steel bolts to hold your cooking grate. Immediately under the grate, drill a hole for a 12" stem turkey frier thermometer to anchor in. In the lid, screw in a piece of 2" pipe about 12" long into the 2" bung hole. Put a handle on the lid, some bricks under the drum to keep it off the ground, coat the inside of the clean, bare metal drum hardware and cooking grate with cooking spray, load up the firebasket with about 5-6 lbs. of charcoal, light one full chimney of coals to put on top, open up all your intakes and let it burn for another 5-10 hours to season the inside of the drum. POOF: UDS ready to cook on.

If you have any questions about ANY of that.... READ THE THREAD!!!:laugh:
 
Southern Home Boy said:
Building a UDS is like BBQ itself; it's more about the journey than the actual end-product :cool:

In all seriousness, slogging through the thread is truly well worth the time to do it. There are conversations imbedded within it that discuss a variety of issues having to do with intake draw, firebasket construction, exhaust options, grate placement, thermometer placement, types of thermometers and more that help you understand how the UDS works, not just build one.

Understanding the cooker you build will save you a lot of frustration and wasted money on botched cooks.:thumb:

OR....

Just take a 55 Gal, open-head drum, cut three holes in sides about an inch from the bottom of the barrel with a 1" bi-metal hole saw, thread in three 3/4" black iron close pipe nipples, anchor them on the inside with conduit nuts, burn it out till it glows cherry red, wirebrush the inside till it's down to bare metal, build your firebasket, measure 24" up from the bottom of your firebasket and mark that as your cooking grate level. Put in three 2" stainless steel bolts to hold your cooking grate. Immediately under the grate, drill a hole for a 12" stem turkey frier thermometer to anchor in. In the lid, screw in a piece of 2" pipe about 12" long into the 2" bung hole. Put a handle on the lid, some bricks under the drum to keep it off the ground, coat the inside of the clean, bare metal drum hardware and cooking grate with cooking spray, load up the firebasket with about 5-6 lbs. of charcoal, light one full chimney of coals to put on top, open up all your intakes and let it burn for another 5-10 hours to season the inside of the drum. POOF: UDS ready to cook on.

If you have any questions about ANY of that.... READ THE THREAD!!!:laugh:
Click to expand...

A couple points about what you've written here:
1) The 12" pipe makes a nice handle by itself,
2) Only about 10-12 lit briquettes are needed to get the UDS started, otherwise it'll likely get too hot right off the bat (based on Norco's recommendation and my personal experience with 2 runs where I thought I knew better!)
3) Some kind of bushing is needed to support the turkey fryer thermometer (this is a good research item! Several good ideas exist out there...)

-Rodney
 
Rodney said:
A couple points about what you've written here:
1) The 12" pipe makes a nice handle by itself,
2) Only about 10-12 lit briquettes are needed to get the UDS started, otherwise it'll likely get too hot right off the bat (based on Norco's recommendation and my personal experience with 2 runs where I thought I knew better!)
3) Some kind of bushing is needed to support the turkey fryer thermometer (this is a good research item! Several good ideas exist out there...)

-Rodney
Click to expand...

Actually, just about every point I mentioned could be a good research item. There's at least three or four ways to do each and every step I described.

The higher temps from a full chimney are for seasoning purposes, not necessarily cooking. The oil doesn't really get "baked on" unless your temps get above 400* for at least an hour. The longer you can maintain that higher temp, the better your seasoning coat will be.

Anchors Smokeshop seemed to want a "this is how you do it" answer.

My point was truly that it is better to read through the whole thread - long, cumbersome and sometimes monotonous as it is - so that a person can get a feel for what works best for them instead of simply trying to rely on one description or what worked for someone else.
 
Southern Home Boy said:
Actually, just about every point I mentioned could be a good research item. There's at least three or four ways to do each and every step I described.

The higher temps from a full chimney are for seasoning purposes, not necessarily cooking. The oil doesn't really get "baked on" unless your temps get above 400* for at least an hour. The longer you can maintain that higher temp, the better your seasoning coat will be.

Anchors Smokeshop seemed to want a "this is how you do it" answer.

My point was truly that it is better to read through the whole thread - long, cumbersome and sometimes monotonous as it is - so that a person can get a feel for what works best for them instead of simply trying to rely on one description or what worked for someone else.
Click to expand...

Ahh... that makes sense. :wink: I totally agree. I did it too. :bored:
 
Is it a right of passage? Me kinda thinks so.:-D I have a weber dome but it doesn't fit, what now? Did I turn the drum upside down and check dome fit? Yes I did, it fit perfectly! So how do I cut the bottem out? Depends on the tools you have available. I have a lever lock flat top with no bung holes and no way to cut a 2" hole? What are my exhaust options? Will 8- 1/2" holes work? I don't want to buy expanded steel for my fire basket, but I have a square basket, will that work? How high should the basket be off the bottom? How do I get the ashes out!...etc...etc. I could go on and on. I did my build when the page count was #291, and I've read every page since and STILL learning! NOTHING IS CHISELD IN STONE! The guide lines of what works good and maybe not so good are in this thread. You don't have to read it to build a UDS, but I'm very glad I did and still do! :blah: :blah:
 
Just about ready to finish my UDS. I just need to drill the holes for the openings and paint and it's ready. I have all the nipples and a ball valve but while at Home Depot today I almost bought a 3' piece of pipe and a 90* arm so that I could relocate the valve up higher so I don't have to bend down. I decided to put it back and just get it cooking before I "modify" it.

However, it got me thinking, is there any difference in how the cooker vents if the valve is down low or if you relocate it up higher? Or does it do it's job no matter where it's at?
 
I found these on Portland ,OR CL. Stainless 55 gal drums for $220 or best offer .

with pic's

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/for/1947810761.html


"55 Gallon stainless clean barrels for sale. Make beer, wine, whatever. I have all sorts of brewing stuff for sale and will even make you a brewing system for the right price. I can make brew pots out of the 55 gallon drums for an additional $100-150 each depending on parts. I may be able to make a price break if more than one drum is bought at a time. The price is for one drum. These are used but in great shape. They sell for $700 to $1000 brand new from the manufacturer so this is a great deal. "
 
kyle corn said:
Just about ready to finish my UDS. I just need to drill the holes for the openings and paint and it's ready. I have all the nipples and a ball valve but while at Home Depot today I almost bought a 3' piece of pipe and a 90* arm so that I could relocate the valve up higher so I don't have to bend down. I decided to put it back and just get it cooking before I "modify" it.

However, it got me thinking, is there any difference in how the cooker vents if the valve is down low or if you relocate it up higher? Or does it do it's job no matter where it's at?
Click to expand...

The UDS doesn't care, but I don't like bending over.
 
Last edited:
I built mine with the riser air intake and it has been a joy to cook on...
I used 1" i.d. Black Pipe....And don't forget, you can use magnets instead of the ball valves to regulate the air intake...

Obligatory_DrumPit_7.jpg


kyle corn said:
Just about ready to finish my UDS. I just need to drill the holes for the openings and paint and it's ready. I have all the nipples and a ball valve but while at Home Depot today I almost bought a 3' piece of pipe and a 90* arm so that I could relocate the valve up higher so I don't have to bend down. I decided to put it back and just get it cooking before I "modify" it.

However, it got me thinking, is there any difference in how the cooker vents if the valve is down low or if you relocate it up higher? Or does it do it's job no matter where it's at?
Click to expand...
 
I say no cheating. I am a newby on here and I was told a few times to read the thread... read the thread... so, being one to not want to cause a fight, I read the thread and know what. I feel it is a rite to passage. now don't ask me who said what but I have all the parts together and plan on building me a drum very very soon. I wish I was a welder, pipefitter, painter, mechanic and maybe mine will turn out like some of these "amature" made cooking drums.

keep up the good work, I read daily and learn something each and every day.

Now, what is the best rub to use on Pork and one Beef....he he he

Sugar
 
I read the first couple hundred pages before I built mine and I'm glad I did. Yea it took time but patience is a virtue when it comes to low and slow.
 
Sugar-T said:
Now, what is the best rub to use on Pork and one Beef....he he he

Sugar
Click to expand...

Go to the bulk spices at your supermarket, buy a little bit of everything, and when you come up with a killer rub. send me some!!!:wink:
 
Sorry if it's already been discussed. I googled & read but didn't find anything. Has anyone used a 30 quart stainless steel mixing bowl for a lid? Seems to be about the right diameter @ 22". They're ~$25.. Cheers!!!
 
hamiltont said:
Sorry if it's already been discussed. I googled & read but didn't find anything. Has anyone used a 30 quart stainless steel mixing bowl for a lid? Seems to be about the right diameter @ 22". They're ~$25.. Cheers!!!
Click to expand...
That would depend on the drum- most of them are bigger than that. The ones I've used measured a hair over 23" to the outside of the bead. BUT- you could cut the top out leaving a 1/2" ledge all the way around, and the bowl should drop inside the bead, and sit nicely on the ledge. I'll have to consider that on my next build.......
 
I'm Done

Thank the lord I am finally finished!!!!!!!!!!! I have my barrell, my grates stainless steel zip ties. As soon as we get some rain again I hope to get my barrel burnt out and get this thing finished
 
To the UDS Experts... Cooked my third round of ribs yesterday. This may be a little lengthy, but wanted some insight from the people who've used the UDS a lot...

1) First cook my temps stayed rock steady. Last two, for some reason can't seem to get them to hold steady. Seals, everything is tight, so shouldn't be an air issue. Only thing I could come up with was the first I used majority lump, and the last two primarily KF charcoal. :roll:

2) Heat diffuser??? I know others have stated using a water bowl, or some other type of diffuser. Reason I ask is the variation of the cooking temps across the grate. Right over top of basket, seem to over char/ burn the bottom of the ribs, vs the others outside the center two. I have a pizza pan w/ holes all over it, and wondered if I somehow incorporated that. Would that help, hinder the burn at all, or make it harder to control the temps...

3) When I foil my ribs, I lose that nice crispy outside. Is the wrapping to help prevent burning, simply to speed up the finishing of the rib, or is it just a preference thing?

I'll hush for now.... Thanks in advance to some much needed advise!!!! :help:
 
stglide said:
To the UDS Experts... Cooked my third round of ribs yesterday. This may be a little lengthy, but wanted some insight from the people who've used the UDS a lot...

1) First cook my temps stayed rock steady. Last two, for some reason can't seem to get them to hold steady. Seals, everything is tight, so shouldn't be an air issue. Only thing I could come up with was the first I used majority lump, and the last two primarily KF charcoal. :roll:

2) Heat diffuser??? I know others have stated using a water bowl, or some other type of diffuser. Reason I ask is the variation of the cooking temps across the grate. Right over top of basket, seem to over char/ burn the bottom of the ribs, vs the others outside the center two. I have a pizza pan w/ holes all over it, and wondered if I somehow incorporated that. Would that help, hinder the burn at all, or make it harder to control the temps...

3) When I foil my ribs, I lose that nice crispy outside. Is the wrapping to help prevent burning, simply to speed up the finishing of the rib, or is it just a preference thing?

I'll hush for now.... Thanks in advance to some much needed advise!!!! :help:
Click to expand...

After you foil do you remove from foil and put back on foe :45 -1hour? I quit foiling a while ago. $4 hours on grate flip or 2 if I wife wants me to do something around the house which i can't as I am too busy cookin!:becky:

The uds is not a high dollar cooker. Uneven temps is how they roll. Diffusers help but also use more fuel and lose that UDS taste.

Don't be anal about temps find out where it cruises and limit adjustments and adjust time accordingly.
 
Norcoredneck said:
After you foil do you remove from foil and put back on foe :45 -1hour? I quit foiling a while ago. $4 hours on grate flip or 2 if I wife wants me to do something around the house which i can't as I am too busy cookin!:becky:

The uds is not a high dollar cooker. Uneven temps is how they roll. Diffusers help but also use more fuel and lose that UDS taste.

Don't be anal about temps find out where it cruises and limit adjustments and adjust time accordingly.
Click to expand...

I do unfoil, but maybe not long enough. I'm sure I didn't leave them on another hour. You flip your ribs? May be some of the issue... I haven't.

As for the temps, that is my problem. Darn thing won't hold steady for some reason. Wondering if the lump burned hotter, and more consistent than the KF.... Guess only one way to find out! :becky:
 
stglide said:
I do unfoil, but maybe not long enough. I'm sure I didn't leave them on another hour. You flip your ribs? May be some of the issue... I haven't.

As for the temps, that is my problem. Darn thing won't hold steady for some reason. Wondering if the lump burned hotter, and more consistent than the KF.... Guess only one way to find out! :becky:
Click to expand...

I have found that the lump burns way hotter...but the opposite is true for me in terms of temp staying constant. I think it might be do to the non-uniformity of the chunks in the lump. Using KF briq's I can lock it in anywhere from 230-300 for a long haul.
 
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