Ugly Drum Smoker

Greetings!

1st post - n00b q-er.

Have a lead on a drum for a UDS build, but contained creosote, like for painting fences. Is that related to the creosote buildup from a poorly ventilated cook? Can I burn it out and use it to cook on?

tia, and man do y'all know a ton about q's...

After about 30 to 40 cooks (everyone a success) on mine, I thought I'd share some of the things I've learned and what I will do differently for the next one. One of the major things would be to start with a heavier gauge barrel. The thin gauge I started with makes it difficult to use conduit nuts, not enough thickness to really get them tight and they end up coming loose. Solved that by welding them in. This also made temps more stable by eliminating small air leaks. I also think the heavier gauge will be more efficient and help with temp stability in in rainy, windy, colder weather.

When I was building mine, I agonized over how to make the fire basket. Size, height, etc. Mine is simply a Lowe's 2x2 square cut in half with the ends bolted together into a hoop and then u-bolted to a replacement Weber fire grate with 4 inch bolts through the bottom. A cheap pizza pan was attached to these. I was concerned about the capacity and how even the burn would be, but have since learned that even this smallish basket works brilliantly, having run 24+ hours on a 225 degree burn using a 12lb bag of Kingsford with briquettes left over. There's no telling how long it would burn if I filled it completely.

Speaking of briquettes, I prefer them over lump for their consistent burning. You might not have as strong as smoke flavor as the lump, but you can adjust by adding more wood. Have had good luck with Kingsford and several other brands. Once I light the briquettes with my weed burner (best investment I ever made) and lower it in the drum, I set my 3/4 inch ball valve to about 90 percent open and leave the caps on the other two nipples. She will level out at 225 and go for as long as 5 or 6 hours before needing a good shake to drop the ashes and bring the temp back.

The next one I build will have two racks instead of one. Two butts or big slabs of spares leave room for little else, and I feel like there is sufficient room below for another rack, even with my flat lid. The 24 inch rule of thumb for is just that. For low and slow cooks, this should be fine, you're just trying to keep the meat far enough away to prevent your smoker from becoming a grill.

My 5 dollar Wally World 12 inch thermometer has been working like a champ. I clean it with a green pad and check the calibration every cook. So far, it is spot on. The only other thing I intend to add to my UDS is an IQ110. As steady as mine runs, I'm still not comfortable going to bed at night with a 50 dollar brisket in it for the next day. This should give me some piece of mind.

One problem I have had with the heavier metal drums is they don't match up with the weber lids. So you have to modify for the webber lid to work. "Lots of posts on that mod"
I am going to build another heavier metal UDS but think it will have the flat lid and only 1 rack.

I used a heavier gauge drum. The weber lid didnt fit the removable lid top, but it fit the base perfectly so I cut the bottom out and built it upside down. the original barrel lid supports the firebox and makes cleaning the ash, filling the coal box, and adding more smoke wood or coals a breeze since the whole drum lifts off of it.

Greetings all. First post after wandering the interwebs for awhile. I just started my UDS build yesterday and wanted to get some feedback.

What is the preferred method for finishing the interior? Cooking oil or BBQ paint?

Here are some pics of the progress so far. New : Burning the Paint Off : After scotch brite scrubbing and a hosing

matt24601 said:

Greetings all. First post after wandering the interwebs for awhile. I just started my UDS build yesterday and wanted to get some feedback.

What is the preferred method for finishing the interior? Cooking oil or BBQ paint?

Here are some pics of the progress so far. New : Burning the Paint Off : After scotch brite scrubbing and a hosing

Click to expand...

I just sprayed inside of my barrel with Pam. Burned hot for an hour and then threw some chicken on my first test run on mine.

Well, the bug has officially bitten. Got a drum yesterday (free), and found a porch style fire place thing a neighbor was getting rid of (free).

$50 at Ace Hardware today and now can't wait to get home.

Question on the top - I guess I could use the existing flat top, or use the top from the porch fire pit thing. What's the going suggestion on that? Does the roundness of the top make any difference, other than space for meat?

-Mike

Sandblasting a Drum

Razor800 said:

If you are new to the whole UDS thing, word of advice: listen to those that know. My barrel is being sandblasted. $40, so well worth it given the pains I have gone through with the red liner of death. Picking up tomorrow and painting will begin. May be ready for Memorial Day.

Click to expand...

Hi All I just recieved 2 e-mails from local companys that do sandblasting,one was for 125, the other was 150..That is more then it would cost to build the UDS.Then again I'm in the NYC metro area.:roll:
Dan,Thanks for reaching out. We can blast your drum for 125. Feel free to stop down to the shop anytime.

This grate should fit right in my UDS shouldn't it?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weber-Plated-Steel-Cooking-Grate-7435/100657910

illushinz said:

This grate should fit right in my UDS shouldn't it?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weber-Plated-Steel-Cooking-Grate-7435/100657910

Click to expand...

Yes.

illushinz said:

This grate should fit right in my UDS shouldn't it?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weber-Plated-Steel-Cooking-Grate-7435/100657910

Click to expand...

Thats the one. I need to get another.

Just got back from HD. My Home Depot here had about 5 on the shelf. Also got some 6" stainless bolts, washers and nuts. Fire basket will be about 5" off the bottom of the barrel.

Any suggestions for where to locate the air inlets in relationship to the fire basket?

Nobody reads anymore do they....

I'm about halfway through these 12K posts. And researching other sites. Wasn't trying to be 'that guy'.

I agree, it is confusing. One guy says 3 bottom vents, one guy says 5, one guy says 3" from bottom, another says 6", one idea is for a 12" dia fire box, another is 20"...... Then there are sections where for a couple of pages, all the posts relate to cooking and not building.

I started a spreadsheet, with a row for each dimension, then as I read through the posts, I just entered the dimensions. After a while, certain numbers started appearing more frequently, so those are what I'm using.

As a very new guy, I once suggested that a separate "build" sticky thread be started, and was told in no uncertain terms to READ, READ, READ. I learned my lesson, I won't make THAT comment again, BUT, some of those stickys don't get many posts these days.

I ordered the Arron Franklin book yesterday, hopefully that will answer some questions.






.

No worries guys. There is a lot of info out there. This is the thread I used for measurements and design.----courtesy of Norcoredneck

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43943

I do use a Weber lid on mine.

And I should have been a little more specific, I really just meant 'in general'.

Like should the inlets be below the firebox, near the bottom, top, above, etc? That kind of 'suggestion'.

Thx for the thread funugy

- And thanks again - cause that's a great UDS build thread!

FYI - a mic ultra can fits in the large bung.... Lol

I centered my inlet holes about two inches from bottom of drum to keep them from becoming obstructed by any falling ash. The bottom of the fire grate is then about two inches above that, four inches off the bottom to allow good airflow.

I'm soaking all this in... Thanks for the info