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I have gotten a couple of drums that had oil for bread mold release agent. They were unlined. I cut the top off one that Hook Line and Sinker brought over. it had Bourbon or drinking alcohol in it.
 
I didn't think they would put food in an unlined barrel unless it was stainless. I guess olive oil would be fine though since it wouldn't let the steel rust like other foods with water in them would.

Burning this drum out is a pain in the a$$. I got it cherry red and the inside is still orange like the liner. There isn't any smoke from the inside anymore because the liner seems to have burned as much as it can. I tried to use a wire wheel on a drill but it is taking a long time to get through to bare metal. I would venture to guess it's fine now but I'm not sure if I want to let it go. Grrr!!!

I think I'd take her down to bare metal bro...just my opinion...I don't think I'd que in it with the liner remnants. You've come this far...a little more time and elbow grease should do the trick (along with the wire wheel). :p
 
I think I'd take her down to bare metal bro...just my opinion...I don't think I'd que in it with the liner remnants. You've come this far...a little more time and elbow grease should do the trick (along with the wire wheel). :p

Another thing i would think might help is if you have a right angle 4" grinder or the like, you should be able to run that around the inside of the drum to cut some paths down to bare metal (don't do the whole thing). That ought to help you get started with the wire wheel, like giving you a place to get started on the liner where its already down to bare metal.

Just my $.02
 
I had the same thing happen with my burnout. The drum got red hot and the outside paint came right off, but that liner just smoked a bit and changed colors. I got it all off with a grinder using a 4 inch knotted wire wheel. Took a couple of sessions and I looked like a coal miner afterward, but it's all shiny bare steel now.

I would be surprised if you could get it off easily with a wire wheel on a drill. That liner is tough.
 
I had the same thing happen when I burned mine. I gave up and purchased a new one figured my time was valuable.

Next topic, finally found a weber kettle on Craigs list. Did I miss something in all these posts? Does the rim of the barrel have to come off?

I've tried bending the lid out and I don't think its going to seal worth a crap?

I like the flat top look and have considered trying to weld 1/3 of a barrel to the top, but this "appeared" to be an easier and more cost effective solution.
 
does eveyone take the lining out? I must have missed this step. i had olive oil in my drum and the inside was a tan now its a dark brown, i havn't gotten sick. i wonder if my Q has a high level of metal in it?:icon_blush:
 
I had the same thing happen when I burned mine. I gave up and purchased a new one figured my time was valuable.

Next topic, finally found a weber kettle on Craigs list. Did I miss something in all these posts? Does the rim of the barrel have to come off?

I've tried bending the lid out and I don't think its going to seal worth a crap?

I like the flat top look and have considered trying to weld 1/3 of a barrel to the top, but this "appeared" to be an easier and more cost effective solution.

I think it's just that drums are different. Some fit real good, others take a lot of tweaking to get a good fit.
Mine leaks a bit but I figure if I put it on the same each time then I get the sam amount of leak (which isn't a whole lot).
It took me three or four sessions of bending the rim of the Weber lid to get where I'm at now so don't get discouraged just keep bendingand hammering..make the farker fit!!
I'm considering some kind of stove seal or something too which I think some have done.
 
You might find it more practical to cut off the top 2 to 3 inches of the kettle body and stick that into the top of your drum. Or cut off the lip of the drum. Or perhaps even add to the lip of the drum. It all depends on your measurements.

The key is to measure things first and see what the best option is based on your particular measurements.

Conversely, f-it all and just go with the original drum lid for the classical flat-top approach
 
My lid does not seal.

The lid simply sits on the lip of the barrel.
The lid is adjusted pretty well to sit on it all the way around, without any real gaps.

I personally do not find it a problem, and the reason I say this is because I can shut all of the vents off, top and bottom, and the fire goes out. That means I can dial in any low temp I want, all the way to cold.

JMHO, but I think everyone puts too much emphasis on sealing the kettle lids. YMMV of course.

Jerry
www.uglydrumsmoker.blogspot.com
.
 
Conversely, f-it all and just go with the original drum lid for the classical flat-top approach

This will probably be the end result. Its the visions of granduer of having two racks full of meat that had me going down this path.

That and the Thanksgiving turkey was a very tight fit...

As the wife and I are empty nesters now, probably will not be more than 1 Brisket or 1 Butt on there very often and if I had a crowd I could fit two Briskets or 2 Butts if needed.

Not done hammering on this lid just yet, but close.
 
If you still have the kettle bottom you can cut it off a couple of inches from the top and slip it inside your drum...that way your lid will fit. A few folks have done this mod with great results. Search around for pics of Swamprb's mod...
 
If you still have the kettle bottom you can cut it off a couple of inches from the top and slip it inside your drum...that way your lid will fit. A few folks have done this mod with great results. Search around for pics of Swamprb's mod...

Swamprb showed me the way......
 

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If you still have the kettle bottom you can cut it off a couple of inches from the top and slip it inside your drum...that way your lid will fit. A few folks have done this mod with great results. Search around for pics of Swamprb's mod...

Hmm this looks like a great solution, I know someone with cutting torch.

Of course I have now bent the Kettle lid almost straigh out, but nothing a rubber mallet won't cure.
 
Fire ring size questions.......Mine is 12" dia. 6"high, made of fairly open expand metal. I'm having issues with ash choking. Do you guys think I need big dia. basket to spread things out more? Oh,I'm using Kingsford charcoal.
 
Fire ring size questions.......Mine is 12" dia. 6"high, made of fairly open expand metal. I'm having issues with ash choking. Do you guys think I need big dia. basket to spread things out more? Oh,I'm using Kingsford charcoal.

The size sounds fine but you could go bigger if you wanted to, just remember not to over fill it and go with the menion method when starting it. You wil need to shake the drum every now and then to get the extra ash to fall away.
A small basket can cause you problems when cooking larger butts etc as the grease may drip on the coals and extinguish them.

Do you have any pictures or your basket both empty and full as though you would use it for a cook?
 
Fire ring size questions.......Mine is 12" dia. 6"high, made of fairly open expand metal. I'm having issues with ash choking. Do you guys think I need big dia. basket to spread things out more? Oh,I'm using Kingsford charcoal.

just a thought!! is the floor of your basket a couple inches off the floor of the drum??
 
A small basket can cause you problems when cooking larger butts etc as the grease may drip on the coals and extinguish them.

Yeah, Thats what I'm worried about. I think I'm going to whip up a larger basket so I don't come short on long cooks. It was my 1st test fire so I loaded up, which added to the issue.

just a thought!! is the floor of your basket a couple inches off the floor of the drum??

I'm about 3" off the bottom.
 
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