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Using an automatic pit temp controller with a WSM

I have the WSM 22.5 and I have added gaskets and the CB Stainless steel door. At the end of any cook, I can close all the vents and my coals are out in an hour or so. When I am ready to cook next time, I do the following:

- Break WSM into three sections.
- Pull the grates and my drip pan (cheap aluminum turkey roaster pan in water pan with clay pot base).
- Clean off grates and drip pan. Refoil water pan and clay pot base if needed.
- Shake my modded "fire basket" to get any loose ash off the remaining coals and clean out the ashes from last cook.
- Replace the fire basket, push the old coals to the outside if not using IQ120, or to the side away from the IQ120 if I am using it.
- Fill up the rest of the basket with new coal.
- Use flame thrower to light the new coals (center or in front of IQ120 vent as needed)
 
Dave, do you have any issues with your partyq on your wsm? 22in? I have the same setup and was trying to decide on which controller was best. I assume a 10 com fan is all you need as well. Thoughts?

Thks!!!

Nope, never had a problem with it. I use Energizer rechargeable batteries--I just put in a freshly charged set before each use.

My process is:
- Run all dampers wide open, PartyQ not hooked up until I get close to temp.

- Close the dampers down and hook up the PartyQ. Set the setpoint I want to maintain.

- Come back in about 30 minutes and see how the PartyQ is running. This step is important--your Maverick might say you're holding temp, but you need to know if the PartyQ is running full time (crack another damper open) or not at all (maybe add some water, set up a wind block, etc).

You occasionally need to use another damper to let in a little more air--the bitty fan on a PartyQ isn't necessarily enough to keep temps in adverse conditions, like if it's really cold or really windy (or both). But it is enough with a little help. I tend to need another damper cracked, but I also cook hot & fast so holding 300 is a lot to ask of that bitty fan.
 
2. - Never close up the top exhaust vent. Always leave it full open. The number one problem that causes creosoting is partially closed exhaust vents. I drop a thermometer into one of the holes so I can get the dome temp.

A partially closed top vent can cause creosoting, but if you notice I said try that if there are a lot of leaks. In simpler terms, if the whole top end of your WSM is acting like one big exhaust, try partially closing the top vent. It works. I had to clean my WSM and it was like it was new, back to all the leaks from not being gunked up again yet. Got the advice to partially close it from TVWB and it worked like a charm. Not a bit of creosote taste at all. It's all good and gunked up again now and I no longer have that problem. I tested it. It works. No creosote problem at all.
 
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