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I don't understand why you need a Guru or any other assistance. I've built 11 drums and they all work perfect without one.
 
Doing some upgrades on the DrumPit....Fitting a Weber bottom on top..

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Ribbed for Pure BBQ Pleasure...:tongue:
 
I don't understand why you need a Guru or any other assistance. I've built 11 drums and they all work perfect without one.

I can't explain it but after 2 years mine does not run as effortlessly as it did before. I just bought a Guru.
 
I love my drum. Simple and easy to use. I just need to find a different lid so I can use the 2 levels of cooking. I'm looking forward to using it soon for my son's first birthday. Going to cook for 75.
 
I am not saying that you need a guru - but will say after using one it makes things so much easier I never want to go back.

Besides being able to sleep for hours during my bbq w/o needing to go check the temps to make sure it is still stable. It is really nice to light a pit - see it is stable, and within 5 minutes go to sleep for the next 5 hrs till morning. Then there is stick burns. Try to stabilize a uds burning twigs - with the guru I set the temp, and can walk away, it can micro manage the burn.
 
Y'all expertise needed. After many nights of reading this forum, I finally finished my mini uds. I fired it up to season it, but it's holding the temp at about 360. I have 3 3/4 intakes and 1 3/4 inches ball valve, i closed the ball valve and covered two of the intake holes and also almost closed the top holes on the weber lid, but it's still at 360. Any suggestions? I have two thermometers one at the grate level and one in the lid holes, both reading the same temp.:confused:

First thing that comes to mind since you didn't mention it, is how many lit briquettes are you starting with? In a mini, I'd only start with 6-8 fully lit briqs, then catch the temps on the rise. When it hits 200, close off all caps, and leave the valve open. When it gets close to target temp, start choking down the valve to stabilize. You are using minion method right?

It's always better starting off with fewer coals, and catching temp on the way up, instead of overshooting, then fighting to get temp lower.

Another tip, and I'm just guessing here because you gave zero info on how you are setting up your fire basket. Bury your wood chunks in the unlit coals, as opposed to placing them on top of coals. This way, they don't immediately burn out, but steadily burn throughout the cook.

Also, with a UDS style cooker, you always want to leave the exhaust wide open, and control temps with the intake. It's not an egg or an akorn.
 
Fired up my brand new UDS today, and I just could NOT control the temperature while using natural oak lump. I ended up opening all the valves and letting it burn hot and quick, then using briquettes instead and those worked wonderfully. Did a couple of fatties and a rack of St. Louis spare ribs. Turned out great. I was very discouraged after the lump temps went crazy, but now I'm doubly excited as the results speak for themselves.

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Try with royal oak or kingsford (competition if you can find it.) And be sure not to light too much of it - I usually stick a weedburner down in it and flame until its barely smoking and it gets going pretty well. (Alternately, fire a chimney or less and throw 5-8 coals in on top of the pile.)
 
Well I made my UDS and tried it once with some whole chickens and baked potatoes. Which turn out really good. Yesterday I put on a 9lb Boston Butt and two 9lb Pork Loins. Everything went fine until the wind starting blowing. Moved the UDS to the other side of the shop and it held 250 to 265 degrees just fine. Everybody couldn't believe how they turn out being cooked in a drum. Thanks for all yalls input and info.
 
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Fired up my brand new UDS today, and I just could NOT control the temperature while using natural oak lump. I ended up opening all the valves and letting it burn hot and quick, then using briquettes instead and those worked wonderfully. Did a couple of fatties and a rack of St. Louis spare ribs. Turned out great. I was very discouraged after the lump temps went crazy, but now I'm doubly excited as the results speak for themselves.

I use homemade hickory lump and have not had any problem with it. I use the Minion Method and start with eight fully-lit briquettes. Everything else is lump and wood chunks.
 
I don't understand why you need a Guru or any other assistance. I've built 11 drums and they all work perfect without one.

Now you tell me. :twitch::becky:, I just ordered the iOue 110. Mainly because my off-set smoker really needs it, but after my UDS build I think I'll be selling the off-set.

Here's my build:
TwinsUDS.jpg
 
She's a beauty!

Love the truck too. Diesel prices are a killer nowadays though.
 
What did you use for the decals? Anything special to hold up to the heat?

Nothing special, just normal magnetic decals. So far I am really surprised as to how little heat transfers to the outside of the barrel. When I was at 250-275 degrees, the outside of the UDS was warm but not hot, even down by the coal basket. I have to add that it has been windy during my test runs, so maybe that kept the outside cooler, but so far no problems. I would think it would be the hottest by the fire box, but the magnets I use to cover the air inlets are perfectly fine. We'll see on a 90 degree day with no wind.:pray:

I just recieve the rest of my "bling" for it last night. It should be 100% completed by tonight.:thumb: One thing I may also consider is a diffuser, but I'll make a decision on that soon.
 
Started on the intake holes with a titanium bit then the hole punch. Fortunately I started with a 3/4" punch but found out afterwards that it doesn't make a 3/4" hole. It's a bit oversized, almost 7/8". This greenline punch is made for electricians I believe (holes in panels, etc) and I suspect the 3/4" is made to fit the connectors that fit on the end of 3/4" conduit, hence why they are a little oversized.

So ordered a step bit to drill out to 1". Hopefully someone will avoid the mistake I almost made with this bit of info.

You used the conduit punch. Greenlee also makes Chassis Punches that are ACTUAL diameter. So, a 3/4" chassis punch actually cuts 3/4". The conduit punches are sized for the conduit but cut the hole to accommodate the O.D. of the conduit
 
Some pics from my latest UDS builds, decals aren't on yet but here our some build pics I'll take some when decal are cut and on and post them later.

pwa

a quick, easy and cheap charcoal basket 24qt strainer
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much easier to work on with the bottom off

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Bottom on and ready to smoke
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Lid ring for weber lid
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Notch cut in lid ring for prob wires, now I don't have to worry about prob wires when lifting meat out they come out with it
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Hi again, long time ago i posted pics of my first UDS, made based on all the info found in this thread.
This one is quite big, so i decided today to make a smaller version which is now finished.

Here some pics:

The new one:
new-uds-1.jpg


The basket and grill:
new-uds-2.jpg


The new one next to my old one:
new-uds-3.jpg
 
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