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Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
Hey razrbackcrzy, thanks for the feedback. So how do you suggest I run it with a lid with a 2 1/2" bung? On the second point, I figured out by my post above that I was putting too many coals in to start with. On another note, the drum settled in last night and ran for 16 hours steady between 235-250. I got up in the middle of the night to go to the loo and checked it and it was down to 210 so I kicked a few times and when I woke up it was at 235 right on target. I had the bung open half way with 1.5 intakes open. Next time for sure I'm shooting for half a chimney, maybe running with the bung all the way open?
thanks,
sparky
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
Good to have both lids...Weber for large birds, etc. Also Mauricio, you can tap the ring around the Weber lid with a hammer and piece of wood so that it gently tweaks it out to fit the drum. I read and saw some pics somewhere but I don't have the reference handy right now.
I'm going to do this to my Weber lid that I'm desperately searching for right now.
El Salvador...all right! Had a layover there once but didn't get to stay very long.
Cheers
J
jordan85
Guest
I think I have located some free barrels in excellent shape, but I am not sure if I should use them. The barrels have contained "Water Miscible Blanket & Roller Wash." Specs can be viewed here (N-282): http://www.novapressroom.com/products.cfm#N-200 Medium Dry Series
I found another thread from here on the forums from about 6 months ago regarding this, but there doesn't seem to be anybody responding on that thread that knows definitively whether the barrel would be safe or not after a good burnout.
What do you guys think?
I found another thread from here on the forums from about 6 months ago regarding this, but there doesn't seem to be anybody responding on that thread that knows definitively whether the barrel would be safe or not after a good burnout.
What do you guys think?
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
Looks like products used for printing presses? Not sure how to go about it. When in doubt, throw it out. I wouldn't risk it. I'd really try to find a reconditioned drum. they are like new. The send those things through a 3000 degree kiln to burn them off. A little more money @ around $60 bucks but well worth the time, energy saved and peace of mind.
Sparky
smokainmuskoka
is one Smokin' Farker
Does a sandblasted barrel need a burnout too?
I'm trying to finish my first UDS and I've had a barrel sandblasted.
Do I need to burn it out prior to painting the outside and finishing it?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm trying to finish my first UDS and I've had a barrel sandblasted.
Do I need to burn it out prior to painting the outside and finishing it?
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
razrbakcrzy
is one Smokin' Farker
Try getting a 4-6" piece of PVC that will screw in that bung with a cap and see if that will hellp your issue...See Image...if that dosn't fix it in the second photo you can see a ball valve installed on the front air intake and that will let you close your intake down a little bit to help control you heat...Good luck....
Attachments
1FUNVET
Babbling Farker
If the inside was sandblasted, no need to burn it out.Just spray the inside with Pam or generic spray.
jcinadr
Knows what a fatty is.
While there is a chance the bottom might get hot, I don't worry it. Hot air is lighter than cool air, so it rises. The intake air is colder and heavier, so it will continually cool the bottom. Even w/o an elevated ash pan (which shields the bottom from direct radiant heat), I doubt the bottom would get as warm as the walls - and they are rarely more than warm to the touch.
moda253
Knows what a fatty is.
The two inch bung should be completely open. Don't close it up. You need that to exhaust stale smoke and to create a good draft to pull in air in th bottom. Never use the exhaust to regulate temps.
moda253
Knows what a fatty is.
Shouldn't really ever have to worry about the bottom getting hot. I've sat my smoker on ice in the winter before and it didn't even melt it.
Peddler
Knows what a fatty is.
Four hours into the dry run ... smoker is very touchy between 225* and 250* ... Lid seals good and can't see any visible intake leaks ... 1 vent open and ball valve 1/2 to 1/4 = 250, 1 vent open valve closed 225*. Right now another adjustment vent open and ball valve barely open (1/8 ) ... sure would like to get to 235* to 240*.
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
Hmm...not sure I know what you mean. Why would I want to put a stack on it with a cap. Putting a cap on it is still closing it up. From what I've read from some of the early Pioneers in this thread, using a stack really is just for aesthetics and offers no improvement on air flow. I already have a ball valve on one of the 3/4" intakes. Honestly, I think it is just a matter of starting with way less pre-burned coals to start. Then I should be able to leave the exhaust open more. Going to try on my next cook.
My design is pretty much as simple as they get and I have not tried to reinvent the wheel here. I appreciate the feedback Razr.
Sparky
Sparky
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
Your UDS Design
Hey Peddler...how's it going? Can you remind me of your UDS design again? Also, what was the method of starting the fire today? Minion? Weed burner? How many coals lit etc?
Are you holding your desired temp and with what open?
Sparky
Hey Peddler...how's it going? Can you remind me of your UDS design again? Also, what was the method of starting the fire today? Minion? Weed burner? How many coals lit etc?
Are you holding your desired temp and with what open?
Sparky
Peddler
Knows what a fatty is.
OK .. started with the minion method about 10 coals ... flat lid w/8 exhaust vents.
Once I find the sweet spot on the ball valve ... holding between 225 and 250. I guess I'm a little anal as I would like to get more precise at 235 to 240. A 25 degree spread isn't really that big of a deal. So far so good.
BTW a 2" stack is .4 of a square inch larger than 8 - 1/2 in holes, better exhaust. Do all your control with the INLETS and leave the EXHAUST open.
Once I find the sweet spot on the ball valve ... holding between 225 and 250. I guess I'm a little anal as I would like to get more precise at 235 to 240. A 25 degree spread isn't really that big of a deal. So far so good.
BTW a 2" stack is .4 of a square inch larger than 8 - 1/2 in holes, better exhaust. Do all your control with the INLETS and leave the EXHAUST open.
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
It is actually a 2 1/2" diameter bung. I'm no mathmetician (spelling) but 8 - 1/2" holes gives you 4" of exhaust whereas one 2 1/2" gives you, well, 2 1/2" of exhaust. right? Are you suggesting to actually use a riser?
Sparky
Peddler
Knows what a fatty is.
NO !!!
Use your 1/2 holes and leave them all open ... :sad:
Use your 1/2 holes and leave them all open ... :sad:
sparky66
Knows what a fatty is.
Stop yelling at me :wink: I don't have any 1/2" holes. As I said, I just have a 2 1/2" as an exhaust and three 3/4" intakes drilled 2" above the bottom of the drum.
Sparky
Ringburner
Full Fledged Farker
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Has anyone ever made a step by step guide with pictures or a video for uds creation?
There is just so much info here its totally overwhelming and I'm unsure where to even start..... I'm not especially handy when it comes to diy.
I'm hoping someone with some experience will have made something they can share.
Sent from my GT-I9100
There is just so much info here its totally overwhelming and I'm unsure where to even start..... I'm not especially handy when it comes to diy.
I'm hoping someone with some experience will have made something they can share.
Sent from my GT-I9100
