Ugly Drum Smoker

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

picked up my drum last night.. unlined.. open top with locking ring.. 2 bung holes in lid.. plastic caps though.. so i will be pulling them.. the larger will be for my chimney..

going to home depot to pick up some parts.. planning on starting maybe this weekend.. will post pics

the plan is for a single cooking grate.. 1.5" vent w/ ball valve, expanded steel basket.. for now.. usign flat lid.. plans on using a webber dome eventually

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

looking to pick up a accurate long stem thermometer to mount on my UDS.. any recomendations for a not to pricy one?

also.. considering getting a digital meat probe thermometer to get internal meat temps during cooking..

colonel00 · Aug 2, 2011

soapy_junk said:
looking to pick up a accurate long stem thermometer to mount on my UDS.. any recomendations for a not to pricy one?

also.. considering getting a digital meat probe thermometer to get internal meat temps during cooking..

Grab a $5 turkey fryer thermo from Walmart. There are several different options as to creating a hole that will hold it. You will need for it to be removable so you can pull out your charcoal basket. Also, check it from time to time in boiling water and just keep track if it is off a bit.

1FUNVET · Aug 2, 2011

BigBobBQ said:
I am having the same questions, from what I have come to understand the evenly spaced 1/2" holes in the lid might be the best way to go. it allows the heat and smoke to exit the top in a more uniform manner with even distribution, where I have heard that the single 2 inch bung hole exhaust forces air to exit in one location causing some sort of direct line draft from the intake to the exit and is prone to causing a hot spot under the exhaust and in some cases a large difference in the temperature from the center of the grate to the edge of the grate. I am going to use the evenly spaced holes in the top for my first build as per the instructions on NorCo's build. Maybe some of the more season uds pros can chime in and elaborate on their experience. I may be totally wrong in my thinking but for some reason it makes sense to me.

I used the 2" bung hole and have not had any of the problems you are worried about.

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

update

OK.. update on my build.. just got back from a home depot on my lunch break.. figure i would start collecting parts.. first stop was the plumbing dept for some black pipe..

my plan was to use a single 1.5" ID vent w/ ball valve..

2 questions.. dept the largest i saw was a 1" ball valve.. any ideas of where to source a larger 1.5" valve?

also.. what size hole needs to be drilled in the barrel to allow the pipe to be threaded in?.. i know the 3/4 pipe uses a 1" hole.. but what for the 1.5" pipe.. also.. what is recomended to get a clean hole that large.. do the make vari-bits that size?

thanks in advance

Carbon · Aug 2, 2011

You can buy 1.5" full port ball valves on line, or even from Amazon. I've seen them at smaller hardware stores for under $30, a bit pricey. I know HD's don't stock larger valves.

If you don't have a bi-metal bit that large you can simply trace the hole size onto the drum from a 1.5" nipple you'll be using. Drill a starter hole and you can use a zigsaw to cut out the hole.

I like the single big valve set up but the parts alone can cost you close to $60 with a 2 foot extension, for instance......something to consider.

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

i was planning on using a 12" extennsion.. the parts except the ball valve (nipple, elbow, and extension) were only about $15.. just the drilling of the hole and ball valve are the pricy components

looks like the listed OD of the 1.5" black pipe is 1.9".. now im guessing that is the OD of the pipe itself.. not the threaded portion.. what size hole would you drill for that..

if i use a hole saw.. cut a 2" hole.. and use a floor flange to connect the pipe.. would that work?.. will the floor flange create a good enough seal against the outside of the drum?.. can i put some high temp silicone there or something?

chico4missions · Aug 2, 2011

woodbutcher1 said:
Here are some pics of how i made the bottom of a 22.5" weber kettle the domed lid for my UDS.

Awesome THANKS! I work at a Welding/Gas Supplier :clap2: so I think I can manage to do this. :-D

Carbon · Aug 2, 2011

soapy_junk said:
if i use a hole saw.. cut a 2" hole.. and use a floor flange to connect the pipe.. would that work?.. will the floor flange create a good enough seal against the outside of the drum?.. can i put some high temp silicone there or something?

I would not use a floor flange in that size. I don't think the curveture of the drum will conform well to the large diameter flange.
How about just threading a short nipple into the elbow and securing it with a 1.5" nut from the inside of the drum?

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

Carbon said:
I would not use a floor flange in that size. I don't think the curveture of the drum will conform well to the large diameter flange.
How about just threading a short nipple into the elbow and securing it with a 1.5" nut from the inside of the drum?

that is the orig / ideal plan.. but what size hole is ideal for threading in the nipple?

Carbon · Aug 2, 2011

soapy_junk said:
that is the orig / ideal plan.. but what size hole is ideal for threading in the nipple?

I don't think it's important for the nipple to be able to 'thread' itself into the drum. With the larger diameter pipes you're working with I don't think you'll be able to properly thread the nipple because the drum is curved and more pronounced the larger you go.
If you're using a locknut it doesn't matter. The hole should be just large enough for the nipple to slip through. Just make sure to use an elbow that's threaded on the inside on both ends.

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

Carbon said:
I don't think it's important for the nipple to be able to 'thread' itself into the drum. With the larger diameter pipes you're working with I don't think you'll be able to properly thread the nipple because the drum is curved and more pronounced the larger you go.
If you're using a locknut it doesn't matter. The hole should be just large enough for the nipple to slip through. Just make sure to use an elbow that's threaded on the inside on both ends.

that makes sense.. i didn't think of it that way.. if they say the OD is 1.9.. im guessing a 2" hole saw?... and i planned on having a support on the virticle pipe exension so that should help too..

also.. are people using the 'close' nipple where it is really short and fully threded.. or are like a 3" nipple where the middle has no thread

thanks

chico4missions · Aug 2, 2011

Vikings UDS

Again, another build for a coworker (I'm not a Vikings fan) ... I also did the Raiders one a while back. Used Engine Enamel (500 degrees)

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Needless to say I'm happy the LOCKOUT is over!!! :laugh::clap2:

Carbon · Aug 2, 2011

soapy_junk said:
that makes sense.. i didn't think of it that way.. if they say the OD is 1.9.. im guessing a 2" hole saw?... and i planned on having a support on the virticle pipe exension so that should help too..

also.. are people using the 'close' nipple where it is really short and fully threded.. or are like a 3" nipple where the middle has no thread

thanks

Use the shortest nipple you can find. You may have to use a spacer of some kind to take up some slack if unable to tighten the nut all the way in.

A 2" hole should work but I'm not so sure about drilling a hole that large through a thin curved surface. The bit may start wandering and you may end up with a not so clean, bigger hole which you don't want.

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

Carbon said:
A 2" hole should work but I'm not so sure about drilling a hole that large through a thin curved surface. The bit may start wandering and you may end up with a not so clean, bigger hole which you don't want.

any ideas then?

Carbon · Aug 2, 2011

soapy_junk said:
any ideas then?

If I were doing this to my drum I'd use what I already have on hand, tool wise, and probably do this:

I would first trace an outline on the drum around the 1.5" nipple. Then I would drill a 3/4" hole in the middle. Then I would make multiple straight cuts with a zigsaw from the hole up to the outline like slicing a pie. I would then completely bend each tab back into the drum to form a round hole. The more slices you make and bend back the cleaner the hole will look.

soapy_junk · Aug 2, 2011

Carbon said:
If I were doing this to my drum I'd use what I already have on hand, tool wise, and probably do this:

I would first trace an outline on the drum around the 1.5" nipple. Then I would drill a 3/4" hole in the middle. Then I would make multiple straight cuts with a zigsaw from the hole up to the outline like slicing a pie. I would then completely bend each tab back into the drum to form a round hole. The more slices you make and bend back the cleaner the hole will look.

i like that.. just have to make sure the nipple is long enought to have thread outside for the elbow and inside for a locknut

Carbon · Aug 2, 2011

soapy_junk said:
i like that.. just have to make sure the nipple is long enought to have thread outside for the elbow and inside for a locknut

Chances are, the nipple will still be too long even with the shortest one you can find.

traderbbc · Aug 2, 2011

jcinadr said:
I really would not worry about the material on your grate bolts. You would be cremating your meat before they got hot enough to cause any problems. They will get coated in creosote anyway. You will never see them again if you put acorn nuts on them.

I prefer a smoke stack to prevent water from running into the it during a rain. Unlike a domed Weber lid - the entire lid of a barrel is lipped to collect water. That said, the flat lid will help keep your sauce warm.

Do care about what your nipples are made of - They will rust and make it impossible to remove the caps. Unless you are religious with oiling them - just use brass.

As for cleaning - use an ash pan. It is practically eliminates cleaning the bottom of the uds.

Actually I didn't even think of keeping the sauce warm that is a great idea. I live in Atlanta so we have walk out basements so my deck is about 12' high and I put flagstone under 1/2 of that which was a flat area then put the corragated metal panels under the bottom of the deck to act as a roof so I actually keep my lawn mower and other stuff under there as its totally dry. My barrel will be stored under there and since the roof is metal could actually drag the barrel out of the rain in the event it started to rain and keep smoking under the deck. Not using the nipples, doing the ball valve with a 2' extension because of my back, using round magnets that have a hook on them for the other 2 intake holes, 1 1/8 inch round magnets from Harbor Freight so I don't have to peel the flat ones off just need gloves to pull them off grabbing the hook, they were like 2.50 for 4.

Mike had replied buy a 2" hole saw but I have a step bit set so can easily do the other 5 holes with what I have.

Thanks to you and Mike for your suggestions, probably will go the weber route down the road but gonna start with the original design and make that decision later after I get some experience cooking.

Drumbum77 · Aug 2, 2011

After reading so many good things about the UDS, I decided to go ahead and build one. I guess one concern that I have is most of the food I am seeing produced by the UDS looks very dry. I also wonder how smokey the flavor is. I know it's a smoker and that's what it's supposed to do, but could some folks post more pictures of things that really cam out good. This might have already been asked, but with 500+ pages I might have missed it.

Also, can someone recomend a good but cheap thermometer?

Thanks ya'll.

Here are a couple of pics my progress....

I still need to add my basket, thermometer, and repaint it. It's been fun so far! :laugh:

Ugly Drum Smoker

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