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I built this thing while reading a few pages at a time of this thread before I joined.:lol:The more I read, the more I realized early mistakes, such as using the bottom piece of the bb-q pro grill. For a grill, it is probably great. There is just too much air gaps where the ash can slides in. NOT a tight fit. When I read about what little air intake was required I knew that the bottom spelled trouble.
I then thought I would re-invent the wheel. :roll: I cut a hole in what used to be the lid, which is the bottom now, that the base of my electric brinkman would tightly fit into. now that gave me the choice of electric or charcoal. Plus this give me the capacity of not just 2 but 4 grate levels by placing the body without the lid to the brinkman inside my UDS! :icon_shock1: This look great, and I had a lot of confidence that it would work like a dream. NO GO! It would not get past 175 degrees. After the failure I just fired up my charcoal starter and poured 1 load on top of a bottom of unlit coals with 2 pecan logs. GO GO GO! :cool: This worked perfect and put a smile on my face as I was able to control the temp so easy with quick results.
My legs for the UDS were made from two pieces of scrap flat metal that I had laying in my shop. I just cut them in half which made me 4- 20 inch pieces to use for legs. After I remove the BB-Q pro bottom and installed the brinkman base, I cut 7 inches off of the legs which lowered them to a very likable height. For intake, I am only using the hole that came with the brinkman for the electric eye slides through. I have been plugging it with foil as needed, but will use a refrigerator magnet next time per someone else's idea that I recently read about.
 
I am cooking right now for the second time. Mine is sensitive to the air inflow and I had to start using a regrigerator magnet over the intake holes to get down to the correct gap. Full open was too much and closed was too little. Glad I read about the magnets.
 
Radical Rick I just push 2 1/4" bolts between BBq pro ash pan and stamped "L"'s in base. I plugged the slide doors and use typical uds ball valve/nipple set up on my 85 gallon build. Works fine.
 
Radical Rick I just push 2 1/4" bolts between BBq pro ash pan and stamped "L"'s in base. I plugged the slide doors and use typical uds ball valve/nipple set up on my 85 gallon build. Works fine.
where exactly did you install the ball valves?
 
Here is the first 'Big belly Mod" I made for the people who were complaining about bending over and adjusting. I also have 3 capped 3/4" nipples.
Valve-1.jpg
 
Hey Norco... Question.

Do you need three 3/4" nipples plus the valve with a 85?
Just curious as to what the difference is regarding the intakes
with an 85 VS a 55.

Prolly stupid but... what about the standard eight hole exhaust?
Do the number of holes need to be increased or, perhaps opened up to 5/8"

Weiser
 
Do you need three 3/4" nipples plus the valve with a 85?
Just curious as to what the difference is regarding the intakes
with an 85 VS a 55.

Prolly stupid but... what about the standard eight hole exhaust?
Do the number of holes need to be increased or, perhaps opened up to 5/8"

Weiser
I actually use my "Redneck Guru" on this. I open one, valve open, start fire. Build temp, cap one, go 1/2 valve and turn on redneck guru and it controls nicely. I have a weber type lid so don't know on lid holes. i woyld go standard 8 1/2" to start. Easier to open up than replace material if not enough exhaust.
 
i like the headman stickers!! you a racer??
no, just know I guy named Mike that works for them. I do like racing. I sat in the Crown Royal suite at Talladega this past fall. Have been to more than 30 Nascar races there! :cool:
 
Wow. Finally made it through the entire thread. I've been plannig on building a Big Baby Double Barrel Smoker (and making it a triple), but due to time and mostly $$$, I decided to build one of these instead. I started my UDS last weekend and finished it up Tuesday night. Virgin cook last night, ABT's and 3 chickens. My dad was amazed on how well it turned out. I'm doing butt's this weekend. Can hardly wait. With that being said, I still have a few things to fine tune. I'm not happy with temp control. I hade a hard time last night keeping it below 290-300. I think it's my lid. It warped when I hit with the weed burner. Any suggestions for straightening that back out? I still have the ring that came with it, maybe just put that back on and clamp it down? Many thanks to all the great ideas! Norcoredneck and Smokin Gator : I used your guides, what an awesome reference to have in the garage while I was building it. I went with 3 3/4" nipples with a ball valve on 1. I cannablized an old CharBroil charcoal smoker I had laying around (btw, don't ever by one of those.. junk) for various parts like the handles and the grate mounts. I ended up using the two flimsy 16" grates for the charcoal basket, I bolted them together. I'm going to build a lid like Barbarian has on his UDS, just need to find a few more parts. Here's a few pic's:






Here's a link to my album with all the other build picture's I took:
http://picasaweb.google.com/punchdrunkid10t/BUDS?feat=directlink

Thanks again! I'll post more pic's when I build my new lid. Oh, do I get a badge or something for reading the entire friggin thread? :shock:
 
I got my 85 as some of you saw with Bubba. I drilled my 1 1/4" holes for my 1" nipples and low and behold the holes are too big. My first question is - how do I fill the gap? I thought about putting two mounting pieces and screwing them together through the side of the drum.

Next question - if you had a choice of drilling a 3" hole for a big stack, a 1 1/2 hole for a smaller stack or 8 small holes for exhaust - which would you choose?
 
I drilled my 1 1/4" holes for my 1" nipples and low and behold the holes are too big. My first question is - how do I fill the gap? I thought about putting two mounting pieces and screwing them together through the side of the drum.

If using conduit locking nuts won't they fill the gap?
 
Next question - if you had a choice of drilling a 3" hole for a big stack, a 1 1/2 hole for a smaller stack or 8 small holes for exhaust - which would you choose?

3" hole for a big stack
 
1. Magnets- cleaner looking, easier to do, easier to adjust
2. 2" should be fine unless you find yourself running more that 1 1/2" of total air intake. If you do then I would also be looking at high heat paint.
 
I got my 85 as some of you saw with Bubba. I drilled my 1 1/4" holes for my 1" nipples and low and behold the holes are too big. My first question is - how do I fill the gap? I thought about putting two mounting pieces and screwing them together through the side of the drum.

Next question - if you had a choice of drilling a 3" hole for a big stack, a 1 1/2 hole for a smaller stack or 8 small holes for exhaust - which would you choose?

Can't resist asking what you were drinking when you drilled 1 1/4" holes for 1" nipples????????
Either patch the holes, use (I think) JD McGee's method of a sliding cover or buy a new drum.
For the exhaust, I think I would go with the 8 holes unless you are in a situation like me where you need to exhaust the smoke out. If you want one big exhaust I would stick to 2" x 4" black pipe attached by 2" conduit nuts in the center of the lid.

And don't drill the exhaust holes if you have been drinking.
 
If using conduit locking nuts won't they fill the gap?

Conduit locking nuts are almost all galvanized. Can't find them any other way.

1. I told ya so.
2. The 2" exhaust is working great!
3. I told ya so. :cool:

1. Whatever
2. Yeah but you've been using 2" your whole life and look where that's got you.
3. Whatever
 
Chinese Bob, the galvanized conduit nuts on the intake nipples don't get hot. They are below the fire. I have felt the nipples while cooking and they have never been hot.
 
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