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Ugly Drum Smoker

AustinKnight said:
I need some help, Im looking for some latches to latch down my lid it doesn't seem to be closing all the way down and I've tried putting the lid on the drum and hitting it with a rubber mallet but one side of the lid still comes up. It just doesn't get a good seal like it did when I first stated using it, I've also tried bending the drum a lil but still no luck I was thinking if I could find 4 latches I could latch it down I don't know of the right ones I need but I know I've seen some uds's with them so any help would be great thx.
Click to expand...

This latch might work well:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6082a25 (zinc-plated steel)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6082a26 (stainless)
6082ap7l.gif


It's springy, it looks like it'd be about the right size, and it's load rated at 150 lbs. Should work nicely. Has anyone used this one? EDIT: It looks like a Southco. They make awesome latches. :thumb:

As for getting your lid to fit right: Have you tried tweaking the lid? Maybe it's warped...

-Rodney
 
Rodney said:
This latch might work well:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6082a25 (zinc-plated steel)
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6082a26 (stainless)
6082ap7l.gif


It's springy, it looks like it'd be about the right size, and it's load rated at 150 lbs. Should work nicely. Has anyone used this one? EDIT: It looks like a Southco. They make awesome latches. :thumb:

As for getting your lid to fit right: Have you tried tweaking the lid? Maybe it's warped...

-Rodney
Click to expand...

Thx for the links ill look into those latches as for the lid it looks flat still, when I got my drum it had water half way up it so I had to push it over to get the water out and to be able to move it so I'm almost positive I bent the drum a lil when pushed it over :redface: the lid could be a lil warped ill lay it on the porch and bag the crap out of it first and see if it helps.
 
AustinKnight said:
Thx for the links ill look into those latches as for the lid it looks flat still, when I got my drum it had water half way up it so I had to push it over to get the water out and to be able to move it so I'm almost positive I bent the drum a lil when pushed it over :redface: the lid could be a lil warped ill lay it on the porch and bag the crap out of it first and see if it helps.
Click to expand...

I used a hammer and tried to force the lid shut. While leaning over the top I pushed down and cought something that should not of been cought. Newho... Harbor Freight has some cheap latches that work great. They are $4 each and extremely adjustable. Use three or four of them and your worries are gone
 
Rodney

What kind of paint did you use on your uds in your avatar?

Sure is pretty:clap2:
 
Louisiana Smoker said:
I used a hammer and tried to force the lid shut. While leaning over the top I pushed down and cought something that should not of been cought. Newho... Harbor Freight has some cheap latches that work great. They are $4 each and extremely adjustable. Use three or four of them and your worries are gone
Click to expand...

This one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/200-lb-horizontal-toggle-clamp-96237.html
image_3509.jpg

I've seen those used before. I can see how they'd definitely be more adjustable than the ones from McMaster-Carr that I posted. I guess I just like the clean look of the other ones, but installing them just right could be a pain.
 
jhnarial said:
Rodney

What kind of paint did you use on your uds in your avatar?

Sure is pretty:clap2:
Click to expand...

Thanks! The drum is painted with whatever they use at the drum factory... I bought the drum new, unlined. When I bought the lid it had just been stamped from flat steel that morning here at my local drum distributor, and it was bare steel as well... Didn't even have gaskets, so I didn't have to dig 'em out! I shot that with gloss black ~500 degree engine block paint from Home Depot.

I should take another pic of the drum, now that it has handles on it... :thumb:

-Rodney
 
Paul B said:
Why oh why is your poor drum in jail????:confused::confused:

Paul B
SS UDS
Click to expand...

Keepin' the kids out, huh? I was tempted to do that, but then I figured it wouldn't get TOO hot and sear fingertips like a Weber can, so it'd be a good way to tell them "see, I told you so!" if they touched it after I told 'em not to. :wink: After I realized that it stays so cool that I can *just about* handle the lid bare-handed, I *really* didn't worry.

-r
 
AustinKnight said:
Thx for the links ill look into those latches as for the lid it looks flat still, when I got my drum it had water half way up it so I had to push it over to get the water out and to be able to move it so I'm almost positive I bent the drum a lil when pushed it over :redface: the lid could be a lil warped ill lay it on the porch and bag the crap out of it first and see if it helps.
Click to expand...

If the lid is tweaked, it'd probably work best to rest it across two high points (like bricks) at 12:00 and 6:00 and push gently with your hands at 3:00 and 9:00... it shouldn't take much. If you beat on it too much, you could permanently warp it... Just my $0.02.

-Rodney
 
colonel00 said:
Sadly that has seriously crossed my mind. Not so much the theft part but definitely the grocery cart part. And yeah, I know you can get replacement grates for under $20. The Walmart versoin is usually under $15. I was just trying to find new and creative yet cheap ways that maybe someone has come up with.
Click to expand...


I picked up Weber grates for about $9 when they were on clearance. It sounds like Home Depot or Lowes is starting to clear out their stock so you might want to keep an eye on those stores to see what you can come up with.
 
So, after reading this thread, I got my first barrel today and started cleaning the liner out. I've promised myself I wouldn't ask any noob questions until I have read this entire threat...just finished up page 37 (of 470) so I may be awhile. :) You guys are all great, thanks for the info!
 
I cooked some ribs this weekend and was going to use a rib rack but the last time I cooked ribs they were falling apart and they would not fit in the rack so I tried adding feet (four SS bolts, eight washers and eight nuts) to a rack and it just sits on top of the first one, no side bolts to get in the way of removing the racks.

73669_169832086362834_100000081325967_561762_6448896_n.jpg


I can still lay them flat without them touching and I have more room for ABTs :-D I added them later but I still had room after adding the ATBs for another rack. Here is a pic of the rack and ribs



73669_169832096362833_100000081325967_561765_1863320_n.jpg


Bonus, the feet work to set it on the table without the ribs touching the table. I think I might be able to put a third rack if the first one is low enough.
 
I have adjustable legs on my charcoal basket when it sets in the ash pan. On my first build I wanted the adjustment capability up and down to allow more or less air flow. Anyway, I welded 1/2 flat washers to the head of the 5/16 bolt which gives the leg a more sturdy base and prevents it from falling between the grates.

legg.jpg


ashpanbasket.jpg


doorframe2.jpg


I like the idea of putting legs on the grates in case you need to remove them and set it somewhere. Since I have adjustable shelf tracks I wouldn't need them to stack on top of each other.
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/5205/doorframe2.jpg
 
Rodney said:
If the lid is tweaked, it'd probably work best to rest it across two high points (like bricks) at 12:00 and 6:00 and push gently with your hands at 3:00 and 9:00... it shouldn't take much. If you beat on it too much, you could permanently warp it... Just my $0.02.

-Rodney
Click to expand...

Ahhh good idea ill try that instead of beating the crap out of it makes more sense :thumb:
 
boakley;144oo1385 said:
So, after reading this thread, I got my first barrel today and started cleaning the liner out. I've promised myself I wouldn't ask any noob questions until I have read this entire threat...just finished up page 37 (of 470) so I may be awhile. :) You guys are all great, thanks for the info!
Click to expand...

I'd ask away.....after all isn't it the reason forums are created in the first place.......to ask quesions no matter how many times it has been asked?? Everybody was a noobie at one time. I think after about the first fifty pages or so is just a whole lot of gooooood rehashing and great ideas, the basics are all that are needed.

Oh by the way..... I have read the entire thread.

Paul B
SS UDS
 
Well, I am on page 140 now. It's all great info and I don't want to miss anything. I've been busy burning, grinding and brushing the liner out anyway. Butt up in a drum with a wire wheel is a great time to reflect on the posts.

One question though...I have been thinking about putting 3 casters (1 locking) on the bottom of the drum after it's seasoned. If anyone has 3 casters on theirs, is it fairly stable? I guess I am thinking rolling it around (out of the garage, etc).
 
boakley said:
One question though...I have been thinking about putting 3 casters (1 locking) on the bottom of the drum after it's seasoned. If anyone has 3 casters on theirs, is it fairly stable? I guess I am thinking rolling it around (out of the garage, etc).
Click to expand...
3 wheelers were outlawed for a reason. If your going to put casters on it then put four.
 
You might as well put them on before seasoning too. That way you don't have to climb into a dirty barrel to attach them (assuming you are going to drill holes and bolt).
 
DON'T put rubber wheels on before the burnout - there is a post where someone did and burnt the rubber off.

I would not worry about 3 wheels. I keep my on 3 bricks and it is plenty stable.
 
jcinadr said:
DON'T put rubber wheels on before the burnout - there is a post where someone did and burnt the rubber off.

I would not worry about 3 wheels. I keep my on 3 bricks and it is plenty stable.
Click to expand...

So do I, but keep in mind that those three bricks contact the ground much further out from the center of the drum than three wheels would. That makes a huge difference. Plus, that stability is most important when you're rolling the drum across uneven surfaces, which we're obviously not doing with bricks.
 
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