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So two intakes can stay open all the time and the temp can be moderated with just one valve?? That is good to know. I thought the intake would be stronger than that, but this why I'm here...to learn from those that have walked the path before.

P.S. I'm pulling for a Pen's win tonight...I don't want this series to be over with yet!!

Actually 1 intake open and adjust with ball valve...3rd intake is for higher temp cooks (chicken) :biggrin:
Sorry about tonight, but it's over.....Be drinking from the cup TONIGHT!!! :cool:
 
Actually 1 intake open and adjust with ball valve...3rd intake is for higher temp cooks (chicken) :biggrin:
Sorry about tonight, but it's over.....Be drinking from the cup TONIGHT!!! :cool:
I have a feeling you're right about the cup, but I would love to see this great series continue. I hadn't watched them much before this, but the Wings are a very impressive team!

About the smoker...a little clarification needed. There are three intake valves. Two stay open all the time and one has the valve on it?
 
Barbarian
Love the Denver Broncos colors.

ipls3355
Where's the "I"?
There's a good source on drums down here in Mattoon for $10 each if you're in search for more.
Chris has this one right. My wife is an Illini fan, personally I originally hail from Austin, TX and was leaning toward burnt orange but to get her to agree to let me have another smoker I let her pick the colors.

Working on the I or a chief, I would prefer the chief.

Norcoredneck - I tried to use the setup you mentioned but my DeWALT 18v just didn't have enough guts to do it. So I ended up putting it on my tile saw. Little more work but it came out good.

afreemaniii
what did you use on the intake to regulate the flow of air?
I used 4 1/2" x 4" black pipe nipples. One has a ball valve and I have caps for the other 3. It was very easy to run 300 +/- 6 for 4 hours during the seasoning.
 
I used 4 1/2" x 4" black pipe nipples. One has a ball valve and I have caps for the other 3. It was very easy to run 300 +/- 6 for 4 hours during the seasoning.

Now I get it, thanks for the clarification. I'll post pics of mine once I get it done. We have our first competition this weekend, so it may be a week or two. You have definitely set the bar for me to aim for.
 
Keep it simple. One ball valve on a 3/4 and one 3/4 hole open is about all you will need.
 
Next time try one of these on a 1/2" threaded rod double nutted to capture. Use a drill and you can run it up and down inside .
91279.gif
Or one of these...

ji2s6u.jpg
 
I use flexible magnets to cover my air holes. nothing to get in the way of cleaning out the drum after cooks. They work great:icon_bigsmil
 
I have my Redneck Guru. Also Notley Q uses a guru if i remember right. You don't actually need one but you do need to rattle or kick can every so often to shake ash loose.
IMG_2612.jpg
 
Since this thread is so long.....

And it seems same questions keep coming up I am reposting some of my thoughts on UDS builds.

I have not made a drum with tall intakes. But I have tracked builds and first time uses. I noticed 2 things. People that use 1/2 nipples seem to have problems getting to higher temps and take longer to getup, or they compensate with starting a larger fire and make it through. The only long intake drums i have seen work from the get go are ones that use 1" pipe and magnets. I think N8's is like that. Others have used 3/4" and only 2/3 up cans that seem to get control, better with only 1 elbow. People that have intakes near or above top of can seem to have total caos. I have seen people make bigger exhaust and get better temps but I would bet they don't have control. You have to remember all this UDS stuff is modeled after a basic BDS. Ask Thirdeye how easy it is to control and change temps from first burn. Some might disagree but on this forum. I first spotted Mista's drum and one a member started making known as EDS (Eds Drum Smoker). Mistas worked for him but access door leaked and intakes were crude torch cut holes. The EDS used holes with welded in nuts and bolts to plug holes. He also had a door and had sealing issues. I made mine and put a valve on it for control I got the idea from reading about how Stumps smokers controlled temps by controlling air intake and limiting fire. I will tell you from my first burn on the only issues I have had was when i did a trash man slam with my drum and made it slightly out of round. I use the band clamp to seal lid now. The other issue I had was getting temps up and i attributed that to my charcoal drawing moisture. I went to a new bag and problem solved.

Not to say you can't learn to control what you have built but look at the simple builds and notice they are happy from the get go. Look at Swampb who uses conduit plugs much like BDS and he has made several and even passed them on and all are cooking fiends now. Look at NotleyQ and he is cranking out awesome grub time and time again. Look at the ones Smookin has built. Ask Fatdaddy about his drum. I think he was about to back over it with his truck and if i remember right he went twords the basics and learned to use what he made.

All this is just my opinion from following the threads.
It is fun to out cool the next guy but some things work and some don't. I just advise if you are limited on resources and want a cooker that the masses here can advise on, go simple basic build. It will make it through and produce great grub. And while it is chugging away you can work on the mother of all drums and come back and toss my opinions out the door.

Found EDS Ahh Modlemaker
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ds+drum+smoker


Neils first
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...=barrel+smoker

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...highlight=drum
 
Norco's opinion is great. I want to second it. When I did the Team UDS build couple of weeks ago KISS was the mantra of the build. Two guys had no low and slow experience one had a little.
list
8 bolts, nuts and washers
handle of your choice
2" pvc male adapter and 6 or 7" of pvc pipe
Fire grate and cooking grate for weber 22.5 " kettle
rebar tieing wire
expanded metal 6 or 7" X 48"
Temp gauge for the side
flexible magnets 2 of the guys used credit card magnets they recieved in the mail
drill 8 holes, three for the air intake three for the cooking grate support 2 in the lid for handle and hanger
Temp control has been great. all drums have a sweet spot for temps. On these drums it is easy to find.:icon_cool

KISS Baby
 
And it seems same questions keep coming up I am reposting some of my thoughts on UDS builds.

I have not made a drum with tall intakes. But I have tracked builds and first time uses. I noticed 2 things. People that use 1/2 nipples seem to have problems getting to higher temps and take longer to getup, or they compensate with starting a larger fire and make it through. The only long intake drums i have seen work from the get go are ones that use 1" pipe and magnets. I think N8's is like that. Others have used 3/4" and only 2/3 up cans that seem to get control, better with only 1 elbow. People that have intakes near or above top of can seem to have total caos. I have seen people make bigger exhaust and get better temps but I would bet they don't have control. You have to remember all this UDS stuff is modeled after a basic BDS. Ask Thirdeye how easy it is to control and change temps from first burn. Some might disagree but on this forum. I first spotted Mista's drum and one a member started making known as EDS (Eds Drum Smoker). Mistas worked for him but access door leaked and intakes were crude torch cut holes. The EDS used holes with welded in nuts and bolts to plug holes. He also had a door and had sealing issues. I made mine and put a valve on it for control I got the idea from reading about how Stumps smokers controlled temps by controlling air intake and limiting fire. I will tell you from my first burn on the only issues I have had was when i did a trash man slam with my drum and made it slightly out of round. I use the band clamp to seal lid now. The other issue I had was getting temps up and i attributed that to my charcoal drawing moisture. I went to a new bag and problem solved.

Not to say you can't learn to control what you have built but look at the simple builds and notice they are happy from the get go. Look at Swampb who uses conduit plugs much like BDS and he has made several and even passed them on and all are cooking fiends now. Look at NotleyQ and he is cranking out awesome grub time and time again. Look at the ones Smookin has built. Ask Fatdaddy about his drum. I think he was about to back over it with his truck and if i remember right he went twords the basics and learned to use what he made.

All this is just my opinion from following the threads.
It is fun to out cool the next guy but some things work and some don't. I just advise if you are limited on resources and want a cooker that the masses here can advise on, go simple basic build. It will make it through and produce great grub. And while it is chugging away you can work on the mother of all drums and come back and toss my opinions out the door.

Found EDS Ahh Modlemaker
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...ds+drum+smoker


Neils first
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...=barrel+smoker

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...highlight=drum

Simply farkin' awesome!! Thanks for consolidating all this information. I can't use the search function quite yet so it's nice of you to pull this in. I am getting more and more excited to get this built and post some pron.
 
Well, heck I'll play! I have a UDS 1.0 and just built UDS 2.0

UDS 1.0 has a 1-1/4" air inlet up the side of the drum made out of conduit and welded into place. It also has 3-1/2 "nippels welded 2" from the bottom of the barrel. the exhust was 3 feet high, but it was to high so i made it a 2" conduit 8" long welded in th bung hole.:lol: the basket is 14x6 and the grate is 6" from the top of the barrel the legth on the barrel is 48" tall.

The UDS 2.0 has four 1/2" nippels, one of the nippels has a 1/2" ball valve on it. the exhust is a 2" inch conduit sanded down and buffed with a polishing wheel, and held in the center of the lid with a 2" EMT set screw connecter. The nippels are 1-1/2" from the bottom of the barrel and are held together by lock rings. the basket is 14x6 and the grate sits 6" from the top of the barrel. the barrel is 43" tall. My fingers are tiered from typing so enjoy the pics.
 

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I'm just getting into making my first UDS.

What purpose or advantage does the longer inlet and outlet stacks serve?
 
I'm just getting into making my first UDS.

What purpose or advantage does the longer inlet and outlet stacks serve?

I'm not going to bad mouth either set-up but IMO the longer inlet and exhaust are more for looks.
 
They do look very cool but for my first UDS I'll keep it simple.

I'll chrome one out and add DUB's after I can prove to myself I can build my first one.

I think I can. I think I can. I think I can.
 
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