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Nice job, HL&S! My next go, I may do the same. I built my first last weekend and can't get over how long a basket of lump lasts. I decided to let it burn itself out last night and it had other ideas about it. After burning for over 24 hrs at 230, it is still holding steady! One thing I haven't figured out, the bark on my meat isn't quite what it was on my offset. It doesn't get hard and crusty, but stays soft and moist. I have also noticed when I pull the lid to turn the meat that there is quite a bit of condensate on the bottom of the lid. Anybody else have similar things?


Yep...had her loaded to the gills with 5 dozen chicken thighs on two racks last week and it was runnin down all sides!

Before...

IMG_4013.jpg


After...

IMG_4025-1.jpg
 
I've been thinkin'...has anyone tried putting an access panel on their drums...ala WSM? It would have helped a lot last weekend when I was having' issues burning lump in my briq basket. I've got a few more drums laying around I can chop up...I think I'll come up with a sketch and see what you guys think.

Only prob i see is that the door has to be airtite, hard to do, for any air leakage will negate the long, controlled burn time we are able to achieve.

Nice job, HL&S! My next go, I may do the same. I built my first last weekend and can't get over how long a basket of lump lasts. I decided to let it burn itself out last night and it had other ideas about it. After burning for over 24 hrs at 230, it is still holding steady! One thing I haven't figured out, the bark on my meat isn't quite what it was on my offset. It doesn't get hard and crusty, but stays soft and moist. I have also noticed when I pull the lid to turn the meat that there is quite a bit of condensate on the bottom of the lid. Anybody else have similar things?

What are you using for an exhaust?
Are you burning to much wood or getting "bad" smoke?
 
I've been thinkin'...has anyone tried putting an access panel on their drums...ala WSM? It would have helped a lot last weekend when I was having' issues burning lump in my briq basket. I've got a few more drums laying around I can chop up...I think I'll come up with a sketch and see what you guys think.


Yes air tight is the issue on thin gage with a curve , if you have a roller and some trial and error time I'm sure you can get the metal matched up but then you will need to work out a way to fasten it and make it easy to operate as well

thats why I chose the open bottom the seal is air tight! I got a 35 hour burn with 12 lbs of kingsford, could have gone longer but i wanted to clear the ash and cook more
 
I've been thinkin'...has anyone tried putting an access panel on their drums...ala WSM? It would have helped a lot last weekend when I was having' issues burning lump in my briq basket. I've got a few more drums laying around I can chop up...I think I'll come up with a sketch and see what you guys think.

Yep.
 
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Yes air tight is the issue on thin gage with a curve , if you have a roller and some trial and error time I'm sure you can get the metal matched up but then you will need to work out a way to fasten it and make it easy to operate as well

No worries matching the curve...I've got plenty of identical drums to play with.:biggrin:

thats why I chose the open bottom the seal is air tight! I got a 35 hour burn with 12 lbs of kingsford, could have gone longer but i wanted to clear the ash and cook more


Thanks for the ideas Mark...:idea:
 
JD you were right as usual that basket STILL needs more holes. I may just cut most of the bottom our and use a grate.
 
JD you were right as usual that basket STILL needs more holes. I may just cut most of the bottom our and use a grate.

That's my plan as well...eventually. I rarely use lump in the drum and the basket (as is) works great for Kingsford briqs.
 
I was cutting holes into it today and put a small load of lump in and had shake it several times. I usually use a mixture of both with the other basket and it runs fine.
 
Ok, Started on Drums 2 and 3. Burned them out really well, but went to use the wire brush on the angle grinder and it sounded like thunder. Would drilling the holes into the bottom make it quieter?

Bought 1 inch pipe but forgot to get the 1 1/8" stepdown so tried to cut out the holes with the torch. That was a mistake, or I need to put on a smaller torch tip....

Learning is never easy, but always fun.
 
Yes air tight is the issue on thin gage with a curve , if you have a roller and some trial and error time I'm sure you can get the metal matched up but then you will need to work out a way to fasten it and make it easy to operate as well

thats why I chose the open bottom the seal is air tight! I got a 35 hour burn with 12 lbs of kingsford, could have gone longer but i wanted to clear the ash and cook more


Have you thought about a wood heater gasket.
just a thunk.
 
Ok, Started on Drums 2 and 3. Burned them out really well, but went to use the wire brush on the angle grinder and it sounded like thunder. Would drilling the holes into the bottom make it quieter?
I don't think so just get after it and do it in the open. Try cutting a stainless beer keg, now you're making noise.:grin: I can send you some ear plugs if you need them.
 
Ok, Started on Drums 2 and 3. Burned them out really well, but went to use the wire brush on the angle grinder and it sounded like thunder. Would drilling the holes into the bottom make it quieter?

Bought 1 inch pipe but forgot to get the 1 1/8" stepdown so tried to cut out the holes with the torch. That was a mistake, or I need to put on a smaller torch tip....

Learning is never easy, but always fun.


I would recommend not having your head in the drum while using the wire wheel

a moving blanket wrapped around the drum does help as does clamping it to a heavy workbench
 
3/4" expanded steel

For anyone in the Long Island area building a UDS, I bought a 4'x8' piece of 3/4" expanded steel for burn containers. PM me if you are looking for some.
 
I had to cut the rolled edge off the top of the drum for the Weber to fit. I laid a bead of High-temp silicone gasket on the lid for a more secure fit. The lid that came with the drum needs a little persuading but still fits.


Is it okay to use a silicone when cooking food? The silicone doesn't give off any toxins when heated?
 
Flame On!!!

This has been a great discussion for the budget constrained BBQ fanatic (me). Thanks to everyone that has provided details and humor here! I'm hoping my questions below will help more than just me.

The Scenario: I finally built "the standard" 55gal UDS w/leverlock- 4 6"x1/2" steel pipe air intakes, 8 1/2" exhaust holes in lid, 16" expanded steel coal basket 2" off bottom, 1 grill 6" down from top. The first cook went reasonably well, just 2 (very large) slabs of spares cut into ribs and 'chine' (plus about 8lbs of lump and 8large hickory chunks). I tried the 3-2-1 method for the first time (I've never foiled ribs before when cooking on a side burner smoker). I discovered where the thermo is (a remote digital w/the probe hanging just below the grate) is critical; dropped from 230 to 190 only 1hr into the cook. I opened vents and it dropped more. I finally opened it up and moved the probe 3" toward the side and temp was 400+. OK. Shut all vents and plugged 6 exhaust holes and got that under control. At 2hrs I thought I should turn the ribs and so shut all intakes for 5min then opened it back up. Before I could get both turned I had flames out the top of the drum; ALL the dripping caught fire.

Overall, the ribs had a great flavor and were done OK - a bit dark in some spots, a bit over done in others. Sadly they lacked a deep smoke flavor (only the outer "crust" had much smoke). And worst, they fatty layer (around the rib 'tips') had not rendered out. Not pleasant eating

The Questions:
1) Is it common for the center temp to drop while the "sides" don't?
2) Is it common to get a flare up like I got? Or was that because I let it get so hot earlier.
3) How does one get more smoke into meat when you can't just throw some wood on the coals?
4) How does one get a longer cooking time when directly over coals so more fat will render - but not over cook the meat (other than the obvious 'lower temp')?

Thanks for any and all advice. I promise some pr0n from the next cook in return.

<BillyG>
 
Sounds to me like your thermo was outta whack. The center is normally hotter then the sides but not by 200* and not the other way around. I don't see how opening the vents could drop the temp with more air getting in.
Did you have the hickory on top of the lump or buried? I think you want the smoke early in the cook not later.
Not sure about shutting the vents down before taking the lid off. The fire was getting starved of air then you gave it a rush of air. Isn't that the backdraft type thing that happens in building fires?

So to your questions
1. no
2. I think you did the backdraft thing
3. put the wood on top to start with
4. if you keep it at 225 you should not need more cooking time the meat is plenty far enough away from the fire in a UDS
 
Is it okay to use a silicone when cooking food? The silicone doesn't give off any toxins when heated?

Hi-temp (red) silicon is what I use and some silicones are NSF rated. so yeah it's safe, once cured. If you manage to burn the stuff, maybe some bad $hit, but you'd really have to screw up to accomplish that.
 
BillyG;

Use more wood and dont foil for more smoke flavor. I only use wood and mix types for desired smokiness. Also consider experimenting with a partial heat shield between the fire and the meat. One more thing, learn the craft with cheap meat ; not ribs.
 
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