New Pitmaker Safe, Anyone cooked on one?
- Thread starter WhiskeyPigBbq
- Start date
Hozman
Take a breath!
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Talking about air leaks one thing one of us did was put a brick on the exhaust then lit a piece of wood and went around the doors and such looking for leaks. Once we got to the intake slide door smoke was sucked in like a vacuum. It was drafting so well and with the slide door having a little play air is getting in.
Whiskeypig I will get you some pics when I get back over where the pit is stored
Whiskeypig I will get you some pics when I get back over where the pit is stored
WhiskeyPigBbq
Knows what a fatty is.
Well fired up the Pitmaker this morning to do 3 shoulders. I used high temp duct tape to seal the intake around the guru adapter. I lit using only a chimney of lump and I gradually moved the Guru temp up to make sure the pit temp wouldn't shoot over the temp I had the guru set for. When I reached 225 I put water in as reccomended. I have been playing with damper on the fan all day trying to find a sweet spot. I have had to reload the lump twice using a chimney at a time. I just wrapped the shoulders and look to be on the home stretch.
The good thing is the temps never spiked! I did hover over the pit all day but that is to be expected when learning a new smoker. Tomorrow I am loading it up with ribs and we will see how that goes.
The good thing is the temps never spiked! I did hover over the pit all day but that is to be expected when learning a new smoker. Tomorrow I am loading it up with ribs and we will see how that goes.
I had the same experience as you on my first couple cooks. After that, I found I could control the temp to below 200. Here is my routine:
1. Clean the cooking area
2. Fill the water pan completely full (until it starts to spill over).
3. Fill the charcoal box to the top leaving a small amount of room in the back corner.
4. Fill the back corner with 8 briquettes started in a chimney.
5. Put the charcoal basket in & close the intake to about 1/8, leave the exhaust fully open.
6. Temp stabilizes around 200, slowly open a fraction of an inch to get desired temp.
7. Add wood chunks & meat.
That's it... I burn through a full basket in about 4 hours & use a full 20lbs last cook (1 brisket & 2 racks of ribs).
It takes a long time to heat up with the full water pan and a barely opened damper, but it doesn't overshoot temp. I add water every time I add charcoal. Without water, it's gone as high as 450 degrees.
I don't use a controller, but emailed pitmaker to ask about buying one along with any instructions that may come with a new safe (bought my safe used) and had zero response... If you can't answer email, don't publish an email address.
1. Clean the cooking area
2. Fill the water pan completely full (until it starts to spill over).
3. Fill the charcoal box to the top leaving a small amount of room in the back corner.
4. Fill the back corner with 8 briquettes started in a chimney.
5. Put the charcoal basket in & close the intake to about 1/8, leave the exhaust fully open.
6. Temp stabilizes around 200, slowly open a fraction of an inch to get desired temp.
7. Add wood chunks & meat.
That's it... I burn through a full basket in about 4 hours & use a full 20lbs last cook (1 brisket & 2 racks of ribs).
It takes a long time to heat up with the full water pan and a barely opened damper, but it doesn't overshoot temp. I add water every time I add charcoal. Without water, it's gone as high as 450 degrees.
I don't use a controller, but emailed pitmaker to ask about buying one along with any instructions that may come with a new safe (bought my safe used) and had zero response... If you can't answer email, don't publish an email address.
El Ropo
Quintessential Chatty Farker
I don't see a reason to have a mass of water in a nice insulated cooker to keep the temps down.
An air leak is an air leak. You should be able to limit the oxygen enough to control temps. Just like a UDS, or a WSM or BGE for that matter, with no water. I'm confused, and would really like to see one of these setups in person, or at least see pics of how the draft controller connects to the intake, etc..
Something is out of whack, and I refuse to think a mass of water is gonna fix the problem. :twitch::wacko::boxing:
For the people who are using these, have you tried to run them sans draft controller? I haven't seen an answer to this question yet. Ya should be able to control air via the intake manually.
An air leak is an air leak. You should be able to limit the oxygen enough to control temps. Just like a UDS, or a WSM or BGE for that matter, with no water. I'm confused, and would really like to see one of these setups in person, or at least see pics of how the draft controller connects to the intake, etc..
Something is out of whack, and I refuse to think a mass of water is gonna fix the problem. :twitch::wacko::boxing:
For the people who are using these, have you tried to run them sans draft controller? I haven't seen an answer to this question yet. Ya should be able to control air via the intake manually.
BigDaddyJT
Full Fledged Farker
I own a PM Safe and have tried many ways to keep the temp below 250. The pits are well made, extremely insulated and they love to cook hot if you don't add water. The only way I have found to keep temps @ 225-245 is to use Kingsford Blue and water in the pan. You don't need much fuel. They are very efficient, especially once they reach your desired cooking temp. For instance, I cooked (2) 13lbs briskets @ 235-245 last weekend (11 hr cook) and used a total of 9-10lbs of briquettes. The key to low and slow on these units is how you start your fire. It is critical that you catch your temp on the way up. Once the pit passes your desired temp, the only way to bring it down is to open the cook door to cool off the chamber and remove the burning charcoal from the unit...No bueno. Below is the method I use for a 235-245 deg fire. I do not use a forced air draft system (Stoker, Guru, etc). I've found these pits work better w/ out forced air systems.
1. Open your exhaust 100% and open both air intakes 100% as well. My unit is one of the original models and has 2 sliding air intakes. The newer units only have 1 sliding air intake.
2. Fill your water pan w/ water (I like use boiling water if possible).
3. Add 10-15 briquettes to the back left corner of the ash pan and start w/ a weed burner. If you do not have a weed burner, start the charcoal in a charcoal chimney and when they start to turn grey add them to the charcoal tray as noted. Leave the charcoal door open 2-3 inches to allow a good flow of air into the coals.
4. Next take the weed burner and heat the cooking chamber for 2-3 minutes. Pass the wand over each cooking grate. This will help to clean off the left over grease and fat and get your temps going. Again if you do not have a weed burner, you will need to increase the amount of briquettes to approx 20-25, leave your charcoal door open 5+ minutes and allow more time for the pit to get hot.
5. Close your cook chamber and charcoal chamber door.
6. By now you should see your temps close to 150-160 degrees on the door thermometer.
7. When your thermometer reaches 200, close your exhaust to 1/2 open and close one of your air intake sliding doors completely and the other close to 1/2 open. If your pit only has the 1 sliding air intake, close it to 1/2 open. Once your temp hits 225 close your exhaust to 1/3 open and close your air intake slide to 1/2" (thickness of a book of matches) and your on the right track. At this point all 10-15 charcoals should be glowing and ashed over.
8. Next, add a single row of charcoals along the inside edge of your charcoal tray making sure they touch each other and that 1 briquette comes in contact w/ the lit charcoals. It should form a U shape. This will start the "domino" affect. You can add small chunks of your favorite wood every 5 coals. This will keep you in the 235-245 area for about 3-4 hours. Once you see the temp drop to 225, open your charcoal door, move all the remaining lit charcoals to the left back corner and make another single row of briquettes creating a U shape. At this point you will need to add water to the pan again. You will see some 10 degree spikes during the cooking process, but I've been able to hold consistant temps using this method. PM me if you need any additional info, always willing to help if I can. Good luck. They do cook some good grub once you figure them out.
1. Open your exhaust 100% and open both air intakes 100% as well. My unit is one of the original models and has 2 sliding air intakes. The newer units only have 1 sliding air intake.
2. Fill your water pan w/ water (I like use boiling water if possible).
3. Add 10-15 briquettes to the back left corner of the ash pan and start w/ a weed burner. If you do not have a weed burner, start the charcoal in a charcoal chimney and when they start to turn grey add them to the charcoal tray as noted. Leave the charcoal door open 2-3 inches to allow a good flow of air into the coals.
4. Next take the weed burner and heat the cooking chamber for 2-3 minutes. Pass the wand over each cooking grate. This will help to clean off the left over grease and fat and get your temps going. Again if you do not have a weed burner, you will need to increase the amount of briquettes to approx 20-25, leave your charcoal door open 5+ minutes and allow more time for the pit to get hot.
5. Close your cook chamber and charcoal chamber door.
6. By now you should see your temps close to 150-160 degrees on the door thermometer.
7. When your thermometer reaches 200, close your exhaust to 1/2 open and close one of your air intake sliding doors completely and the other close to 1/2 open. If your pit only has the 1 sliding air intake, close it to 1/2 open. Once your temp hits 225 close your exhaust to 1/3 open and close your air intake slide to 1/2" (thickness of a book of matches) and your on the right track. At this point all 10-15 charcoals should be glowing and ashed over.
8. Next, add a single row of charcoals along the inside edge of your charcoal tray making sure they touch each other and that 1 briquette comes in contact w/ the lit charcoals. It should form a U shape. This will start the "domino" affect. You can add small chunks of your favorite wood every 5 coals. This will keep you in the 235-245 area for about 3-4 hours. Once you see the temp drop to 225, open your charcoal door, move all the remaining lit charcoals to the left back corner and make another single row of briquettes creating a U shape. At this point you will need to add water to the pan again. You will see some 10 degree spikes during the cooking process, but I've been able to hold consistant temps using this method. PM me if you need any additional info, always willing to help if I can. Good luck. They do cook some good grub once you figure them out.
BigDaddyJT
Full Fledged Farker
I own a PM Safe and have tried many ways to keep the temp below 250. The pits are well made, extremely insulated and they love to cook hot if you don't add water. The only way I have found to keep temps @ 225-245 is to use Kingsford Blue and water in the pan. You don't need much fuel. They are very efficient, especially once they reach your desired cooking temp. For instance, I cooked (2) 13lbs briskets @ 235-245 last weekend (11 hr cook) and used a total of 9-10lbs of briquettes. The key to low and slow on these units is how you start your fire. It is critical that you catch your temp on the way up. Once the pit passes your desired temp, the only way to bring it down is to open the cook door to cool off the chamber and remove the burning charcoal from the unit...No bueno. Below is the method I use for a 235-245 deg fire. I do not use a forced air draft system (Stoker, Guru, etc). I've found these pits work better w/ out forced air systems.
1. Open your exhaust 100% and open both air intakes 100% as well. My unit is one of the original models and has 2 sliding air intakes. The newer units only have 1 sliding air intake.
2. Fill your water pan w/ water (I like use boiling water if possible).
3. Add 10-15 briquettes to the back left corner of the ash pan and start w/ a weed burner. If you do not have a weed burner, start the charcoal in a charcoal chimney and when they start to turn grey add them to the charcoal tray as noted. Leave the charcoal door open 2-3 inches to allow a good flow of air into the coals.
4. Next take the weed burner and heat the cooking chamber for 2-3 minutes. Pass the wand over each cooking grate. This will help to clean off the left over grease and fat and get your temps going. Again if you do not have a weed burner, you will need to increase the amount of briquettes to approx 20-25, leave your charcoal door open 5+ minutes and allow more time for the pit to get hot.
5. Close your cook chamber and charcoal chamber door.
6. By now you should see your temps close to 150-160 degrees on the door thermometer.
7. When your thermometer reaches 200, close your exhaust to 1/2 open and close one of your air intake sliding doors completely and the other close to 1/2 open. If your pit only has the 1 sliding air intake, close it to 1/2 open. Once your temp hits 225 close your exhaust to 1/3 open and close your air intake slide to 1/2" (thickness of a book of matches) and your on the right track. At this point all 10-15 charcoals should be glowing and ashed over.
8. Next, add a single row of charcoals along the inside edge of your charcoal tray making sure they touch each other and that 1 briquette comes in contact w/ the lit charcoals. It should form a U shape. This will start the "domino" affect. You can add small chunks of your favorite wood every 5 coals. This will keep you in the 235-245 area for about 3-4 hours. Once you see the temp drop to 225, open your charcoal door, move all the remaining lit charcoals to the left back corner and make another single row of briquettes creating a U shape. At this point you will need to add water to the pan again. You will see some 10 degree spikes during the cooking process, but I've been able to hold consistant temps using this method. PM me if you need any additional info, always willing to help if I can. Good luck. They do cook some good grub once you figure them out.
1. Open your exhaust 100% and open both air intakes 100% as well. My unit is one of the original models and has 2 sliding air intakes. The newer units only have 1 sliding air intake.
2. Fill your water pan w/ water (I like use boiling water if possible).
3. Add 10-15 briquettes to the back left corner of the ash pan and start w/ a weed burner. If you do not have a weed burner, start the charcoal in a charcoal chimney and when they start to turn grey add them to the charcoal tray as noted. Leave the charcoal door open 2-3 inches to allow a good flow of air into the coals.
4. Next take the weed burner and heat the cooking chamber for 2-3 minutes. Pass the wand over each cooking grate. This will help to clean off the left over grease and fat and get your temps going. Again if you do not have a weed burner, you will need to increase the amount of briquettes to approx 20-25, leave your charcoal door open 5+ minutes and allow more time for the pit to get hot.
5. Close your cook chamber and charcoal chamber door.
6. By now you should see your temps close to 150-160 degrees on the door thermometer.
7. When your thermometer reaches 200, close your exhaust to 1/2 open and close one of your air intake sliding doors completely and the other close to 1/2 open. If your pit only has the 1 sliding air intake, close it to 1/2 open. Once your temp hits 225 close your exhaust to 1/3 open and close your air intake slide to 1/2" (thickness of a book of matches) and your on the right track. At this point all 10-15 charcoals should be glowing and ashed over.
8. Next, add a single row of charcoals along the inside edge of your charcoal tray making sure they touch each other and that 1 briquette comes in contact w/ the lit charcoals. It should form a U shape. This will start the "domino" affect. You can add small chunks of your favorite wood every 5 coals. This will keep you in the 235-245 area for about 3-4 hours. Once you see the temp drop to 225, open your charcoal door, move all the remaining lit charcoals to the left back corner and make another single row of briquettes creating a U shape. At this point you will need to add water to the pan again. You will see some 10 degree spikes during the cooking process, but I've been able to hold consistant temps using this method. PM me if you need any additional info, always willing to help if I can. Good luck. They do cook some good grub once you figure them out.
rabeb25
Full Fledged Farker
Just so you know, every pitmaker I have seen (5+) the door thermo is off (not the thermo itself, its due to placement of it) by at least 20-40 degrees. So add that to the temps you are cooking at, which makes sense looking at your cooking times.
BigDaddyJT
Full Fledged Farker
Mine is off 20-25 degrees on the high side. 275 at the door thermometer is 250 at the middle of the center cooking grate. 250 @ the door is 230 at the at the middle of the center cooking grate. For me as long as I'm between 250-275 at the door, I'm golden.
Kenny Rogers
Full Fledged Farker
Great thread! Green Drake was right, I'm paying close attention!
El Ropo
Quintessential Chatty Farker
rabeb25
Full Fledged Farker
BRBBQ
Babbling Farker
Baby Stumps with the IQ110, was truley a set it and forget for me, Nice Pit by the way:thumb:
W
whiteboycustom
Guest
does anyone have some photos of a guru adapter installed on a pitmaker?
the reason i ask is i have a contender jr from pits by jj and would like to add a guru to it
the reason i ask is i have a contender jr from pits by jj and would like to add a guru to it
gooose53
Full Fledged Farker
Do you mean Stubbs briqs?
ROF Texas
Knows what a fatty is.
Over $2,500.00 and modifications/very special attention is required to make this cooker perform properly????? Pretty has nothing to do with it!!!!
It's all about learning your tools. I tried BigDaddyJT's charcoal loading method this weekend (u-shaped charcoal instead of just filling the basket to the top) & used significantly less fuel... I've always been a stick burner, so I had to learn how to cook low & slow with charcoal while also transitioning from an offset smoker.
My Safe cooks at a very stable temp with no fuss. There isn't a single thing I would change about its design & I would recommend it to anyone (though I bought mine used for a lower price). My only complaint is that they don't answer emails.
My Safe cooks at a very stable temp with no fuss. There isn't a single thing I would change about its design & I would recommend it to anyone (though I bought mine used for a lower price). My only complaint is that they don't answer emails.
WhiskeyPigBbq
Knows what a fatty is.
Well after last weekends smoke of 10 St Louie's the temp never spiked. Although getting it up to 225 was a chore. This had a alot to do with me being gun shy of the temp spiking. Also I found that leaving the fan damper wide open until I get up to temp and then shutting it down to about 25% about 25° below your target temp.
I am ordering a new cyber q wifi unit next week because I am tired of running outside and checking the temp all of the time. I expect I will find the sweet spot sooner or later, I guess I was spoiled by how easy my UDS's were.
I am ordering a new cyber q wifi unit next week because I am tired of running outside and checking the temp all of the time. I expect I will find the sweet spot sooner or later, I guess I was spoiled by how easy my UDS's were.
Kenny Rogers
Full Fledged Farker
Try calling them, they are always willing to help out, but email seems to be a weak link sometimes...
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