Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
I think N8man did his best to simplify it from the original.
Life itself is complex.:biggrin:
Life itself is complex.:biggrin:
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working on DNS.. links may break temporarily.
If a Redneck wanted to build a UDS
- Thread starter Norcoredneck
- Start date
B
Barbarian
Guest
ChineseBob, I think they are trying to say 8 holes out near the outside edge of the lid.
N8man
Babbling Farker
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I was torn between the Alignments of either Pig or Ram to True Magnetic North. Which would best guide me in my Quest to the Mysterious Yin and Yang of the Sweet Blue?I think N8man did his best to simplify it from the original.
Life itself is complex.:biggrin:
I Feel The Love, by the way...
sampson
is one Smokin' Farker
N8man, I hope you feel the love from Utah baby, that template helped me so much!!! I went and had it blown up and then laminated and have now used it on four drums. Thanks again:mrgreen:
N8man
Babbling Farker
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Not Meaning to Hijack Norco's Thread but Thanks Bro. That's why I Shared it in the First Place, Brother Helping Brother in Our Search For The Sweet Blue Truth. The Unity of the Brethren Collective, One's Knowledge Shared Becomes One's Insight Gained.:wink:
Norcoredneck
somebody shut me the fark up.
Divide drum into 3 sections
Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.
Layout Intake holes.
I chose 2" from bottom.
Layout Gauge hole.
I chose 9" (1" below lower rack)
Centerpunch marks.
Drill pilot holes.
Drill holes for Intake nipples
I use 1" which lets you thread 3/4" nipple (clean round hole)
Drill out holes for Grate supports
I am going to use 1/4" bolts. I use Unibit to get clean holes in thin metal.
Open up hole for gauge.
I use 3/4" hole which is a tight fit for a 1/2" pipe thread.
Thread in 3/4" close nipples
I use cap to protect threads and screw in as far as possible.
This link will show alternative to welding nipples.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=40
Weld in Nipples
Install 3/4" ball valve.
__________________
Install grate supports.
I use this set up. I go hex head in. It seems to keep grate from slipping off when setting in. Also nice when you spin grate.
I use 1 3/4" for top and 2" for bottom.
Install gauge.
Again use conduit nut that comes with gauge to lock in.
Add Handles (optional)
I got these at Home Depot in the Hardware isle by garage door section. Little tip pre-bend ears with pliers past radius of drum so they will bend and hug drum when tightened.
Making Charcoal basket
This is the toughest part. I start with a replacement charcoal grate from a 18.5" weber kettle. I purchased at Home Depot
This is a view of legs. I chose 1/2" bolts 3 1/2" long. I use 2 washers and 2 nuts to capture grate.
I use a piece of 3/4 #9 expanded metal 8" wide X 44" long.
I pre bend it.
Attach it to weber grate. I welded but you can use wire and twist and bolt where overlaps.
Here is it complete
Reworking Lid
The last part would be to drill 8ea. 1/2" holes equally spaced in flat lid. I am using Weber Kettle lids so I am providing pic. of first UDS I built. Some lids have a 2" threaded bung opening that people have threaded pipe intoto make a smoke stack. Here is a link to examples.
Now only thing missing is a couple of 22" Weber grills and you are ready to cook.
Layout grill holes.
I chose 1 3/4"" and 8" from top. You should assess the drum you are using.
Layout Intake holes.
I chose 2" from bottom.
Layout Gauge hole.
I chose 9" (1" below lower rack)
Centerpunch marks.
Drill pilot holes.
Drill holes for Intake nipples
I use 1" which lets you thread 3/4" nipple (clean round hole)
Drill out holes for Grate supports
I am going to use 1/4" bolts. I use Unibit to get clean holes in thin metal.
Open up hole for gauge.
I use 3/4" hole which is a tight fit for a 1/2" pipe thread.
Thread in 3/4" close nipples
I use cap to protect threads and screw in as far as possible.
This link will show alternative to welding nipples.
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/sh...2&postcount=40
Weld in Nipples
Install 3/4" ball valve.
__________________
Install grate supports.
I use this set up. I go hex head in. It seems to keep grate from slipping off when setting in. Also nice when you spin grate.
I use 1 3/4" for top and 2" for bottom.
Install gauge.
Again use conduit nut that comes with gauge to lock in.
Add Handles (optional)
I got these at Home Depot in the Hardware isle by garage door section. Little tip pre-bend ears with pliers past radius of drum so they will bend and hug drum when tightened.
Making Charcoal basket
This is the toughest part. I start with a replacement charcoal grate from a 18.5" weber kettle. I purchased at Home Depot
This is a view of legs. I chose 1/2" bolts 3 1/2" long. I use 2 washers and 2 nuts to capture grate.
I use a piece of 3/4 #9 expanded metal 8" wide X 44" long.
I pre bend it.
Attach it to weber grate. I welded but you can use wire and twist and bolt where overlaps.
Here is it complete
Reworking Lid
The last part would be to drill 8ea. 1/2" holes equally spaced in flat lid. I am using Weber Kettle lids so I am providing pic. of first UDS I built. Some lids have a 2" threaded bung opening that people have threaded pipe intoto make a smoke stack. Here is a link to examples.
Now only thing missing is a couple of 22" Weber grills and you are ready to cook.
Last edited:
Brauma
somebody shut me the fark up.
I'm giddy with anticipation. What's next? :mrgreen:
JD McGee
somebody shut me the fark up.
Is it done yet...is it done yet...is it done yet...??? :twisted: Good job Norco...:biggrin:
Hook_Line_and_Sinker
is Blowin Smoke!
This pictorial tribute to the basic Ugly Drum Smoker construction, as executed by one of the Brethren master craftsmen is outstanding!
Armed with Norcoredneck's pictorial guide and and N8man's layout diagram. ANYONE wishing to build their first drum should have no problem achieving success
First time builders should heed the words - keep it simple
Consider that for a small investment in time and money, you will produce a fine smoker!
These literally can be built and used the same day.
Armed with Norcoredneck's pictorial guide and and N8man's layout diagram. ANYONE wishing to build their first drum should have no problem achieving success
First time builders should heed the words - keep it simple
Consider that for a small investment in time and money, you will produce a fine smoker!
These literally can be built and used the same day.
N8man
Babbling Farker
- Joined
- May 9, 2007
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Again, an Excellent Tutorial!!! Now, We need to see that Bad Boy Fired Up and Smoking, Please.:-D
R
rocksteadyfreddy
Guest
fellas,
I know this is several months old, but I am ready to rock and roll on this project. Found some reconditioned drums from an oil place for 26 bucks each. going to do a burn next weekend and get my supplies up. i'll post pics of the build, and sweet delicious smoked porky goodness as well.
godspeed and good smokin'
freddy
I know this is several months old, but I am ready to rock and roll on this project. Found some reconditioned drums from an oil place for 26 bucks each. going to do a burn next weekend and get my supplies up. i'll post pics of the build, and sweet delicious smoked porky goodness as well.
godspeed and good smokin'
freddy
R
rocksteadyfreddy
Guest
Also,
where is the best place to get some expanded metal from?
freddy
where is the best place to get some expanded metal from?
freddy
Meat Burner
Quintessential Chatty Farker
freddy, you can get the expanded metal at HD or Lowes but it is not cheap and light weight. Go to a local metal fabricating shop and you can get a lot heavier metal and real cheap, if not free from their cut off pile.
B
boothguy
Guest
Is it okay to use oil barrels? I am curious if using an oil barrel could be hazardous to your health or would cause problems with flavor? I have been looking for a food quality barrel that had not been used for petroleum products. I found a "green" recycler that sells heavy duty food quality barrels used only once for $30.
Any thoughts or reports?
Any thoughts or reports?
SmokeWatcher
is one Smokin' Farker
I prefer oil drums...they have no liner and the oil burns off easily during construction. Other chemicals I'd have to think twice about though.
Last edited:
B
boothguy
Guest
I may have to try that then. I can find used once oil barrels for $10 locally but would have to drive 100 miles to get a food quality one that probably has a liner in it for 30 dollars.
I definitely would not use one that was used for pesticides or weed spray but oil would burn off. I had heard that oil remains in the steel for some time but if it is used elsewhere it may be okay to use.
Thanks for the reply.
I definitely would not use one that was used for pesticides or weed spray but oil would burn off. I had heard that oil remains in the steel for some time but if it is used elsewhere it may be okay to use.
Thanks for the reply.
Smoke & Beers
is Blowin Smoke!
Check if your oil barrel supplier has food grade oil or mineral oil barrels...those are the safest. If you have any food manufactures in the area, they may have a barrel for you too.
B
boothguy
Guest
I have been looking through some web sites concerning carcinogens in oils that would be shipped to a fuel oil/lubricant dealer and it appears to me that a barrel that was used to deliver hydraulic oil would be relatively safe. In most cases, hydraulic oils do not contain much if any carcinogenic materials. AS the oil is not used as a lubricant many of the additives that are in motor oils are not present. I checked out safety sites from AmsOil, Mobil, etc and found that carcinogen is not listed as a hazard in their hydraulic fluid.
Of course it is best to be very cautious in selecting the barrel and the oil dealer is required to carry the safety sheets of any of their oil products and should be checked before purchasing a cheap barrel. Food barrels would always be the safest to use as they cannot be used more than one time before being disposed of but lately, most food quality barrels are now made out of recyclable plastic and a steel barrel may become difficult to find in the future.
In any case, it is very important to always check to see what the barrel was used for before making a decision to use it to smoke your food. Burning out the barrel is always necessary no matter what sort of barrel you find.
STAY SAFE
Of course it is best to be very cautious in selecting the barrel and the oil dealer is required to carry the safety sheets of any of their oil products and should be checked before purchasing a cheap barrel. Food barrels would always be the safest to use as they cannot be used more than one time before being disposed of but lately, most food quality barrels are now made out of recyclable plastic and a steel barrel may become difficult to find in the future.
In any case, it is very important to always check to see what the barrel was used for before making a decision to use it to smoke your food. Burning out the barrel is always necessary no matter what sort of barrel you find.
STAY SAFE
SCPossum
Knows what a fatty is.
I picked up a 2" temperature gauge for 8.00 shipped off of EBAY yesterday.
C
cvan
Guest
dang i'm going to have to add a UDS. I likes I likes .
Thanks for making that look simple and all those picts in on spot.
Thanks for making that look simple and all those picts in on spot.
