OK, I've been reading this thread for 3 days now (slow reader) and am curious if a person could use 3 check ball valves instead of 1 and 2 caps? I have 3 drums in my posession and I'm gettin ready to build.
 
OK, I've been reading this thread for 3 days now (slow reader) and am curious if a person could use 3 check ball valves instead of 1 and 2 caps?

Yes, you can but there really is no advantage. Most folks start with both caps off and the valve wide open. As the temp rises, one cap goes on - then the other cap goes on, then the valve is gradually closed to reach the desired temp. Only one inlet is adjudted so only one valve is required (cheaper that way).

If you have 3 drums then buy 3 valves, put them all on one drum and see how you like it. You will then have the option of removing two of the valves and putting them on your other drums, Whats to lose??
 
Yes, you can but there really is no advantage. Most folks start with both caps off and the valve wide open. As the temp rises, one cap goes on - then the other cap goes on, then the valve is gradually closed to reach the desired temp. Only one inlet is adjudted so only one valve is required (cheaper that way).

If you have 3 drums then buy 3 valves, put them all on one drum and see how you like it. You will then have the option of removing two of the valves and putting them on your other drums, Whats to lose??


I agree :thumb:
 
OK, I've been reading this thread for 3 days now (slow reader) and am curious if a person could use 3 check ball valves instead of 1 and 2 caps? I have 3 drums in my posession and I'm gettin ready to build.

I'm sure one ball valve is all you need...... but......I have two, cost another $14. I think it's kinda funny, because I use both, say I have one valve opened at 3/4 and my temp starts to drop, I open the second one maybe just a crack, the coals get a little bit of air from a different direction and the temp goes back up then I shut the second valve down. Temps stabilize again and I'm cookin. Just my .002 :-D
 
i like full adjustability, 3), 1" valves, I think it provides a more even and balanced air flow to the charcoal basket, Plus it's adjustable not just open/closed.
 
I was getting ready to go and buy a smoker until I came across this page and now all I can think about is making one of these and as soon as I do I will post pics.
 
Just finished my first one. Thanks to everyone who posted advice in the first 50-ish pages of this thread, haha, after that I just had to get up and get after it.

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She is UGLY. I kind of goofed and didn't install the 4th nipple I bought, but I've got my first cook going right now and the temp is alright. I got a really beat up old lid for it, which doesn't seal (even after pounding out the edges).

My only question is about the charcoal basket: I went to home depot to get expanded steel, and I came home with a small-ish pre cut piece. Is it too narrow of a cylinder? I started this first cook with ~55 coals and there's still about two feet between the top of the coals and the bottom grate, so I may have just answered my own question.

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Cut the expanded metal in 1/2.weld or wire the ends together and make a larger diameter basket.
Yours looks like it has a dia. of 7 1/2 " X 24 " tall.
You'll end up with a basket 14 1/2 " diameter x 12" tall, iff you cut it.:thumb:
 
OK, here's my next question that I haven't seen answered in the thread. Anyone leave the 2 bung hole caps on the top of the barrel, turn it upside down and make that the bottom for the ability to remove the caps to drain the grease, water etc from the drum?
 
OK, here's my next question that I haven't seen answered in the thread. Anyone leave the 2 bung hole caps on the top of the barrel, turn it upside down and make that the bottom for the ability to remove the caps to drain the grease, water etc from the drum?

That's a neat idea. Try it out and let us know how it works.
 
OK, here's my next question that I haven't seen answered in the thread. Anyone leave the 2 bung hole caps on the top of the barrel, turn it upside down and make that the bottom for the ability to remove the caps to drain the grease, water etc from the drum?

Some people do it exactly like that for other reasons.
First of all a weber lid will more than likely fit like a glove on the bottom end of a open headed drum. much smaller diameter than the open end. Flip the barrel over end remove the bottom,hammer and chisel,grinder,reciprocating saw etc. Replace the original flat lid and band clamp for a good seal and your ready to rock. And like you said, id would make clean out a lot simpler.
 
I was getting ready to go and buy a smoker until I came across this page and now all I can think about is making one of these and as soon as I do I will post pics.


i was about to do the same thing as soon as its built you will never think about buying another again uds all the way
 
OK, here's my next question that I haven't seen answered in the thread. Anyone leave the 2 bung hole caps on the top of the barrel, turn it upside down and make that the bottom for the ability to remove the caps to drain the grease, water etc from the drum?


I put pure clay kitty litter in the bottom of the drum before I cook to soak up the grease and a shop vac to clean it out later. The bungs on the bottom would probably make it an easy clean without a vac.:cool:
 
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OK, here's my next question that I haven't seen answered in the thread. Anyone leave the 2 bung hole caps on the top of the barrel,
turn it upside down and make that the bottom for the ability to remove the caps to drain the grease, water etc from the drum?

Side access makes for easy clean ups and drainage :thumb:

sideaccess.jpg
 
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