Competition Trailer Advice

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bdodd444

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I have finally decided (well pretty close) on an Interstate brand 6X12 enclosed trailer with a ramp. I will most likely still unload my UDS’s and cook under ez ups outside, but I would like to retain the flexibility of working inside in really inclement weather. My teammate (teenage daughter) and I will sleep in it. I plan on doing what work I can. I have read a lot of posts on ramp or doors, AC options etc, but I still have a few questions I would appreciate some input on:

1) Flooring: The trailer has ¾ inch plywood floors. I have seen suggestions ranging from porch paint to vinyl tiles.

2) Walls: 3/8 inch plywood. I was thinking of painting with a white porch paint. I really liked my buddies at 3EYZ’ vinyl walls. Has anyone installed the vinyl walls themselves or have a recommended supplier or another suggestion over paint?

3) Electric: I am looking at adding just a 120volt service to run some lights and a portable AC unit (8K BTU). Any better suggestions?

4) Windows: I was thinking of adding a window or two. I was thinking of going to an RV dealer to do it. Anyone else do this, or should I not mess with it?

5) Insulation: Is this a do it yourself thing or even necessary? I have seen other forums about enclosed trailers having condensation on the inside, so would this help hurt or non issue?

6) Any general tips on layout, gadgets or general order of work would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Brian
 
You interior wall you could cover with the pre finished masonite. The kind you see in some older bathrooms. Just glue it on with construction adheasive and a few nails. Cleans up with just a simple wipe and is only 1/4" thick so you wont loose much room.
 
bdodd444 said:
I have finally decided (well pretty close) on an Interstate brand 6X12 enclosed trailer with a ramp. I will most likely still unload my UDS’s and cook under ez ups outside, but I would like to retain the flexibility of working inside in really inclement weather. My teammate (teenage daughter) and I will sleep in it. I plan on doing what work I can. I have read a lot of posts on ramp or doors, AC options etc, but I still have a few questions I would appreciate some input on:

1) Flooring: The trailer has ¾ inch plywood floors. I have seen suggestions ranging from porch paint to vinyl tiles.

2) Walls: 3/8 inch plywood. I was thinking of painting with a white porch paint. I really liked my buddies at 3EYZ’ vinyl walls. Has anyone installed the vinyl walls themselves or have a recommended supplier or another suggestion over paint?

3) Electric: I am looking at adding just a 120volt service to run some lights and a portable AC unit (8K BTU). Any better suggestions?

4) Windows: I was thinking of adding a window or two. I was thinking of going to an RV dealer to do it. Anyone else do this, or should I not mess with it?

5) Insulation: Is this a do it yourself thing or even necessary? I have seen other forums about enclosed trailers having condensation on the inside, so would this help hurt or non issue?

6) Any general tips on layout, gadgets or general order of work would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Brian
Click to expand...



I just spent twp months researching the same issues and hope I can help you.

1) Flooring: The trailer has ¾ inch plywood floors. I have seen suggestions ranging from porch paint to vinyl tiles.

I stayed with marine plywood because I ultimately thought I would have grease on the floor and it would be a pain to clean up and not slip.

2) Walls: 3/8 inch plywood. I was thinking of painting with a white porch paint. I really liked my buddies at 3EYZ’ vinyl walls. Has anyone installed the vinyl walls themselves or have a recommended supplier or another suggestion over paint?

I went with vinyl walls and had the manufacturer install them. I figured it was worth the cost and time to have them do it.

3) Electric: I am looking at adding just a 120volt service to run some lights and a portable AC unit (8K BTU). Any better suggestions?

I added a 30amp hookup to run flo-lights and AC/Heat Strip

4) Windows: I was thinking of adding a window or two. I was thinking of going to an RV dealer to do it. Anyone else do this, or should I not mess with it?

I went with a side access door and did not go with the window option. I asked myself, why? If you don’t have a side-door (I would recommend
), then you may want to consider it.

5) Insulation: Is this a do it yourself thing or even necessary? I have seen other forums about enclosed trailers having condensation on the inside, so would this help hurt or non issue?

I went with the ceiling insulation which was standard given the addition of an AC/Heat unit. I guess it depends on geographic location and you mentioned you would be sleeping in it. Id probably go with it. May be a PIA if you have the vinyl walls installed.

6) Any general tips on layout, gadgets or general order of work would be appreciated.

Consider cabinets for storage and a workbench. Pitpals.com has some cool options that you can install yourself.
 
We learned a few things with our first trailer.

1. Size matters :). 6x12 is smaller than you think. Ours was a 6x12 v-nose. It worked, but it was tight. A 6x12 has a usable inside width of about 70 inches. If you put in a 30" deep prep table you have about 40" of space between the table and the wall. That can be tight. Also, if you are going to use cots to sleep, a typical cot is 30" so if you have two cots side by side you have 10" between. I would lay out a 6x12 area in you yard or garage and block out your equipment for both transport and when cooking to see how it fits.

2. Height matters. Most trailers aren't designed to stand up in. I had ours built 6' 6" inside height and wish I had gone to 7'. With lighting on the ceiling I would barely clear the fluorescent bulbs ( I'm 6' 2").

3. Most trailer manufacturers will add things like windows or electrical service for you. We had RC Trailers build ours and their prices for a 30a electrical service with a shore cord, a breaker panel, fluorescent lights and outlets was pretty reasonable. I could have done it cheaper, but they did a professional job and all of the wiring was inside the walls. I should have also added a couple of outlets on the outside of the trailer for convenience.

4. We had two sliding RV windows with screens installed, one on each side. They were great! They allowed natural light in and being able to open them gave s a nice breeze. We also had the standard door replaced with an RV door with a window and screen door. That was a great decision as well.

5. Flooring and walls. We had rubber coin flooring in ours. It's not cheap, but it was easy to clean, provided good footing and some padding. In bad weather you will track water into the trailer and tile floors can get slippery. Our walls were white panels(not sure of the material) and were much easier ti clean that plywood.

I hope that this helps. I have pictures of our trailer and I'll post a link but it will be late tonight.
 
Brian,

Just go get an Extreme already! With all that money you are getting from those speaking engagements, you should be able to get one bigger than ours........:loco::loco::loco::loco::loco:
 
Thanks for all of the responses and keep them coming. I know the 6X12 is going to be tight. I was considering a 7x14, but I am really trying to keep our footprint small. Main thing is to keep things loaded between comps to save some time. Chris I appreciate your confidence in my public speaking abilities, but I am answering to a higher authority (and she's better lookin!). You guys are the best!
 
Our first enclosed trailer was the 6x12 Insterstate. It was a nice trailer for hauling but not for working out of. How tall are you? If over about 5'7" it requires a lot of ducking to get in and out. If over 5'11" your head will likely hit while standing inside unless dead center then it might only brush - assuming standard height trailer. If I remember right the interior is about 68.5 across. Stab jacks will be necessary if u r going to work out of other wise you might run into a problem when not hitched up. Not something to test out with a knife in hand.

Before putting in work of elect, walls n flooring it might make sense to make sure that size will work for you.
 
How about a .063 aluminum diamond plate for the floor? Easy cleanup and it's reflective so it makes the most use of available light... plus slip resistant...
you'd have to put a seam in it, because they come in 4x10 sheets, but easy enough to screw down. A 4x10 sheet currently runs $100.00...

Personally, I think you should skip the windows, it's just another entry point for water...

There's my 2C
 
  • Thanks
Reactions: pat
I used a 6 x 12 for the last two years and a 10 x 10 ez up with drums. I used e-track down both sides with hooks to hold my drums and refrigerator in place while traveling. When I get to a comp i set up the ez up and drag the drums out and set up a Sam's table inside the trailer for all of my prepping.

I am around 5' 10" - 11" and the interior is 6', and I have only had a problem with bumping my head when going through the side door or exiting the ramp (which i only use to load and unload).

I bought a cheap 4' florescent light at a home store and drilled it in to the ceiling over where I put the prep table and it provides a lot of light and travels well. For electrical I went to a trailer store and bought a round 3" access door and installed it near the floor to run power in to the trailer. I also installed a carbon monoxide detector in to the ceiling just in case....I would prefer to wake up in the morning. :)

If you can get the RV door I would do it because they are nicer and they aren't as obvious when left unlocked. I have had dogs, kids, drunks, public, and other competitors (the ones I don't know) just help themselves and walk in to my trailer when the bar wasn't closed or the door was propped open.
 
I would highly recommend to splurge on a rooftop A/C. I went with a Coleman "power saver" model which only draws 9 amps instead of over 15 amps like most others. It was a little more but well worth it. It will also allow you to keep the trailer at 120/V which is nice so you dont pop breakers at comps that have poor power. I would also highly recommend insulation. I'm in south Florida so insulation was a must. I used that thin silver insulation that looks like aluminum foil and comes in a roll. It is only 1/4" thick but has a higher R value than the 3/4" foam insulation. As far as condensation on the inside of the trailer I have not had an issue with that. just my 2 cents hope it helps.
 
Oh boy, where to begin....

1) Flooring: The trailer has ¾ inch plywood floors. I have seen suggestions ranging from porch paint to vinyl tiles.

I went with the peel-n-stick floor tiles with about a half dozen coats of sealer on top. Now I can spill, track in mud, water, etc an dit just mops right up.

2) Walls: 3/8 inch plywood. I was thinking of painting with a white porch paint. I really liked my buddies at 3EYZ’ vinyl walls. Has anyone installed the vinyl walls themselves or have a recommended supplier or another suggestion over paint?

3/8" is a bare minimum as you will eventually want to sink hooks, eyes, screws into the walls. Your choice of finish.

3) Electric: I am looking at adding just a 120volt service to run some lights and a portable AC unit (8K BTU). Any better suggestions?

I would stronlgy recommend that at least some of your lighting be 12v and have a deep cycle on board the trailer. Several times I've been to comps where the AC goes out and a lot of trailers go dark. I usually don't even realize the power went out until knocks on the door and asks if my power went out too.

4) Windows: I was thinking of adding a window or two. I was thinking of going to an RV dealer to do it. Anyone else do this, or should I not mess with it?

I had two slider windows installed in the work area opposite each other. Really is nice for the breeze and it makes a huge difference to be able to look out. It seems to open up the interior somehow. I love 'em.

5) Insulation: Is this a do it yourself thing or even necessary? I have seen other forums about enclosed trailers having condensation on the inside, so would this help hurt or non issue?

Yes, yes, yes, yes. Get insulation. Ceiling, walls, floor (if you can). It makes a HUGE difference. Not just for temperature (although that is huge), but for sound/noise also. I can't tell you how many times at a comp that I'm trying to get a little sleep and there's a full blown party going on next door. Insulation goes a lon gway to help knock down the noise.

6) Any general tips on layout, gadgets or general order of work would be appreciated.

Try to install cabinets, counters, etc so things are 'at hand' as much as possible. Try to keep your 'digging around' time as small as possible.

Here's what mine started out as:
P4170121.jpg


Here's what it has ended up being so far:
P1150162.jpg


This is a 8.5x18 and I truly wish I had gone with a 8.5x20.

Russ
 
RK, that is a clean setup, I am looking to build the same thing this year. Bueno rig.
 
rksylves said:
Oh boy, where to begin....

1) Flooring: The trailer has ¾ inch plywood floors. I have seen suggestions ranging from porch paint to vinyl tiles.

I went with the peel-n-stick floor tiles with about a half dozen coats of sealer on top. Now I can spill, track in mud, water, etc an dit just mops right up.

2) Walls: 3/8 inch plywood. I was thinking of painting with a white porch paint. I really liked my buddies at 3EYZ’ vinyl walls. Has anyone installed the vinyl walls themselves or have a recommended supplier or another suggestion over paint?

3/8" is a bare minimum as you will eventually want to sink hooks, eyes, screws into the walls. Your choice of finish.

3) Electric: I am looking at adding just a 120volt service to run some lights and a portable AC unit (8K BTU). Any better suggestions?

I would stronlgy recommend that at least some of your lighting be 12v and have a deep cycle on board the trailer. Several times I've been to comps where the AC goes out and a lot of trailers go dark. I usually don't even realize the power went out until knocks on the door and asks if my power went out too.

4) Windows: I was thinking of adding a window or two. I was thinking of going to an RV dealer to do it. Anyone else do this, or should I not mess with it?

I had two slider windows installed in the work area opposite each other. Really is nice for the breeze and it makes a huge difference to be able to look out. It seems to open up the interior somehow. I love 'em.

5) Insulation: Is this a do it yourself thing or even necessary? I have seen other forums about enclosed trailers having condensation on the inside, so would this help hurt or non issue?

Yes, yes, yes, yes. Get insulation. Ceiling, walls, floor (if you can). It makes a HUGE difference. Not just for temperature (although that is huge), but for sound/noise also. I can't tell you how many times at a comp that I'm trying to get a little sleep and there's a full blown party going on next door. Insulation goes a lon gway to help knock down the noise.

6) Any general tips on layout, gadgets or general order of work would be appreciated.

Try to install cabinets, counters, etc so things are 'at hand' as much as possible. Try to keep your 'digging around' time as small as possible.

Here's what mine started out as:
P4170121.jpg


Here's what it has ended up being so far:
P1150162.jpg


This is a 8.5x18 and I truly wish I had gone with a 8.5x20.

Russ
Click to expand...

Thanks very much Russ. Awesome Rig, can you tell me how you finished your walls? They look great, I just can't tell from the photo. Also, what type of sealer did you use over your peal and stick tiles? Can you just pick up the tiles at a HD or Lowes?

Thanks to everyone with the great information. I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't bump up to a 7X14 after reading a lot of this. It may be out of my budget and a little bigger than I want to deal with, ahhh decisions, decisions. I really like the interstate brand, but a jump to 7X14 is an additional 2K.
 
Ron_L said:
We learned a few things with our first trailer.

1. Size matters :). 6x12 is smaller than you think. Ours was a 6x12 v-nose. It worked, but it was tight. A 6x12 has a usable inside width of about 70 inches. If you put in a 30" deep prep table you have about 40" of space between the table and the wall. That can be tight. Also, if you are going to use cots to sleep, a typical cot is 30" so if you have two cots side by side you have 10" between. I would lay out a 6x12 area in you yard or garage and block out your equipment for both transport and when cooking to see how it fits.

2. Height matters. Most trailers aren't designed to stand up in. I had ours built 6' 6" inside height and wish I had gone to 7'. With lighting on the ceiling I would barely clear the fluorescent bulbs ( I'm 6' 2").


3. Most trailer manufacturers will add things like windows or electrical service for you. We had RC Trailers build ours and their prices for a 30a electrical service with a shore cord, a breaker panel, fluorescent lights and outlets was pretty reasonable. I could have done it cheaper, but they did a professional job and all of the wiring was inside the walls. I should have also added a couple of outlets on the outside of the trailer for convenience.

4. We had two sliding RV windows with screens installed, one on each side. They were great! They allowed natural light in and being able to open them gave s a nice breeze. We also had the standard door replaced with an RV door with a window and screen door. That was a great decision as well.

5. Flooring and walls. We had rubber coin flooring in ours. It's not cheap, but it was easy to clean, provided good footing and some padding. In bad weather you will track water into the trailer and tile floors can get slippery. Our walls were white panels(not sure of the material) and were much easier ti clean that plywood.

I hope that this helps. I have pictures of our trailer and I'll post a link but it will be late tonight.
Click to expand...

I TOTALLY agree with each point here (however, I have no experience with the rubber coin flooring - but it looks great and I have no doubt about Ron's opinion!). I presently have a 6 x 12 and am in the process of trading up for all of the reasons Ron mentioned. DO get the windows! An enclosed trailer feels, well, REALLY enclosed without them! That's one of the first things on my list! Also, the RV door with screens is going to be a MUST! I found this trailer on line a couple of days ago. It's not for sale, but it seems almost ideal to me. It is a 7 x 14.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/cdnsubmariner/ottawa2006100.jpg

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/cdnsubmariner/ottawa2006111.jpg
 
Another thing to remember about the 6x12 Interstate trailer. After the weight if the trailer the axel only allows for about another 1300 lbs. (at least single axle load runner) the weight of diamond plate, wall sheeting (ESP FRP) and AC or other possibly electrical can start adding up fast. The good new is ur using barrels and not heavy insulated cookers so it's possible. Just put some thought into what's going in and what it weighs.
 
Check out Thumper Talks forum. I dont have the link but you can do a search for enclosed trailer ideas. I believe the thread has about 40 pages with alot of DIY interiors. They are not set up for comps but It will give you some ideas on things you can do.
 
Curly Tails said:
Check out Thumper Talks forum. I dont have the link but you can do a search for enclosed trailer ideas. I believe the thread has about 40 pages with alot of DIY interiors. They are not set up for comps but It will give you some ideas on things you can do.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's where the links I posted take you...:thumb:
 
The walls are covered with a vinyl type wallpaper (Lowe's) that allows me to wipe down any splatters or injection squirts. I just made sure that all the plywood screws were countersunk real good and just gave it a rough sand-down with a palm sander.

The floor tiles (Lowe's) are elcheapo peel/stick ones and the floor sealer (Lowe's) is one that the tile manufacturer recommends. I just sort of damp mopped it down waited 10 minutes for it dry and went again. I did about 5 or 6 coats.

The cabinets/counters are SUPER cheapy ones from a local scratch & dent warehouse. The microwave and fridge are refugees from my daughter's dorm room.

The point to all of this is that it can be done really cheaply if your willing to shop around, be creative, and do the work yourself. I should have the bathroom finished this weekend. I can post a couple pix of it and the rest of the man cave if interested.

Russ
 
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