Dang it I knew that I was not using my brain as usual, So the harbor freight Knockout punches will work just fine then.

Thing to remember is that the HF punch set is FOR conduit. What this means is that a 3/4" conduit punch will be for a clearance hole (@1 1/16') instead os the 1" hole required to thread the pipe in.
 
Arizona is nothing but desert. What are they worried about burning? Or is it a pollution issue?
 
Arizona is nothing but desert. What are they worried about burning? Or is it a pollution issue?

Everything is so dry here and stuff likes to catch on FIRE:icon_devil. Thats why So Cal and Arizona have so many state wide fires in the summer time.
 
Thing to remember is that the HF punch set is FOR conduit. What this means is that a 3/4" conduit punch will be for a clearance hole (@1 1/16') instead os the 1" hole required to thread the pipe in.

So the punches in the Harbor Freight are all 1/16th over so would not work for my purpose. I guess I am back to the step bit for drilling the 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples.
 
So the punches in the Harbor Freight are all 1/16th over so would not work for my purpose. I guess I am back to the step bit for drilling the 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples.
Missed your need, enlighten me and maybe I can suggest a method, got enough holes in my head I know a little about makin'em:biggrin:
 
Missed your need, enlighten me and maybe I can suggest a method, got enough holes in my head I know a little about makin'em:biggrin:

I just wanted an easy full proof way to make the three 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples (Intakes) in the UDS I am about to build.

If I used a punch I would need a 1" inch chassis punch Correct. Since they are sized in real dimensions
 
I just wanted an easy full proof way to make the three 1" hole for the 3/4 pipe nipples (Intakes) in the UDS I am about to build.

If I used a punch I would need a 1" inch chassis punch Correct. Since they are sized in real dimensions

Correct. Like anything quality name brand are expensive. I prefer to use a hole saw myself. For those looking for unibits/stepdrills. Enco tools has a couple of sets on sale. I have a catolog at work and will post part numbers/links tonight. I have made lierally hundreds of holes using this hole saw and it will do more. Buy starret or milwakee. Sp?
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Here is my first build, kept it basic. I smoked a 3-2-1 fattie in it last night after it had been seasoning for 6 hours, think the temp was a little high it was ok but a little overdone. Now I just need to get to Costco and get some ribs.
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Still a little rust in the bottom, it is really cleaner than it looks (wire brushed to to bare metal), after I Pam'd the in side it made it look black and red, reflections I guess.
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Made my handle out of a chunk of purple heart I had, did a rough dove tail, wish I would have made the handle run over the sides... next time. The lid came from another drum so the fit was not tight so I just clamped it.
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I have cooked on my uds a couple of times. each time i got some water standing in the bottom of the drum.my smoke has a foul smell to it also using kingsford and some small chunks of hickory. smoke smells like burning paper.
 
I have cooked on my uds a couple of times. each time i got some water standing in the bottom of the drum.my smoke has a foul smell to it also using kingsford and some small chunks of hickory. smoke smells like burning paper.

Are you controlling the temperature with the bottom inlets while leaving the top vents fully open. If so, do the top vents have more opening area than the bottom inlets?
 
What's it cost to sand blast a barrel? If it's not too much, might go that route on barrel #2.
 
Call around and get some quotes. I'm going the sand blasting route, myself. I have found prices from $30.00 to $40.00 for sandblasting the inside and outside down to bare metal.
 
Call around and get some quotes. I'm going the sand blasting route, myself. I have found prices from $30.00 to $40.00 for sandblasting the inside and outside down to bare metal.


i was just asking about this on the previous page. I am going to sanblast mine as well to bare metal. After i get it back from the sandblaster what should i do immediately to keep the barrel in good condition leading up to my very first smoke on a UDS.
 
i was just asking about this on the previous page. I am going to sanblast mine as well to bare metal. After i get it back from the sandblaster what should i do immediately to keep the barrel in good condition leading up to my very first smoke on a UDS.
As an old sheet metal handler you have to do one of two things with raw bare steel or iron. You either have to paint it or oil it to keep it from rusting.

For a barrel, once you get to bare, paint it outside and grease or pam it well on the inside. You can heat it up later but it must have some kind of coating to keep it from rusting. It can stay unheated for a relatively long time with just a fat coating but eventually the fat will go rancid if not seasoned in, if that happens you just wash it out well with soap and water and rub id down again with the fat of your choice.

The science behind doing a seasoning burn is to carbonize the hydrocarbons in the fat to provide a tough almost non-stick layer baked onto the drum. The same way you would season a black iron skillet or Dutch oven.

The best seasoning is done in the 400 - 500 degree range but not much over or you too much of a burned smell and may flash fire the oil and not really get the desired effect. The pores in the metal are opened well up to accept the coating as it fills in the tiny little pockets that are created giving it something adhere well to.

Just my .02, hope it helps,

Smoke on!
 
Keep it next to your bed!!! :biggrin::biggrin:

Just kidding......surface rust won't hurt any thing or you could spray it down with pam until your first time......

Paul B
SS UDS
 
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