promad
Knows what a fatty is.
anybody got a list or know of a basic list for parts for building a uds ?
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
Nuco59
Babbling Farker
re: anybody got a list or know of a basic list for parts for building a uds ?
Promad - I don't know if I've seen an actual "shopping list" with items/descriptions and quantities laid out. If you have read any of the "how I did it's" in this thread, most authors will tell you what they used and you will see a lot of ingenuity (and pride) in what was used and how. Looking over the very basic K.I.S.S. UDS as outlined in Norcoredneck's http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43943 will give you about all the info you could need as far as the basics go.
From what I've seen UDS's are pretty similiar since "form follows function":a handful of nuts/bolts, a drum, lid w/exhaust, cooking grate(s), fire basket, air inlets at the bottom with some means of controlling the air coming in. The differences between folks uds's are (mostly) minor- some are blinged out, have wheels, shelves and all sort of personal features-but at their heart are pretty much the same.
I built one of the very basic KISS versions- liked it so much I built another...exactly like it. I did cheap out and use sheet magnets instead of ball valves- but I'm surely not the only one :-D
Promad - I don't know if I've seen an actual "shopping list" with items/descriptions and quantities laid out. If you have read any of the "how I did it's" in this thread, most authors will tell you what they used and you will see a lot of ingenuity (and pride) in what was used and how. Looking over the very basic K.I.S.S. UDS as outlined in Norcoredneck's http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43943 will give you about all the info you could need as far as the basics go.
From what I've seen UDS's are pretty similiar since "form follows function":a handful of nuts/bolts, a drum, lid w/exhaust, cooking grate(s), fire basket, air inlets at the bottom with some means of controlling the air coming in. The differences between folks uds's are (mostly) minor- some are blinged out, have wheels, shelves and all sort of personal features-but at their heart are pretty much the same.
I built one of the very basic KISS versions- liked it so much I built another...exactly like it. I did cheap out and use sheet magnets instead of ball valves- but I'm surely not the only one :-D
RT
Full Fledged Farker
R
R8ter87
Guest
I am having a heck of a time getting my UDS up to temp. 
I have 3 3/4 inch intakes, one is just a straight nipple with a cap and the other 2 have an elbow with a 2 foot pipe and a ball valve.
The intake holes are drilled 3 inches from the bottom.
The lid has 4 3/4 exhaust ports.
My charcoal basket is a Weber 18.5 charcoal grate as a base and 16 gauge expanded metal welded to it.
I added 4 inch tall legs to the bottom of the basket. I have attached a picture of both my barrel and charcoal basket.
I have tried methods such as lighting a few briquettes and adding to the top and letting them burn down.
Also today I light a whole chimney of coal and poured them on the bottom and add the unlit coals to these.
Both of the methods failed to get the temp up after waiting at least a half hour.
My best guess is to eliminate the legs on my basket? I'm baffled anything will help thanks.
I have 3 3/4 inch intakes, one is just a straight nipple with a cap and the other 2 have an elbow with a 2 foot pipe and a ball valve.
The intake holes are drilled 3 inches from the bottom.
The lid has 4 3/4 exhaust ports.
My charcoal basket is a Weber 18.5 charcoal grate as a base and 16 gauge expanded metal welded to it.
I added 4 inch tall legs to the bottom of the basket. I have attached a picture of both my barrel and charcoal basket.
I have tried methods such as lighting a few briquettes and adding to the top and letting them burn down.
Also today I light a whole chimney of coal and poured them on the bottom and add the unlit coals to these.
Both of the methods failed to get the temp up after waiting at least a half hour.
My best guess is to eliminate the legs on my basket? I'm baffled anything will help thanks.
Attachments
ebijack
Babbling Farker
This is from one of the many pages and posters, not my list as I built mine differently.
Parts:
both grates from a 22" weber, bailing wire,
8X48 piece of expanded metal
the handle from a 5 gal bucket
the magnets from the refrigerator door in your kitchen
3- 2" X 3/8" bolts with 6 nuts
3- 4" carriage bolts with 6 nuts & 6 flat washers
a thermometer
two universal metal handles
ebijack
Babbling Farker
R8ter87, I believe you need more exhaust ventilation. Also 30 mins might not really be enough time to let things get going. Like mentioned many times in this giant thread, it is all about controlling air flow. If you can not get enough air in or out you will have problems. Start with 1/2 chimney and let them ash over till you learn your smoker and adjust from there. Try setting you lid so you have an air gap at the edge and see what temps you get. Also the taller air inlets can be affected on windy days messin with the air flow so keep that in mind. I'm sure you'll get plenty of others posting in with help.
Last edited:
foam2
Full Fledged Farker
There are several things you can do to trouble shoot but it seems to me you would want to focus your attention to a few areas first.I am having a heck of a time getting my UDS up to temp.
I have 3 3/4 inch intakes, one is just a straight nipple with a cap and the other 2 have an elbow with a 2 foot pipe and a ball valve.
The intake holes are drilled 3 inches from the bottom.
The lid has 4 3/4 exhaust ports.
My charcoal basket is a Weber 18.5 charcoal grate as a base and 16 gauge expanded metal welded to it.
I added 4 inch tall legs to the bottom of the basket. I have attached a picture of both my barrel and charcoal basket.
I have tried methods such as lighting a few briquettes and adding to the top and letting them burn down.
Also today I light a whole chimney of coal and poured them on the bottom and add the unlit coals to these.
Both of the methods failed to get the temp up after waiting at least a half hour.
My best guess is to eliminate the legs on my basket? I'm baffled anything will help thanks.
To cook at 275-300, try lighting a full chimney of kingsford blue or competition briquettes, wait for 20 min or until they are completely lit and then pour on top of a loaded basket of charcoal. If that doesn't work, look at the air part of the equation.
The exhaust on the weber lid you are using is perfectly fine - I always cook with mine wide open and adjust temperatures with the bottom vents. I would take off both pipe extensions and elbows off of your inlets at the bottom of the UDS. The 90 degree bends and the 2' pipes add restriction and are not allowing enough air to enter. Try the same coal lighting exercise with the elbows removed. You should be able to maintain 250-300 with one 3/4" pipe nipple completely open and one of the 3/4" ball valves partially open.
If that doesn't work, look at lowering your charcoal basket to 2" and try it all again.
RT
Full Fledged Farker
I am having a heck of a time getting my UDS up to temp.
I have 3 3/4 inch intakes, one is just a straight nipple with a cap and the other 2 have an elbow with a 2 foot pipe and a ball valve.
The intake holes are drilled 3 inches from the bottom.
The lid has 4 3/4 exhaust ports.
My charcoal basket is a Weber 18.5 charcoal grate as a base and 16 gage expanded metal welded to it.
I added 4 inch tall legs to the bottom of the basket. I have attached a picture of both my barrel and charcoal basket.
I have tried methods such as lighting a few briquettes and adding to the top and letting them burn down.
Also today I light a whole chimney of coal and poured them on the bottom and add the unlit coals to these.
Both of the methods failed to get the temp up after waiting at least a half hour.
My best guess is to eliminate the legs on my basket? I'm baffled anything will help thanks.
Remove the riser pipes and give it a try. There may be too much restriction in the inlet air to get to temperature in 30 minutes.
I am assuming that you have checked your temperature gage.
SmokerKing
is One Chatty Farker
Remove risers and increase holes to 1" each
Basket looks a little tall
Use lump
Light with 3/4" chimney
Basket looks a little tall
Use lump
Light with 3/4" chimney
coachmccoy543
Knows what a fatty is.
R8ter87
Mine was originally setup just as yours, minus the 4" legs on the basket. I remeoved the risers like some have said and went with just 2 caps, 1 ball valve and have NO problem getting up to just about any temp I want.
I use a weed burner now to light my basket. I try to focus my flame on the center and when they turn white I add some more wood close the lid and i am usually up to temp in less than 30 mins. This Sunday I was cooking 20 mins after starting the basket. I just waited until all the white smoke burned off.
Hope this helps.
Mine was originally setup just as yours, minus the 4" legs on the basket. I remeoved the risers like some have said and went with just 2 caps, 1 ball valve and have NO problem getting up to just about any temp I want.
I use a weed burner now to light my basket. I try to focus my flame on the center and when they turn white I add some more wood close the lid and i am usually up to temp in less than 30 mins. This Sunday I was cooking 20 mins after starting the basket. I just waited until all the white smoke burned off.
Hope this helps.
bvbull200
Take a breath!
Shoot...now I'm nervous about mine. 3 3/4" intakes with caps and 1 3/4" intake on an 18" riser with a ball valve. I think I should be able to get plenty of air in, I just hope the ball-valve is effective at adjusting temps.
foam2
Full Fledged Farker
There's only one way to find out - fire that bad boy up and start cooking!!!
bvbull200
Take a breath!
I still have a little work to do in order to finish it. Building the firebasket this weekend, I suppose. Might look at painting it, too.
I guess I can always remove the riser. I just liked the idea of not having to bend down too far to make adjustments. I'm hoping the shorter riser is a nice balance between convenience and function.
I guess I can always remove the riser. I just liked the idea of not having to bend down too far to make adjustments. I'm hoping the shorter riser is a nice balance between convenience and function.
4
49erUDS72
Guest
I have 3 UDS barrels that I have set up differently. You can set them up for long cooks without access door, but can be tricky at times. I put 6 holes on bottom and 6 holes on top on 1 barrel, and I use ceramic magnets to cover holes for temp control. On one of my other barrels I did have a door put in, and I did that for smoking chips to add, as I can set up the charcoal for long cooks. I did it for convience, but there has been times where I added fuel, and Im glad I had the door.
4
49erUDS72
Guest
I agree...Lower you basket. your not getting air flow to the top. What you could also do if you wanted to spend the money is add a temp control fan.
4
49erUDS72
Guest
new uds barrel
This is my newest barrel with an access door, and a rotisserie
This is my newest barrel with an access door, and a rotisserie
peeps
somebody shut me the fark up.
Nice PDS, sir!
R
R8ter87
Guest
Thanks for the help!
I'll remove the risers and try it out again.
I'll remove the risers and try it out again.
T
tom9193
Guest
i am in the process of finishing up my u.d.s. and i realized i forgot to drill the riser u-bolt holes and the thermometers holes i drilled wasn't big enough and my drum is already painted , it just dawned on me will the bare metal exposed there rust? should i figure out a way to paint holes???
