AJP
Full Fledged Farker
So basically just beat the chit out of it.
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
So basically just beat the chit out of it.
BobBrisket
Moderator
AJP
Full Fledged Farker
It's a brand new lid, just not sure I want to do that just yet. Seems like a lot of work also.
BobBrisket
Moderator
The thing with the lids and the enamel is that even the smallest bend will crack the enamel. Another way is to use a cresent wrench, close it to the thickness of the lid and slowly expand the outter ring all the way around, not as bad, but will still chip the enamel. Depending on the lip of the drum you can also pound that one out so it will accept the lid a little better.
AJP
Full Fledged Farker
How much bigger do you think I can make it, I'm easily 2 inches short right now
BobBrisket
Moderator
Can you post a pic of the lid on the drum? 2" is quite a bit and you may not be able to make the fit even if you pounded it out. My lid would actually fit on the drum very tightly if I forced it on, but it would pop off because it was too tight. You may need to go with the Weber flange mod so the lid can rest on the lip of the Weber coal flange.
The thing with drums is there are lots of variables depending on the drum and what set up you go with in regards to the lid.
AJP
Full Fledged Farker
That is what I thought. I'll just return the lid and stick to the flat barrel lid.
Rodney
Full Fledged Farker
I'm planning my UDS right now, and this thread has been a great resource. So far, the plan is to get a used, lined, open-top drum from a friend for free and have it sandblasted inside and out. It'll then get a coat of black Rust-Oleum BBQ paint on the OUTSIDE ONLY. ;-)
For the charcoal basket, I was planning on making it 12" square x 6" tall, from flattened expanded sheet. Starting with a 24" square sheet of it from McMaster-Carr, I'd just cut 6" squares from each corner, forming a cross shape, fold the walls upward, and weld the junctions between the walls. Will this likely be big enough for about a 10 hour smoke? I'll probably use a 1" deep pizza pan for an ash pan. I'll then put a handle made from ~1/4" rod across the top of the basket (likely about 16" high) for easy removal of the basket/pan assembly.
As for the vents: I'm thinking I might give the magnet approach a shot on the intakes. I'll get a chunk of magnet stock from McMaster-Carr while I'm ordering my expanded sheet. If I don't like it, I can always cut the holes bigger and put pipe fittings in. ;-) Regarding the exhaust vent: It seems that everyone just runs it wide open. I read about 100 of the pages here, and I didn't find mention of there being any benefit to partially closing a ~2" opening, probably because I missed it... I only read that it should be closed in order to quickly shut down the coals. Also, many of the designs here are either always open or just open/shut. Any benefit to an adjustable exhaust? Also, what's the benefit to having a chimney on the exhaust vent?
To hold up the grate, I'm liking the idea of using U-bolts... it just looks so clean. I may weld something to the top surfaces of the u-bolts to "cage in" the grate so it doesn't float around.
Can't wait to get it going!
-Rodney
For the charcoal basket, I was planning on making it 12" square x 6" tall, from flattened expanded sheet. Starting with a 24" square sheet of it from McMaster-Carr, I'd just cut 6" squares from each corner, forming a cross shape, fold the walls upward, and weld the junctions between the walls. Will this likely be big enough for about a 10 hour smoke? I'll probably use a 1" deep pizza pan for an ash pan. I'll then put a handle made from ~1/4" rod across the top of the basket (likely about 16" high) for easy removal of the basket/pan assembly.
As for the vents: I'm thinking I might give the magnet approach a shot on the intakes. I'll get a chunk of magnet stock from McMaster-Carr while I'm ordering my expanded sheet. If I don't like it, I can always cut the holes bigger and put pipe fittings in. ;-) Regarding the exhaust vent: It seems that everyone just runs it wide open. I read about 100 of the pages here, and I didn't find mention of there being any benefit to partially closing a ~2" opening, probably because I missed it... I only read that it should be closed in order to quickly shut down the coals. Also, many of the designs here are either always open or just open/shut. Any benefit to an adjustable exhaust? Also, what's the benefit to having a chimney on the exhaust vent?
To hold up the grate, I'm liking the idea of using U-bolts... it just looks so clean. I may weld something to the top surfaces of the u-bolts to "cage in" the grate so it doesn't float around.
Can't wait to get it going!
-Rodney
BobBrisket
Moderator
Personally, if you are going to make the basket out of expando, make it just as high. I can't tell you if you will get 10+ burns out of a 6" high basket cause both of my baskets are at 10" high and as big all around. Might as well have the height there if you need it for longer cooks.
As for the exhaust, pretty much leave it open all the time. You want to have good exhaust and then use the intakes to control temp.
Your idea sounds great to me. Can't wait to see it.
CUTigerQ
is one Smokin' Farker
I don't find a lot but I do find some. I'm thinking I'm losing it too as it burns, it settles and dropping through. It's making me scratch my head for sure. Maybe there was too much ash in it already before the cook. I didn't empty it out but there didn't appear to be a Loy of ash but maybe I need to empty after every cook?
sdb25
is one Smokin' Farker
just line that milk crate with expando, or ditch it all together and make a new one.
AJP
Full Fledged Farker
I did 4 cooks using 20lbs of lump before I cleaned it the first time for me.
I'd say fix up your basket a bit and see what that does.
MushCreek
Full Fledged Farker
Rodney- You want your exhaust open while you are cooking- otherwise you can get creosote on your food- tastes as nasty as it sounds!
As for U-bolts- M. Carr has them in SS or black oxide steel. You don't want galvanized or zinc coated in the cooking area. I used acorn nuts on the outside of the drum for a dressed appearance. The grate can move around a little on the U-bolts, but it won't fall.
As for U-bolts- M. Carr has them in SS or black oxide steel. You don't want galvanized or zinc coated in the cooking area. I used acorn nuts on the outside of the drum for a dressed appearance. The grate can move around a little on the U-bolts, but it won't fall.
Rodney
Full Fledged Farker
Yeah, I know it should be open during cooking, just didn't know if throttling it served any purpose. So far I've deduced that it should be big enough to not act as much of a restriction to flow, but small enough that it ensures one-way flow, as opposed to (let's say) a 12" exhaust that would allow some air to swirl back into the drum and feed the fire. I guess a chimney would mainly just achieve this goal during very low temp smokes, and would also probably create a suction that would draw more air into the smoker (which you'd just throttle back anyway, so no benefit there, right?)
Good call on the acorn nuts... Yeah, I have a whole parts list put together for hardware and handles from McMaster, and it's getting pricey. ;-) Might downgrade to Home Depot hardware. As for the zinc plating, I would expect that it'd be fine everywhere but on the charcoal basket, as you're not going to get enough heat into the zinc to oxidize it anywhere on the drum... Right?
-Rodney
AJP
Full Fledged Farker
For peace of mind I'd pay a bit more for stainless steel for anything that is inside the smoker.
MushCreek
Full Fledged Farker
I added brackets to my firebasket that allow me to mount it on the lower set of U-bolts so I can use the UDS as a grill for steaks and burgers. It gets pretty hot- so no zinc for me. You could always burn it off with a torch, I guess. I spent quite a bit on all SS hardware to go with my SS drum. Now all that bling is black with smoke (on the inside) so I guess black oxide would work just as well.
Rodney
Full Fledged Farker
Yeah, I'll put together a parts list with as much black oxide stuff as I can. I do know that black oxide steel will rust if left outside, so I'll probably end up with a bunch of stainless too. ;-) Oh well... Do it right, do it once...
-r
brotherbd
Knows what a fatty is.
Got the urge for some stripping !
:shock:
Knew that would get your attention. :wink:
I'm talking about nekid nuts bolts and stuff, not people.
I want to strip the galvanizing plating off the bolts and stuff for a UDS build.
I think I remember somewhere Norco talking about using muratic acid to strip off the plating. Is that correct Norco or anybody else?
About how long does it take to strip? I know reactions depend on temp, acid % and stuff but I mean just in general with the stuff you can get at the pool supply or the plumbing dept. Am I looking at minutes or hours?
I worked in a few job shops a long time ago and I seem to recall doing something like this because we needed to do some welded bolts or nuts or something on a project and didn't want to give the welders a problem with toxic fumes.:eusa_clap
I'm building about 5 UDS's at once and I just can't see paying SS prices if I can get it done with galv. steel parts and some pool acid.
Thanks in advance for your kindly replies,
brotherbd
:shock:
Knew that would get your attention. :wink:
I'm talking about nekid nuts bolts and stuff, not people.
I want to strip the galvanizing plating off the bolts and stuff for a UDS build.
I think I remember somewhere Norco talking about using muratic acid to strip off the plating. Is that correct Norco or anybody else?
About how long does it take to strip? I know reactions depend on temp, acid % and stuff but I mean just in general with the stuff you can get at the pool supply or the plumbing dept. Am I looking at minutes or hours?
I worked in a few job shops a long time ago and I seem to recall doing something like this because we needed to do some welded bolts or nuts or something on a project and didn't want to give the welders a problem with toxic fumes.:eusa_clap
I'm building about 5 UDS's at once and I just can't see paying SS prices if I can get it done with galv. steel parts and some pool acid.
Thanks in advance for your kindly replies,
brotherbd
UVaJester
Knows what a fatty is.
What size U-bolts are the best to use..?? I'm collecting my parts right now... Already cut the lid out, have a cooking grate, and a dome lid for the top... Hopefully going to do the burn out this weekend.
Rodney
Full Fledged Farker
:shock:
Knew that would get your attention. :wink:
I'm talking about nekid nuts bolts and stuff, not people.
I want to strip the galvanizing plating off the bolts and stuff for a UDS build.
I think I remember somewhere Norco talking about using muratic acid to strip off the plating. Is that correct Norco or anybody else?
About how long does it take to strip? I know reactions depend on temp, acid % and stuff but I mean just in general with the stuff you can get at the pool supply or the plumbing dept. Am I looking at minutes or hours?
I worked in a few job shops a long time ago and I seem to recall doing something like this because we needed to do some welded bolts or nuts or something on a project and didn't want to give the welders a problem with toxic fumes.:eusa_clap
I'm building about 5 UDS's at once and I just can't see paying SS prices if I can get it done with galv. steel parts and some pool acid.
Thanks in advance for your kindly replies,
brotherbd
We used hydrochloric acid (a.k.a. muriatic acid) and zinc to make hydrogen in chem class in college, which we then ignited with a burner. ;-) They react very readily. Assuming the stuff you can get for a pool is sufficiently strong, it'll work.
Personally, since I'm only making one smoker, I'd rather just pay for the stainless than go and get chemicals to strip bolts. However, it might be a good thing to have around specifically for prepping zinc-plated hardware for welding...
