Ugly Drum Smoker

I used Rustoleum Engine Enamel (engine block spray paint) to paint this thing. It says to wait 7 days for it to fully cure. Is that really necessary? I want to cook this weekend!

Doc Robinson said:

I used Rustoleum Engine Enamel (engine block spray paint) to paint this thing. It says to wait 7 days for it to fully cure. Is that really necessary? I want to cook this weekend!

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Don't get your hopes up too high w/ the engine paint. I used it on mine let it cure for over a week and it still charred on my first cook, didn't even think it got that hot. Might have just been me but, I wouldn't do chicken on it for a bit. :becky:

Quick new guy question. Do I mount my thermometer 1" below or above the grill? I remember seeing it somewhere, but this is a huge thread.

Below.

Thanks!

Does it matter how big and how long my exhaust stack is?

doc I had 2300 degree engine paint on mine over Wally World 99 cent black and had an ABT grease fire. Burnt the 2300 stuff right off but didn't do anything to the black. Go figure.

UDS Pics

Finally getting around to posting pics of my UDS(if they work). I used a metal milk crate for the charcoal basket. 2 nipples and 1 ball valve.

I mounted adjustable shelf brackets inside the drum so that I can adjust the cooking grate(s) to any height or add more just by moving or adjusting the supports. You can even use it as a grill if you don't mind reaching down in the barrel to flip the food.

Hard to tell from the pics but I used a hammered finish paint that really looked good and covered any imperfections in the barrel. After seeing the green and white Philadelphia Eagles UDS I see an orange and blue paint job coming for mine in the near future.

Fun to build and even more fun to use.

I like the hook idea inside the lid. I'm going to do that.

Also...for exhaust stacks just in case you don't have a 2" bung already in the lid (I didn't) I found a great hole-saw / pipe combo.
I used 2 threaded pipe pieces (1.5" x 4") pipe nipples (like the bottom pipe nipples ones, but larger). I learned that a 1 7/8" hole saw will cut a PERFECT hole for these 1.5" pipes to thread into. I added a 90* elbow on top of each. Now I'll just have my friend add a tak-weld to ensure they don't wiggle loose.

Here's a pic:

Skidder said:

doc I had 2300 degree engine paint on mine over Wally World 99 cent black and had an ABT grease fire. Burnt the 2300 stuff right off but didn't do anything to the black. Go figure.

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Haha...well I guess I can always periodically apply fresh coats. Screw it...I'm cooking on this thing tomorrow!

Doc Robinson said:

Haha...well I guess I can always periodically apply fresh coats. Screw it...I'm cooking on this thing tomorrow!

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That's exactly what I decided to do! :laugh:

UDS Question

Question for the Brothers who are much smarter than me on the subject.

I have read the whole thing over the past months and I've seen posts where people are having problems controlling the temps. A common response or question to the question is how well does the top fit? Does it leak etc. Question is this, what difference (within reason) does it make if the top does not seal? Is that not just another exhaust port so to speak? Again within reason.

I'm asking because so far I have assembled everything needed for zero cost! Which was my goal and why it has taken so long. The donated drum was a refurb with the red liner. During the burn outs (and it was the mother of all burnouts) partially melted the damn thing. I was going to toss it and start over but I though what the hey. After a day of metal working have it in pretty good shape but I'm not sure about how the top fits. Was about to break down and have the interior sand blasted but am I wasting my $20 if it leaks a bit? No the top was not included in the MOB (mother of all burn outs), if I finish this drum I will include photos of the burn and subsequent barrell stretching actiivties.

My MUDS is going to that big smokehouse in the sky.

Dr_KY said:

My MUDS is going to that big smokehouse in the sky.

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We shall all morn for your loss. :sad:
When will services be held? :rip:

Questions about use of drums

Scored three drums for 40$, but uncertain if burning them out will make them safe? Two of the drums are the opened ended type that I intended to use for smokers. The third was a closed ended drum that I wanted to cut into approximately thirds, and use each end of it for lids for the two other drums.
The gentleman said that the two open ended drums contained acrylic that was encapsulated in jell-caps.....No liquid was in contact with the inside of the drum....Opened them up and they were relatively clean(bare meatal) with a little powder in the bottom. There is a definate odor. Was going to wash them out and see if the odor goes away and then burn them out. Is anyone at all fimiliar with such a content?...What do you think?

The other drum I'm definately a little more concearned with. It contained Isotropyl acetate, and the label says not to reuse container unless professionally cleaned....I bought a reconditioned drum some time ago and that was baked back to bare metal (which is what I would guess would be considered professionally cleaned). I was also told that it was a carbon based chemical, which I thought I heard could be successfully removed by burnig out the barrel. Again this drum would basically be used as the lids for the drums and not the entire vessel. This drum was missing the small cap out of the top and I smelled it and didn't really notice any strong odors, like it has been empty for some time?

Does anyone have any opinions or info concerning the contents of these drums, and burning them out.

Burn 'em and eat, or chit can 'em and be safe and alive and stuff?

Doc Robinson said:

I spent the evening building my UDS. This is what I did for the fire basket. I have no welding skills so I did what I could...any suggestions:

I used the charcoal pan and grate (15.5") from my ECBrinkmann for the ash pan and charcoal grate:

I used two 24" x 12" sheets of expanded steel from Lowes and used hex bolts and washers to secure them together. Then I used tin snips to cut and fold the bottom so I could secure the basket to the grate and pan with more bolts and washers.

Then I drilled 1/4" holes about every 3 inches around the ash pan for airflow to the bottom of the charcoal grate.

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That looks pretty familiar to me doc! :heh:

So, if I DON'T have an old BBQ for the ash tray, what else would do the trick?

BigButzBBQ said:

We shall all morn for your loss. :sad:
When will services be held? :rip:

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Could be as soon as next weekend I can't stand the thought of not having one more good burn. She's got a rust hole in the side that is not repairable so I'm thinking a high heat yardbird cook then striping her down so all ger goodness can be used in another MUDS. I won't reuse the thermo though as I intend to leave her with some dignity.

She did one hell of a good job for the MIL's 60th birthday the week before but it was all a bit much for the little drum that could.

My first cook on my UDS couldn't have been better. Brisket and Yukon Gold potatoes rubbed in warm bacon grease and rolled in equal parts salt, pepper, white sugar, paprika, garlic salt, sage, and parsley to coat really well.



I was shocked at how fast the UDS cooked this 5 lb. brisket flat...it was about 6.5 hours. The temperature was very easy to control as well. I think I started with about 10 lbs. of charcoal in the basket and still have about 7 lbs. left for the next cook.

Here's a UDS question to put out there.
When I cook on my UDS is it OK to use my top grill instead of the lower grill?
Am I not respecting the 24" rule?[ 24"minimum?]
Seems in a lot of the pron that you guys are going ahead on the top shelf.
I'm also thinking that a thermo on the lid would be a real asset.
Rockyathabaska

18"weber kettle
22.5"weber kettle
performer
UDS
weber gasser