MushCreek
Full Fledged Farker
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2009
- Location
- Seminole...
hath- great build! I saw it in your other thread. I'm thinking of something similar, but the drum won't be attached, so I can remove it for cleaning/service/whatever.
Mostly you need to be able to drill a number of holes of various sizes. There are small ones for the bolts or whatever that you're going to use to hold your grates in place, then there are larger ones for intake and exhaust. You can control the size of your intakes with magnets. I suppose if you were going to 'McGyver one, you could punch holes with the hammer and screwdriver, bringing 'ugly' to a whole new level!
If you can beg/borrow/buy a cheap drill motor, Harbor Freight sells step drills for like $14 on sale that will drill all of your various sized holes.
VERY nice setup, hath! I love the covered but extremely handy intake, as well as the huge side table. What is the counter top made from?
I've yet to build my UDS, so forgive the uninformed question... do you notice any problems arising from the intake air all rushing in from one side? Uneven burning? If it was burning unevenly, would you even be able to tell? I've been meaning to ask this question... ;-)
-Rodney
thank you sir... this is my second build and both have the intake set up this way. Ive nothing to compare against because this is how Ive always done it... but I have no problems with how it burns and Ive seen it done this way in other builds. The top is made out of MDF... I have a cover so im not too worried about it holding up too much.. and if it does fail Ill just replace it with something else.. maybe metal.
Right on. I just might do this instead of the simpler side table setup I was planning to do (exactly like your first build, actually). We'll see.
So, people say you can hit over 400 deg. F with three open 3/4" pipes at the bottom. Given that these pipes are .82" ID, three of them is equivalent to a single 1.42" opening, so 1.5" exhaust piping. Looks like you're running about 2", right? If so, your intake is about twice the size of three 3/4" pipes. Do you end up running the intake at about 1/4 open area to hit about 250?
I have 0 tools.....Well I only have screw drivers, hammers, and nails...maybe sand paper.
I have my eyes on a 55 gallon with a removable top, but havent pulled the trigger just yet. I'm calculating costs first.
What tools do I need to buy to build a super simple UDS?
If you are doing nipples for inlets you will need a 1" hole saw for metal.
Not sure if this has already been mentioned yet but thought I should share...
If anyone needs a lid for a closed top drum I saw these 22.5" cheapy grills for $29 at Big Lots this past weekend. They were boxed so I couldn't tell how thick they were.
http://www.biglots.com/Outdoorlife/item.aspx?cid=60&scid=217&iid=7351
Finished the post!! Started my build around page 200....did first cook around 280....
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=40923&id=1638801679
Great pics... Same donor grill I have. Did you have to do anything to the lid to get it to fit? Mine seems just a little tight. Wondering if you had the same issue. Thanks.
ok, extremely clueless question coming up. Does the kettle lid fit inside the barrel edge or is it manipulated to fit over the outside of the barrel edge?
ok, extremely clueless question coming up. Does the kettle lid fit inside the barrel edge or is it manipulated to fit over the outside of the barrel edge?
It goes on the outside of the rim. I used a grinder to trim the rim instead of pounding the lid to fit over the rim. Now if it would fit inside the rim that would work also, just leave a little lip on the inside of the drum for it to sit on.ok, extremely clueless question coming up. Does the kettle lid fit inside the barrel edge or is it manipulated to fit over the outside of the barrel edge?