If a Redneck wanted to build a UDS

Does the ash tray sit there with the charcoal basket on top or is it attached?

Is 1 3/4 inches enough clearance from the top to cook slabs of ribs, wings, etc?

BillywannaQ said:

Is 1 3/4 inches enough clearance from the top to cook slabs of ribs, wings, etc?

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I would say 95% of the time it is.Unless you have a really thick slab of ribs you will not have a problem.

I need some clarification please regarding the distance from the fire to the cooking grate. I understand that I need a distance of 24" from the fire to the cooking rack.

Assuming that........

1. The charcoal basket that I plan to make is 9" tall raised 3" off the floor of the drum = 12" in height from the bottom.

2. The average barrel is 33.5" tall

If we subtract the height of the barrel from the top of the charcoal 33.5" - 12" we only have 21.5" inches to work and that's to the top of the barrel, which leaves no room for the food and a flat lid.

I'm certain that I'm missing something here. Please clarify.

So you are using a 1/2" nipple to thread into the 3/4 inch hole. How long does the nipple need to be? Also what kind of hardware is to be used? Stainless steel? What about the nipples? Galvanized steel?

Williefb said:

I need some clarification please regarding the distance from the fire to the cooking grate. I understand that I need a distance of 24" from the fire to the cooking rack.

Assuming that........

1. The charcoal basket that I plan to make is 9" tall raised 3" off the floor of the drum = 12" in height from the bottom.

2. The average barrel is 33.5" tall

If we subtract the height of the barrel from the top of the charcoal 33.5" - 12" we only have 21.5" inches to work and that's to the top of the barrel, which leaves no room for the food and a flat lid.

I'm certain that I'm missing something here. Please clarify.

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24" from the BOTTOM of the fire basket.

CarlWayne said:

So you are using a 1/2" nipple to thread into the 3/4 inch hole. How long does the nipple need to be? Also what kind of hardware is to be used? Stainless steel? What about the nipples? Galvanized steel?

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http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k296/norcoredneck/IMG_3041-1.jpg

TurboDog said:

24" from the BOTTOM of the fire basket.

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Thank you sir. That's what I needed to hear.

If you're gonna use some sort of heat diffuser, you can play with that distance a little.

I think I might experiment with some sort of diffuser , maybe even just a disposable pan on the rack below the meat. I know part of the beauty of the UDS is supposed to be the drippings vaporizing and adding extra flavor to the meat, but every thing I cook turns out a little charred on the bottom , even at low temps. This wouldn't be a real big deal to me , but the wife won't even taste the food if it has a hint of black on it , dark brown , red , mahogany are all ok , but she sees black and assumes "I burnt the food".

divide circle into 3

I know its on BBQ Brethern and on the web, but I have spent 2 hours and could not find how to divide a circle into 3 section with just a square.

(I did it on my first drum!)

Maybe this can help.....

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1292345&postcount=6010

On the diagram the green half circles are 120* apart
360*/3=120*

Sammy_Shuford said:

divide circle into 3

I know its on BBQ Brethern and on the web, but I have spent 2 hours and could not find how to divide a circle into 3 section with just a square.

(I did it on my first drum!)

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I was too lazy to use formulas.
Just wrap a tape measure around the drum to take a circumference measurement and divide that number by 3.

Carbon said:

I was too lazy to use formulas.
Just wrap a tape measure around the drum to take a circumference measurement and divide that number by 3.

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This is what I did also!

bingo!

Just to update: There is a place online called Big Poppa Smokers that sells UDS parts if anyone is interested. You can get a kit with all parts, or buy them individually. Food for thought...!

Hey all. I have been lurking on these forums getting ready for my first UDS build and have already gathered a ton of useful information from this site, especially from this thread, so first-off thank you.

I want to make sure I am being safe and going about it the right way, so I have a few questions before I begin:

1) I am planning on cutting my airflow holes before the burn-in to increase the fire's efficiency, but I am following norcoredneck's plan, so the holes need to maintain the ability to be threaded by nipples. I am assuming this won't be an issue, but I just wanted someone to verify before I risk ruining a drum.

As for getting the fire going... just lots of hardwood? I saw HD has 5 lb bags of hickory and cherry wood for $7/bag... would a couple of these bags be enough wood, or should I just use scrap wood from somewhere if I can find it?

2) Is there anything I should/can do after the burn-in to increase the longevity of my drum's useful lifespan? Also, I have read about people painting their drums after the burn-in period. If I were to do this, is there a specific type of paint that should be used, or is painting a bad idea altogether?

3) What are people using for handles? I searched at HD and Lowes, but everything I could find lacked an insert to shield the heat. I have a couple of handles I pulled off the ECB this will be replacing, but they are pretty beat-up and I would just assume use new ones if I could find them.

4) Is there any argument for/against using a bung smokestack on the lid? I was thinking I would opt for the bung smokestack option all things equal. If I were to go this route, should I still add a few holes around the top of the lid, or would one to two smokestacks be sufficient?

5) Of the smoker thermometers I can get for > $20, is there any one recommended over the other, or is it basically apples to apples?

6) Are there places that might drill some of these holes for me? I have the basic drill bits to create holes for the bolts to hold the grates, but I had to pay close to $30 for the bits used to create the 3/4" and 1" diameter holes, and was hoping to not have to use them so I could return them.

7) What are the previously contained materials that are hazardous and will not be remedied by a burn-in that I should be weary of when purchasing my drum? For instance, I located a guy with drums locally for $15, but they had a concrete curing compound in them previously and I'm not sure if it would be safe to use.

Thanks!

jordan85 said:

1) I am planning on cutting my airflow holes before the burn-in to increase the fire's efficiency, but I am following norcoredneck's plan, so the holes need to maintain the ability to be threaded by nipples. I am assuming this won't be an issue, but I just wanted someone to verify before I risk ruining a drum. You'll be fine

1 bag of charcoal and lots of scraps... no pine...! or go to harbor freight and buy a propane weed burner, connect it to your gas grill tank!

2) Is there anything I should/can do after the burn-in to increase the longevity of my drum's useful lifespan? Also, I have read about people painting their drums after the burn-in period. If I were to do this, is there a specific type of paint that should be used, or is painting a bad idea altogether?

Yes! clean the outside of burnt paint residue, paint with high heat paint

3) What are people using for handles? I searched at HD and Lowes, but everything I could find lacked an insert to shield the heat. I have a couple of handles I pulled off the ECB this will be replacing, but they are pretty beat-up and I would just assume use new ones if I could find them.

Many differnt kinds

4) Is there any argument for/against using a bung smokestack on the lid? I was thinking I would opt for the bung smokestack option all things equal. If I were to go this route, should I still add a few holes around the top of the lid, or would one to two smokestacks be sufficient?

one stack is fine in the large bung about 4-6" long

5) Of the smoker thermometers I can get for > $20, is there any one recommended over the other, or is it basically apples to apples?

i would not reccommend any of the screw in's with a 5" or shorter probe i would instead reccomend a digital with probe leads and just lay it on or suspend it from your grill grate.

6) Are there places that might drill some of these holes for me? I have the basic drill bits to create holes for the bolts to hold the grates, but I had to pay close to $30 for the bits used to create the 3/4" and 1" diameter holes, and was hoping to not have to use them so I could return them.

Once again harbor freight buy a step drill set for about $14.00

7) What are the previously contained materials that are hazardous and will not be remedied by a burn-in that I should be weary of when purchasing my drum?

I would not worry about it unless it was like zylene or some weird pest killing chemical or there is a hazard marking on the drum. Most people would not even sell you a drum like that as they as considered hazardous waste...

Thanks!

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Good luck with your build!

my drum!

there's a butt & a Chub of bologna, my sons drum, and some ribs & my drum with the Auber hooked up to it mak'in sweet blue!......

Hey thanks for the reply!

For the burn-in, it's ok to just throw it in the bottom of the barrel isn't it?

I hear you on the temperature gauges. In fact, one of the reasons I wanted to do this build (among many others) was so that I could buy a Maverick ET732 w/ the money saved. With that setup, there's really no need for a gauge on the smoker, so maybe I will just skip adding a gauge altogether.

As for the HF drill bits... could somebody point me to the bits I could use? I am not a handy-man and I was just imitating the drill bits I saw in norco's tutorial, but I have no idea what they are called, or if there is a more cost-efficient option to make the holes.

And you wouldn't worry about the concrete curing compound? I already have all my hardware ready. I'd love to get started on my burn-in tonight so I could hopefully get one good cook on this before I have to leave town for a week...

jordan85 said:

Hey thanks for the reply!

For the burn-in, it's ok to just throw it in the bottom of the barrel isn't it?

Yep!

I hear you on the temperature gauges. In fact, one of the reasons I wanted to do this build (among many others) was so that I could buy a Maverick ET732 w/ the money saved. With that setup, there's really no need for a gauge on the smoker, so maybe I will just skip adding a gauge altogether.

I would

As for the HF drill bits... could somebody point me to the bits I could use? I am not a handy-man and I was just imitating the drill bits I saw in norco's tutorial, but I have no idea what they are called, or if there is a more cost-efficient option to make the holes.

See image make sure they will drill the right size you need... there are several different sets some go larger than others...

And you wouldn't worry about the concrete curing compound? I already have all my hardware ready. I'd love to get started on my burn-in tonight so I could hopefully get one good cook on this before I have to leave town for a week...

Unless you can see a hazard warning on it, I'd rinse, burn and use..

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Good luck!

I threw in a few more photo's in the last post to make your mouth water so you'll hurry up and get it done...!