stl-rich
is one Smokin' Farker
You can't get a 2" black iron nipple??
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
Gonesledn
Knows what a fatty is.
i use 2" black pipe, the kind used for gas lines. not too expensive. i have a 90 degree elbow on top a short 2" nipple to keep rain out. it also doubles as a hook for the lid.
they also make a 2" black plug, which i think is what you were looking for.
http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-331-black-iron-caps-and-plugs/black-plug-602937.aspx
lowes and depot carry these in stock as well.
Gonesledn
Knows what a fatty is.
IMO not the best way to go but I am sure someone will offer a different opinion. To each his own. I have a couple of friends who after seeing my build decided to build a UDS for themselves and went the way of the BGE sliding door and they sometimes have trouble on windy days. I would go with the threaded nip and ball valve but that's me.
jgh1204
Babbling Farker
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A weed burner is your friend. Burn the stuff out. If you pressure wash, just make sure it is good and dry when you are done.
h20loo
is one Smokin' Farker
I use selftaping screws and no need for sealant.
The last 11 drums I have built have the BGE style intakes. I even went back and modded some of my first drums with the sliding door. None of my drums or BGE are fixed in place so if wind on the intake, exhaust or me is a problem then I just rotate the drum or Egg. Mine really aren't directional. The reality is that you have the same amount of opening regardless of the way you regulate it so strong wind can be a problem for any intake. BGE are pretty successful and haven't resorted to plumbing taps.
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Learnin Querve
Full Fledged Farker
Hey Brewski,
Do you by chance work for a window manufacturer?
I used to sell sealants to window builders that came in straight sided drums...
Nice looking drum, BTW.
Chris
mike101prf
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Hello everyone, first time poster and I got hooked on the UDS thread and decided to build my own this weekend. This thread has to be the most helpful thing ive read to date on the building and different designs of the UDS. With that said here is my contribution to the UDS thread. Thanks to everyone for the posts
Attachments
mike101prf
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
brewski
Got Wood.
I do not. The business I am refering to is Adaseal which is near our town.
Thanks for the compliment.
Rodney
Full Fledged Farker
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Galvanized will work great if you're hesitant to use PVC. Your lid will have to get to 1600 degrees before the zinc will vaporize and become hazardous, and by that time your food will be ash and you won't want to eat it anyway. :thumb:
B
brunski
Guest
C
_Christopher_
Guest
On page 432 of this thread (post #6478) a tip was to use Easy-Off oven cleaner. I tried this on my lined barrel and it did not remove the liner. It did however completely remove the outer paint on the outside of the barrel cleanly and effortlessly. The barrel I purchased was made in 2010 for the Concord juice company and it shipped grapefruit juice. The liner is not red, but more like a very deep red wine color (near deep brown with hint of red) and feels more like a hard enamel than paint. I can scratch off the paint of my truck easier than the liner of this barrel. It's like it's between automotive paint and the truck bed liner paint.
I pre-sanded the area for testing with a few patches I took down to bare metal. Not even the thin areas around the bare metal edges were affected. I tried both the heat treatment and the cold over night method. None of the methods even came close to removing any of the liner or layers of the liner. But it did great removing the outside paint.
I purchased this when I thought all I had to do was burn it out. Now I know better. My goal now is to either find a bare metal barrel cheaper than $40 (and keep the one I has as a trash burn barrel), or pay the $40 for sand blasting it out. Which the economy can't be that bad. Out of 8 local slandblasters from the yellow pages, only two returned my phone call and I called them all at least three times each. And one of them said, it wasn't worth his time; politely though.
I pre-sanded the area for testing with a few patches I took down to bare metal. Not even the thin areas around the bare metal edges were affected. I tried both the heat treatment and the cold over night method. None of the methods even came close to removing any of the liner or layers of the liner. But it did great removing the outside paint.
I purchased this when I thought all I had to do was burn it out. Now I know better. My goal now is to either find a bare metal barrel cheaper than $40 (and keep the one I has as a trash burn barrel), or pay the $40 for sand blasting it out. Which the economy can't be that bad. Out of 8 local slandblasters from the yellow pages, only two returned my phone call and I called them all at least three times each. And one of them said, it wasn't worth his time; politely though.
1FUNVET
Babbling Farker
You might try burning it out again. Did you drill your inlet holes yet? Makes a lot of difference. Might get a weed burner from HF and get after it.
B
brunski
Guest
"vote for Pedro" lol
Not sure how old your daughter is (or her boyfriend or her boyfriend's dad...) but the movie "Napolean Dynamite" is a cult classic for us late 30 - early 40 sometings:
Any time I see a "Pedro" reference, that's where I go.
jcinadr
Knows what a fatty is.
I just used a short 2" pipe nipple for my smoke stack. A empty corn can (right size) will keep any rain out. That said, I have a 2 1/4 tractor muffler cover on mine. A small magnet below the hinge will get it to lock open when you are cooking.
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Fire needs O2. One person hooked up a shop vac to his nipple as a blower :thumb:- impressive resulting burnout. That said, if you do that to a lid, I highly suspect it will warp.
(fire plus injected air = blast furnace)
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Fire needs O2. One person hooked up a shop vac to his nipple as a blower :thumb:- impressive resulting burnout. That said, if you do that to a lid, I highly suspect it will warp.
(fire plus injected air = blast furnace)
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1FUNVET
Babbling Farker
Top from a can of spray paint is what i use on 2" PVC stack even tho my drum is under my carport off my shop. Saw a wasp snooping around one day and decided i better cover the stack.
G
gjdad
Guest
Hi all. I have read some to this thread over the last week. My question is about a design for stacking one drum vertically on top of another. The lower drum has the normal UDS setup, the top drum has a long door to access slide out shelves. Can somebody direct me to the part of the thread that discusses this type of design.
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
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colonel00
Quintessential Chatty Farker
Can't say that I have seen that before but I could have missed it. There are plenty of people that do stack drums though. Basically you want to cut the drum around the rib where the drum flares out. Then it will sit on the lip of your normal UDS and provide a decent seal. As far as the door, I like the idea but I fear you might have some serious air leaks. Especially if you want the door big enough to access large racks. Perhaps check and see how some people have made theirs stackable with different sections. This would essentially allow you to have 2-3 racks per section in the standard lift-out configuration.
G
gjdad
Guest
Thanks, I was thinking I could use 16 gauge strips attached inside the opening with high temp calk in the ribs and weather stripping the entire opening to seal the door. I dont have any idea about latches yet. I will have a door at bottom to slide the fire basket in and out. A third door in the bottom drum to access the waterpan/drippan.
