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Real easy to adjust the ball valve with your foot. I don't think i could fine tune the magnets as easy.:thumb:
Or bring your pipe up the side of the drum and use your hand! :thumb:

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I went with a ball valve so I didn't have to bend over all the time to adjust the intake. What can I say? I'm lazy like that! :laugh:

I WANTED the magnets but couldn't find any so I went with the valve. After the fact I am glad I went with the valve because it is VERY easy to bump it with my foot to adjust :thumb:
 
Do these sound safe to use after a burn out?

I found him on CL.

I am selling empty 55 gallon metal barrels. I had water based waterproofing membrane in them before. The product was non-toxic and environmentally friendly.
Barrels have the standard 2" and 3/4 threaded holes and they are the SEALED LID type.
Barrels could be used as floats for docks, water storage, garbage cans, or as other chemical storage tanks, or ext.
 
As long as there is no scaling rust inside, burn them out and they are good to go.

Sealing lid is a big plus.

Get a couple.
 
After going through maybe a hundred or so pages of this thread I wonder if the ball valve is really necessary?

I owned several WSMs and they didn't have those.

Why not have 4 to six vent holes and just use cork as plugs?

Is the ball valve really a big asset to this design?

I bought Amazon.com: Magcraft NSN0749 1-Inch by 1/16-Inch Rare Earth Disc Magnets, 6-Count: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ImDSgH8lL.@@AMEPARAM@@41ImDSgH8lL that allow you to adjust air flow. They work great with 3/4" holes.
 
Got my first smoke out of the way.

Started yesterday at about 2:25 pm.

Just did a seasoning smoke and tossed a fatty on....I think I did it wrong because it tasted like an ash tray.

I had a ton of white cloudy smoke for a long time. I did about 10 lbs of lump charcoal and 6 chunks of hickory.

I think my problem with the white smoke was when I kept taking the lid off to check to see if my grate thermo and my turkey thermo were accurate. When I finally got to blue smoke (around 4:00), I opened it up and put in the fatty. It took a minute while I fumbled with getting the probe thermo in through its hole and when I finally put the lid back on, I had lots of white smoke for a long time. After I took off the fatty at about 6, I opened the pipes to get it hotter. It ran at about 400-450 for a few hours, but there was cloudy white smoke for a long time. Did I just change the temp too fast? Do you really need to up the heat slowly on these?

When I came inside around 8:30, I went back to one intake hole being open, and it dialed down to 220. When I came back out at 11, it was down just under 200. I opened the valve all the way and uncapped another pipe and when I checked at midnight it was at 250. I pulled all the pipes out and had three open 1-inch holes at midnight, and when I checked it this morning at 8 it was at 220.

One thing, after I turned the heat down from 450 to 220, there was no more visible smoke. Even when I went back up from 220 to 250, I couldn't see any smoke at all. Would food still get "smoked" on that?

Probably a stupid question, but I really have no clue what I'm doing save for the information in this thread. This was the first time I've ever smoked anything.

One more question...because the drum is round, it seems like hard metal disc magnets wouldn't really give a good seal when trying to plug up a hole. Would Amazon.com: TEXAS TECH RED RAIDERS OFFICIAL LOGO CAR FRIDGE MAGNET SET (3): Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51cCgbvm7dL.@@AMEPARAM@@51cCgbvm7dL work?
 
Got my first smoke out of the way.

Started yesterday at about 2:25 pm.

Just did a seasoning smoke and tossed a fatty on....I think I did it wrong because it tasted like an ash tray.

I had a ton of white cloudy smoke for a long time. I did about 10 lbs of lump charcoal and 6 chunks of hickory.

I think my problem with the white smoke was when I kept taking the lid off to check to see if my grate thermo and my turkey thermo were accurate. When I finally got to blue smoke (around 4:00), I opened it up and put in the fatty. It took a minute while I fumbled with getting the probe thermo in through its hole and when I finally put the lid back on, I had lots of white smoke for a long time. After I took off the fatty at about 6, I opened the pipes to get it hotter. It ran at about 400-450 for a few hours, but there was cloudy white smoke for a long time. Did I just change the temp too fast? Do you really need to up the heat slowly on these?

When I came inside around 8:30, I went back to one intake hole being open, and it dialed down to 220. When I came back out at 11, it was down just under 200. I opened the valve all the way and uncapped another pipe and when I checked at midnight it was at 250. I pulled all the pipes out and had three open 1-inch holes at midnight, and when I checked it this morning at 8 it was at 220.

One thing, after I turned the heat down from 450 to 220, there was no more visible smoke. Even when I went back up from 220 to 250, I couldn't see any smoke at all. Would food still get "smoked" on that?

Probably a stupid question, but I really have no clue what I'm doing save for the information in this thread. This was the first time I've ever smoked anything.

One more question...because the drum is round, it seems like hard metal disc magnets wouldn't really give a good seal when trying to plug up a hole. Would Amazon.com: TEXAS TECH RED RAIDERS OFFICIAL LOGO CAR FRIDGE MAGNET SET (3): Sports & Outdoors work?


I use 1 3/4 ball valve with the other 3 3/4 nipples all open on the bottom, bring it up to about 225 and cap off the nipples and leave the valve open, purrs at 245 for about 10 hours on on load of kingsford and about 8 chunks of pecan wood. I never tried using magnets just didnt think i could have the control......... maybe I'm a control freak. Give it another go with some chicken thigh's, They are cheap and only takes a couple of hours.
 
That would probably be a good idea. ......But I've got the chimney starter going right now and I'm going to try my hand at a brisket today. I may be :crazy:
 
Adding a Weber lid to my drum to allow for more headroom - I really like doing beer can chicken, and I just don't have the room in my drum right now.

But my drum may be slightly larger than most - the Weber kettle lids are about 1/2" too small in diameter and won't fit over my drum. :mad:

I know there are ways to mod the top of the drum to make it smaller in situations like this. Help?

(I admit that I haven't searched this thread for input . . . the last time I read through this entire thread it was a LOT shorter and I don't have the time or the patience to do it again this weekend - thanks for any tips! :thumb:)
 
Well boo. Got to where I had no visible smoke for 20 minutes and had the temp to 250. Opened the lid, put the brisket on, and closed the lid (off for maybe 6 seconds). Watched for a minute, no visible smoke, temp at 250. Came up, took a shower and started reading. Just went out to check it again after an hour on the smoker and there's white smoke and the temp was up to about 300. Not billowing or anything, but it's visible. I really don't understand why. Using lump charcoal and a few chunks of hickory. Thing's been burning in he drum since I added a 3/4 full chimney at roughly 6 o'clock. 2 1/2 hours ago. Only time I opened the lid was to put the brisket on.
 
The problem with the cheap magnets is they degrade from heat over time. I have only done a few cooks with my new magnets but they may degrade as well.

Which magnets are higher quality to buy?

Going really cheap would be to use aluminum foil!

No need to get fancy if you don't want to.
 
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