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New Comp Trailer Advice Needed

Sticks-n-chicks

Sticks-n-chicks

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We are picking up our new (to us) comp trailer on Friday and would like to hear advice from the Brethren about things you've seen or done to a trailer to make it work best at comps. Its a Wells Cargo 7x16 dual axle.
 
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The first thing I'd do, is go Shiggin' other teams trailers - get ideas and find out what they like and they would have done differently and why. Since you're in the KC area, you can do this nearly any day of the week. Take special notes of trailers similar size to get the best use of space for your needs. (I think we all enjoy showing our toys)

Then draw up some floor plans and try to keep the heavy fixed items over the axles.

One thing I'd change in our trailer is the walls. We put up FRP, but since I've seen the white aluminum sheets and they look slick - and they are lighter. I figure the FRP alone weighs over 350 lbs in our trailer.
 
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Are you planning on working in the trailer, sleeping in the trailer, or just carrying your stuff? If you are just carrying stuff then KC Bobby has a good suggestion. Look at your load and figure out where you need tie down, e-track, etc. to keep the heavy stuff over the axles and then add shelves, etc. to hold the smaller stuff as you go down the road.

If you are going to work and/or sleep in there then you need to figure out a layout that works for you for prep, turn ins, etc. but also allows easy conversion to your bedroom. Fold down beds are nice and you may be able to put fold up work surfaces right above the beds. that way you can fold down the work surface for prep and then fold i back up and fold down the bed at night.
 
The Plan

The plan is to make the front the food / prep area and the back have fold down bed and storage. I know we want to mount an A/C in the back just haven't decided how just yet.
 
I can't tell from your pics, but we installed a weight distribution hitch and sway bars on our trailer (8.5' X 18'). The wind really pushes these things around sometimes. Money well spent.

Row of base cabinets in front with sink and water heater. Custom water tank between frame rails in front. Wall cabinets on one side, the smokers are stored on the other.

We (all 4 of us) can sleep on the floor if it gets nasty out. We don't have a refrigerator, just 4 coolers. These stay outside at comps under the EZ-UP.

I need to get OV1 to post some pics. Still dreaming about a toy hauler, but our trailer really works for us.
 
Smokin Mike said:
Nate, does your FEC fit in there o.k?
Click to expand...

I don't have the black Traeger anymore. And I don't have a picture of it, but I am able to lay the FEC on its back in the same place as the black Traeger. There is plenty of room.

Nate
 
I think it would be nice to have running water around your kitchen/prep area. I wouldn't think it would be all too difficult to figure that out.

Regarding the A/C. You can get the permanent roof mounted type at RV stores. A less expensive method is to use a simple window unit and cut a hole to mount the thing (remove while traveling).
 
TN_BBQ said:
I think it would be nice to have running water around your kitchen/prep area. I wouldn't think it would be all too difficult to figure that out.

Regarding the A/C. You can get the permanent roof mounted type at RV stores. A less expensive method is to use a simple window unit and cut a hole to mount the thing (remove while traveling).
Click to expand...

Sam's Club has floor AC units for about $450. Seems perfect for a small area like a trailer.

Get something to cover your rear entry when the door is open so the bugs and outside temperature don't come in when the door is down.
 
For flooring, look at the black VCT tiles squares at Home Depot. They are durable and don't show the dirt, grease as bad.
 
Thanks guys keep the advice rolling

Keep it coming. I am planning on going to pick it up on Friday after work...the neighbors will just love it...I think they all think we are burning a lot of trash when I cook on the cans in the drive way.
 
I'm about to paint the floor of my trailer and add sand too it for some traction. i put a roof mout a/c on mine. Picked it up from a repair guy on CL. Was able to test it. The portable a/c units need an exhaust port, so you'll need a hole somewhere. i was going to go that route, but wanted one less thing to move around. I wired my trailer myself and it seemed to go smoothly. I insulated the roof, but not the walls. Mine is alot smaller and I keep finding more things to leave at home. Lighten the weight and less to load/unload.
 
thillin said:
I'm about to paint the floor of my trailer and add sand too it for some traction. i put a roof mout a/c on mine. Picked it up from a repair guy on CL. Was able to test it. The portable a/c units need an exhaust port, so you'll need a hole somewhere. i was going to go that route, but wanted one less thing to move around. I wired my trailer myself and it seemed to go smoothly. I insulated the roof, but not the walls. Mine is alot smaller and I keep finding more things to leave at home. Lighten the weight and less to load/unload.
Click to expand...

What did you use to insulate it?
 
I saw some gently used roof a/c units at olathe ford rv when I got to drop off my rv, I'll call Joe and ask about them.
 
We got a portable A/C unit for our bedroom since it isn't hot up here that many days a year. They work but not nearly as well as a mounted unit. If Cowgirl can put a window A/C in a camping tent then...........
 
Originally Posted by Sticks-n-chicks
What did you use to insulate it?
Click to expand...
The question wasn't to me, but...For my new one I'm working on now I used 3/4" rigid insulation in the walls, and 3" fiberglass bats in the ceiling. Instead of the FRP or whatever that stuff is called that costs $30+ per sheet I used an insulated sheathing board that was $10 per and added another 1 or 2 R-factor.
 
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