Ugly Drum Smoker

Question for the UDS Brethren using a diffuser, what kind of temperature variance are you seeing from center grate to side grate using the diffuser.

I have tried a 6 and 9" dia. 18 gage steel. with both size plates there is a 20 deg. difference in the temperature from the center to the side. No diffuser is 50-60 deg.

uds question

So i am starting my first UDS. I have a couple questions.
1. has anyone tried using an old disc blade for an ash tray?

I use electronic temp gauges with wired probes. I was thinking of drilling a 3/4" hole in the side just above the grate level. Then cutting a silicone hot pad to make an accessible/sealed hole. thinking of placing one approx half way over drilled hole and second layer cover the hole completely then i could push probe between the layers into the uds. Do you think it would work?

rt said:

question for the uds brethren using a diffuser, what kind of temperature variance are you seeing from center grate to side grate using the diffuser.

I have tried a 6 and 9" dia. 18 gage steel. With both size plates there is a 20 deg. Difference in the temperature from the center to the side. No diffuser is 50-60 deg.

Click to expand...

20-25*

I found a company nearby that sells reconditioned drums. I sent this company an email and asked what their thoughts were on using these drums for smoking food. This was the reply I got from the president of the company:


"A reconditioned steel drum has been cleaned using one of two processes. Tight Head steel drums are washed inside and out in a chemical bath and then rinsed with fresh water. Open Head (removable top) drums are sent through a furnace and any prior materials are burned out. Both processes clean out most, if not all, of the prior ladings. However, they do not make the drum food grade.

The degree of cleaning is such that reconditioned drums are often used to make grills and smokers. However, I do not recommend them for food storage. For food storage I recommend a new drum."





I'd like to hear from others who are knowledgeable about using reconditioned drums and, assuming the drums don't have a rust inhibitor lining, would you guys still burn it out any way?

I'm trying to find a drum that I wont have to burn out but I don't want me and my family getting sick either. My biggest problem right now in building a UDS is finding a place around here to do the burn out.

Any good info will be appreciated, Steve

Finally finished up my drum and got to fire up my first UDS today. Lump hit the basket at 7 AM, took the temp up to 230 and it stayed there all day! I checked it every hour and it just didn't move. After 5 hours I was beginning to think the thermometer was stuck so I opened up the valve a little just to check it and the temp wiggled up to 235. Good gravy these things hold temps well! Smoked 3 dry rubbed, medium sized butts and they all turned out AWESOME!!!!!! For my first cook, I couldn't be more pleased. Maybe ribs and chicken next weekend, thinking brisket soon also. There is one negative though, I couldn't stop eating it and butt #1 is completely gone, nothing but a little fat left over that the cat was highly excited about. This UDS will be detrimental to my health. If I don't increase my cardio I'll go from 295 lbs to 330 before Christmas. Q on brethren, Q on...

Built my first one well over a year ago with no welder or cutting torch so it can be done. Love the drum and have added to it as I got a welder and such.
There's another drum that's been just sitting here and waiting on me for a good while and I'm about to start on it.
Thanks to all who have posted in this very long thread and shared knowledge. My next drum will be even better than the first.

BearDownBBQ:

Here's what I use for a 16 gallon mini UDS build:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-Water-tight-Conduit-Connector-90661/100170032#.UhF88NK1ErU

I also use the 3/4" model for 55 gal UDS builds.

Just a thought but wouldn't a plow disc be too heavy to wrangle into the drum when the coals are hot and smoking and you're trying to get the bin into the barrel using a hook?

You can use a pizza pan or you can buy a cheap table top grill and use the grill grate as the bottom to your expanded metal sides and the bottom pan the same way that the manufacturer intended it to be used.

Well, I smoked 6 baby back racks and a tri-tip yesterday. I did the tri-tip for 3 hours and it was perfect. The ribs went for 3hrs then I sauced/wrapped them. They weren't the best I'd ever done, but the were by far the easiest I've ever cooked. I'm looking forward to a lot more cooks on this thing.

Here's mine....10 lb brisket was it's maiden voyage yesterday....turned out awesome.....

Great job on your UDS........

Hello, I am new to the group. I have been using my prototype uds for 2 or 3 years, I built it to see if there was anything I wanted to do different before I build the stainless one that I bought the barrel for. My question is, I bought a big stainless mixing bowl that overlaps the top rim of the barrel a little and i want to hammer form it down over the top edge of the drums rolled lip. Has anyone here ever tried doing this?
Tom

Afternoon

Think I have sourced almost all of the equipment for UDS (drum and charcoal basket), but I'm struggling with the intake side of things.

The nipples, what material should they be made from? Brass? SSteel?

Should I try for 3 ball valves or will 2 x cap + 1 ball valve be enough?

If I want to raise the ball valve, what's the best way to do it?

or should I forget it all and use a sliding vent type?

HELP! Please

I always use steel close nipples for my builds. I recommend 2 ball valves and 1 cap. With the cost of ball valves starting to climb again I can't see the value that a 3rd would add. Measure from the top of the elbow to whatever height is good for you and buy the appropriate black pipe nipple. Don't forget that the ball valve will add about 3-4 inches to your height when added to the pipe. The cost of building the intake system with ball valves, risers,nipples and hardware at my Home Depot here in Northern Ohio is $42.00 give or take a couple bucks. The cost of 2 vent kits from Big Poppa Smokers is $53.90. I don't know if there is anywhere else to buy vents for the UDS that would work as well as the ball valve build or BPS kit and I've looked all over for something more cost effective. You can always use the kitchen magnet type vents, but I can't as I make them to order and they're ordered from pictures. I just received the BPS kit I ordered last week so I'll have a better idea about their vents later.
Hope this helps you and good luck on your build.

teeb57 said:

I found a company nearby that sells reconditioned drums. I sent this company an email and asked what their thoughts were on using these drums for smoking food. This was the reply I got from the president of the company:


"A reconditioned steel drum has been cleaned using one of two processes. Tight Head steel drums are washed inside and out in a chemical bath and then rinsed with fresh water. Open Head (removable top) drums are sent through a furnace and any prior materials are burned out. Both processes clean out most, if not all, of the prior ladings. However, they do not make the drum food grade.

The degree of cleaning is such that reconditioned drums are often used to make grills and smokers. However, I do not recommend them for food storage. For food storage I recommend a new drum."





I'd like to hear from others who are knowledgeable about using reconditioned drums and, assuming the drums don't have a rust inhibitor lining, would you guys still burn it out any way?

I'm trying to find a drum that I wont have to burn out but I don't want me and my family getting sick either. My biggest problem right now in building a UDS is finding a place around here to do the burn out.

Any good info will be appreciated, Steve

Click to expand...

At *minimum*, I would do a washing with an engine degreaser, soap and water at my local drive in car wash (the quarter sucking type).

I have done burnouts in my driveway (with my neighbor standing by with a hose and a cell phone) and in my side yard (for which Mrs SJ threw me in the the dog house). Where do you live that you can run the UDS, but not burn it out?

Lesson's or things I have learned about UDS's (personal opinions) in the last couple years:

1. Buying a clean new drum is worth it (unless you get lucky enough to get a cheap/free unlined drum w/ food safe oil in it). Also, if you can find someone to sandblast it inside out your avoid having to burn it out (some people will argue with I'm sure...). I spent $60 for a new drum and $20 to get it blasted. $80 is well worth avoiding hours of burning and sanding in my opinion...
2. Rustoleum flat black paint is your friend. Only paint the outside of your drum, the inside get "seasoned". Flat black is easy to touch up and actually blends in with itself. Yearly cleanup only take 5-10 minutes if you have a drill with a wire wheel and a can of this paint. I've just found w/ fun paint or patterns they end up looking like crap after a year or two and I'd rather spend my time cooking vs. stripping and repainting my entire drum.
3. Electronic controllers are wonderful. For day cooks I can get away w/ out them but for night cooks I'd rather sleep knowing everything will be ok. For example last week the temp outside dropped 30 degreees at night (wasn't aware it was supposed to) so I woke up to a brisket cooking about 20-30 degrees low....). I've had Wifi, digital display, and non digital display. They are all great but I've come to the conclusion a ique 110 and a wireless meat/pit thermometer do just fine. I'd rather spend less $ and keep it simple.
4. Season your drums inside properly and a rusty interior is only in your imagination. I buy 2-3 cans of canola oil from walmart and spray the entire inside. Light up some coals and let it burn at around 300 for a few hours and your done. Each cook if you notice bare metal spots spray a little oil before/during your cook and your good to go.
5. Weed burners are your friend. Lighting a drum becomes a 2-3 minute task. And until you learn to properly use it your neighbors might think jets are flying over head.
6. Read everything you can online and "borrow" ideas from everywhere and everyone so you end up creating your perfect drum. It will take building (or rebuilding) maybe 2-5 drums before you find what really works for you unless your lucky.

ok so im only up to page 200 something on here im about to start building my u.d.s. but i need to know i want the weber grill cover but i also want the ability to use a weber rotisserie..so am i supposed to cut the lip to the drum or cut the top 2 inches of a old weber kettle and mod that it in

tom9193 said:

ok so im only up to page 200 something on here im about to start building my u.d.s. but i need to know i want the weber grill cover but i also want the ability to use a weber rotisserie..so am i supposed to cut the lip to the drum or cut the top 2 inches of a old weber kettle and mod that it in

Click to expand...

Tom I thought the rotisserie kit would fit right in the drum with no mods but I could be wrong... I know the ribolator fits. I was going to do one a while back but found spatchcocking birds there is no need to rotisserie in the UDS.

Fwismoker said:

Tom I thought the rotisserie kit would fit right in the drum with no mods but I could be wrong... I know the ribolator fits. I was going to do one a while back but found spatchcocking birds there is no need to rotisserie in the UDS.

Click to expand...

It is my understanding that the WEBER rotisserie ring does not fit in the UDS. However, the Cajun Bandit and/or Ribolator stainless rings fit in the UDS upside down with no mod. I'm not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.

Guess I had to add to this thread. It's helped me a ton. Check out my build. Link to the thread below.

http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169137