Low temperatures in new UDS build

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sunkai

Guest
Hi all,

I've just finished my first UDS build, and fired it up after a seasoning burn. I found that the temperatures achieved were well below what I was expecting.

To get to a 350f grill temperature, I had to have all 4 of my 3/4" nipples wide open.

The lid is the standard one from a Weber kettle, with the vents wide open. The ambient temperature was 30f, and the whole charcoal bed was alight.

Adding a heat-deflecting plate a couple of inches above the brazier dropped the grill temperature by 120f.

The only things that I can think of that could restrict the temperature are: the ash pan sides obstruct the direct path between nipple and brazier; and the brazier sides are perforated metal, not expanded metal.

Any advice much appreciated.
 
Start with a bigger fire and loose that damn deflector it aint needed the UDS is a direct heat pit.
 
Also, remember that the four 3/4" nipple design was developed before everyone started smoking in the hot and fast temperature range and, as Bludawg says, without a deflector.
 
replace the 3/4" nipple with 1" nipple and get more air intake
 
Thanks for the tips.

I'll try a larger fire first, and can add more ventilation if required. All of the build guides I referenced advocated either a 4 x 3/4" or 3 x 1" configuration.

I lifted the deflector out initially when it seemed that it might be stifling the fire. Using one seems to be a bit of a religious argument, depending on whether you like meat juices in the coals or not.

The ventilation in the lid wouldn't be to little or too great would it?
 
Try using a good quality lump charcoal, it burns much hotter than briqs.

If you are using briqs, it's possible they are damp.
 
Vent in lid should always be full open. period. The design of a UDS is to go low. i cruise at 250-275. I can get it up to 350, and i do frequently to get a nice glaze on things, but it takes some time.

How big is your fire basket? How many briq's or lump you start in the chimney also influences how hot it will get and how fast, I.E. the more lit the faster it gets to temp.

Also make sure your fire basket is off of the bottom of the barrel, if it isnt. Need about 2 inches.
 
I have the same problem. Pretty much same setup but I use the ique, so I'm pretty sure I get enough air in. My uds loves 250*. I can get it to hold 325* but it takes a while to get there. The fastest way is to remove the lid and let the fire build for a while, and I use a cheap pizza pan diffuser.

I have just accepted the fact that the majority of my cooking will be 250*-275*. I use my kettle for anything hotter.
 
I run mine at 300-325 all the time I have 3 3/4 intakes two nipples an a ball valve, I use lump in the basket wood buried in the lump, I use a 1/2 chimney of hot briquettes to fire it. Once I dump the briquettes on the lump I give it 10 min before loading it into the drum. Stat with all intakes open I close 1 at 250 at 275 i close the ball valve 1//2 way it settles in at 300 in 15 min
 
If you want to be able to raise temps on a dime add a second exhaust vent.
 
Bludawg said:
Start with a bigger fire and loose that damn deflector it aint needed the UDS is a direct heat pit.
Click to expand...

peaspurple said:
A-man, brother!!
Click to expand...

+1 or
Close 3 vents, add a BBQ guru digiQ cook at whatever temp you want to and never ever worry about it again.
My first perfect designed flat lid UDS would run 350 all day and never miss a lick, with 2 16 lb brisket in it. It only had a 3/4" exhaust
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I'm a big believer in the BBQ gurus. I will never not use one for my cooks
 
sunkai said:
...The only things that I can think of that could restrict the temperature are: the ash pan sides obstruct the direct path between nipple and brazier; and the brazier sides are perforated metal, not expanded metal.....
Click to expand...

Can you share a pic of your basket? If the experts here can see what you've got, I'm sure some good recommendations could be provided.
 
Do you have your intakes raised i.e. with vertical pipe risers, or are they just nipples at the bottom of the drum? do you have pipe valves on all the intakes or just 1?

I added vertical pipes to the intakes on my drums because I thought it would save me the trouble of having to bend down to cap or uncap the nipples. Proved to be a not so great idea - struggled to get temps above 260 in the midi UDS and above 220 in the UDS. Also what is your deflector made of? if using a clay saucer the temps will drop alot right when you put in because the clay plate is cold.

I solved my problem by adding a 1 1/4" intake to both drums. When i want to go hot n fast I open the big intake as well as the others.
 
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