I also had a basket made and I think the guy welding was really getting into it - he built it like a tank! 16" dia 6" tall

I wanted to see how a full basket (to the top rim but not any higher)would burn and cooked for 12 hours and burned little over 1/3 of the coals. It will definately cook for as long as I need it to.



Daayyyuuuumm!!!
That's efficient!
Sweet looking basket btw.
 
Man, what a great idea that cork thing is!!! Glad you didn't kiss. I once knew a guy who insisted that if things weren't done his way they couldn't be right. There's more than one way to skin a cat... and bbq him too! lmao
 
Biggs, how big a fire did you build? You have to put a lot of wood in the barrel to get that liner off. It is tough stuff. Flames should be shooting out about 3 feet above the barrel.

Oh Flames were high and hot.....Going to give it another burn then some elbow grease.
 
Reconditioning process

Ok first of all this thread is the holy grail of information. And thanks to everyone (although I'm on page 149 of the read) for helping me get my first UDS built. I found a reconditioned drum from a company and brought it home and did three burnouts on it. Sanded down the inside (although there wasn't much left in there anyway) and built a very simple UDS.

It has a 7" deep grill flat top using just the 2" bung for exhaust. I drilled three 1" holes but have found I barely need to open 1 of them more than a quarter (I use magnets - simple) of the way.

So I was fairly certain that my drum was clean but I started getting paranoid so I called the company and described the barrel and asked if it had been used to carry anything toxic or hazordous. He told me that in their reconditioning process that they burn the barrels at 1800* bearing blast them, then heat them up again are washed with a detergent and some other steps.

Basically he said there isn't anything I should have to worry about. Now he did say that if it was unlined that I shouldn't use it for storing food. So I asked him I said what about for a BBQ, he said that I am fine. I told him that I had also burned it out and sanded it down (it was painted on the inside) he said that he could have given me one that wasn't painted.

I paid $27 and could have had it without paint in it. The name of the company is Consolidated Container Company in NE Minneapolis MN if anyone is interested. They were really good people to work with and you wouldn't have believed how many drums they have.

So if you are in the twin cities area and looking for a drum this is a good place to go.

Again thanks for all the help and information you guys have given me. I made the best pulled pork I have ever made thanks to you guys and I think Levi and Strauss will be thanking you too as I'm sure that my waistline is going to be expanding real soon.
 
I have finally acquired all of the parts and tools I need to assemble my UDS.

Now I have a few questions regarding paint (I'm looking to take the "U" out of UDS). What kind of paint do you use (other than BBQ black)? Is it necessary to use a high heat paint? If so, can I put a base coat of high heat and then paint over it with a non-high heat paint, like a rustoleum?

Many thanks to all the great ideas in this thread and I hope to be adding my build and completed pics in the near future!
 
Nice thread folks! I'm probably asking a question that has been answered before, but does anyone think there would be a problem using brass wire to fasten the expanded metal to the grill when building the charcoal basket? Since brass is used for burners, I assumed it would be safe for this purpose, but you know what happens when you assume...

Thanks!
 
This is a great thread with a lot of info...I've read quite a bit of it but still have quite away to go. I was reading last night while my second barrel burn cooled down. I found a reconditioned drum for about 20$..Being reconditioned they couldn't be sure what was in it, but from the code # they had, there should'nt have been anything hazardous in it....In the reconditioning process it was put through as blast furnace and burnt back to bare metal..Then repainted on the outside and some kind of rust prventative on the inside...I burned it twice withe flames a foot or two above the top...Each burn went about three hours...It got hot enough on the bottom to burn the paint off the outside, but only discolored the paint on the top.

Think that's hot enough or should I do it again, until I burn all of the paint off?:confused:
 
Don't worry about the outside. Wash the inside out and start building.
 
Nice thread folks! does anyone think there would be a problem using brass wire

Thanks!

I used some copper wire to tie mine together, I figure if people think a copper bracelet is good for their arthritis, then its probably ok to help make my meat tender!
 
Burried somewhere in this thread. Normal paint will work at normal operating temps. Car engine paint can take higher temps. imho the powder coated one was one of the nicest finishes.

that said - I started with an unlined barrel, so did not need to do the high temp burnout - mine still has stock paint.
 
You can also try wood stove paint. I bought some but haven't used it yet. It states on the can that it is good to 1200F. Within an hour or two of applying the paint, you're supposed to cure it for an hour at 400F or above. Probably could withstand a grease fire if cured correctly.

Anyone tried it yet? I've been putting it off.
 
I'm going to try and burn my barrel this weekend with a weed burner. I picked up some normal spray paint yesterday, as I had difficulty finding the color I want in any high temp/engine enamel.

Hopefully be posting some pics this weekend....
 
I tried joining that group when I was looking for a used kettle and the farkers denied my application. Thank goodness I found a kettle on CL.



Thats funny. I got accepted but had to give something away before they would post my Wanted ad. FFS people, I'm recycling here !!!

Davew
 
Alright man! After a bunch of runnin' around today; hardware stores-more hardware stores, down to the local steel fabricators to see the welder feller'...Well I was able to get the uds together enough to do a seasoning burn...Had a littlle trouble getting her going because I thought she was getting too hot, too quick, so I did a dumb thing and shut down the intake too much. It about snuffed the fire but I caught her at about 150* by removing all available caps and the other vent cap, then she started to climb again. Slowly at first, but before long she was back at about 220*. So I started puttin' caps and plugs back on..Got her to regulate at about 280*, stayed there for a good hour...Then a little spike to 300*, so I adjusted the intake. 45 minutes later she's about 260.....All in all I think she's doin' fine, and I'm pretty excited about gettin' her dirty with a butt, and some baby-backs this weekend...
With my selection of materials for the build, the coal basket is settin' up about an inch too high...I've only got 23" between the charcoal grate and the bottom rack...Hope it'll be ok????!!!
Still can't seem to be able to find that used webber kettle...Dang!...Supposed to rain some tomorrow....Good day for yard sales...Huumm???...I'll be cookin' with or without come sunday...Here's some pics.

This has been a fun project, and I want to take time to thank everyone for this thread. It's been a lot of help,(even though I still got a lot of readin' to do to finsh).

Firecrackerjack
____________
Dpp 60
Chargrillerpro/sfb
and a UDS...still to be finished

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Be prepared she's not real cute!

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Nearly seven hours in it's stll at 240*. Gave the basket a shake..Goin' to check again and then goin' to bed...Check it again later, or first thing in the morning.
Would it burn better If I put the eight half-inch holes in the top instead of the stack in the 2" bung hole?

Thanks again,
Firecrackerjack
 
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