D
DoctorQ
Guest
That lid looks good repainted - was it tricky to prepare the surface to take the paint...?
Thanks
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
That lid looks good repainted - was it tricky to prepare the surface to take the paint...?
Thanks
CambuiAl
Knows what a fatty is.
Diameter of Charcoal Baskets?
So - heard back from the Blacksmiths today, and they have done my grill and charcoal basket from SS:
As expected, they used the perforated metal that is more common here, but the first thing that struck me is that the charcoal basket which is 8" high is 18" wide! I think I got this slightly wrong as this is going to hold kilos of lump!
What diameter is generally thought to be right? I know 8" was suggested as the usual height (and I will be adding bolt legs to this and getting it into an ash pan) but I think I have exaggerated on the diameter. Even so - one solution I thought of is to put a couple of fire-bricks in the middle, stood on their ends, that would fill the space and reflect some heat.
So - heard back from the Blacksmiths today, and they have done my grill and charcoal basket from SS:
As expected, they used the perforated metal that is more common here, but the first thing that struck me is that the charcoal basket which is 8" high is 18" wide! I think I got this slightly wrong as this is going to hold kilos of lump!
What diameter is generally thought to be right? I know 8" was suggested as the usual height (and I will be adding bolt legs to this and getting it into an ash pan) but I think I have exaggerated on the diameter. Even so - one solution I thought of is to put a couple of fire-bricks in the middle, stood on their ends, that would fill the space and reflect some heat.
Chitown_hillbilly
Full Fledged Farker
Yea 18 might be a little big. Might have a hard time getting it in and out past the bolts that hold your grate. Mine is a "Charcoal" grate from an 18 in Weber, which makes it about 14 inches in diameter.
Richard_
is Blowin Smoke!
i don't know if any one has seen this vid. I just made a basket like this , took all of ten minutes using a recip. saw , i used a piece that was 24"x24"
[ame="http://youtu.be/I5poqrIboAE"]http://youtu.be/I5poqrIboAE[/ame]
[ame="http://youtu.be/I5poqrIboAE"]http://youtu.be/I5poqrIboAE[/ame]
CambuiAl
Knows what a fatty is.
Picked up the charcoal basket and grill from the ironworks today - stainless steel and looking good. The basket at 18" diameter is probably too big, but I think I can make it work.
Tomorrow: cleaning out the drum with the pressure hose, spray painting (primer and mat black high temp with gold decals if I get artistic) and the inauguration cook: chicken thighs for lunch with some special Brazil-style rub, and pulled pork and Boston Beans for dinner. Can't wait!
I just need the legs for the basket and a 1" bolt to secure the main ball valve, and will try the silicone oven seal for the lid.
Photos of this historic moment to follow!
Tomorrow: cleaning out the drum with the pressure hose, spray painting (primer and mat black high temp with gold decals if I get artistic) and the inauguration cook: chicken thighs for lunch with some special Brazil-style rub, and pulled pork and Boston Beans for dinner. Can't wait!
I just need the legs for the basket and a 1" bolt to secure the main ball valve, and will try the silicone oven seal for the lid.
Photos of this historic moment to follow!
RustyNutRacer
Found some matches.
Rookie Smoker here. I stumbled on this site last Monday when I started making plans to build a smoker. My original plans of building a horizontal offset smoker quickly shifted upon finding this thread. I picked up my first two drums yesterday and I am seasoning my first UDS as I type! I kept it pretty simple so it would be ready for my cookout Sunday, but I have many mods planned for the future!
I only have one question. I have a thermometer in the side of the UDS and one in the lid. They are both pretty cheap. The one in the side is a cheap char-broil unit that screws into the UDS. It is about a half inch below the cooking grate and only sticks out about two inches into the drum. The one in the lid is basically a meat thermometer that I drilled a hole in the lid for it to slide into. It is about two inches above the grate near the center of the lid. Right now the one in the lid reads 250 degrees and the one on the side reads 160 degrees. That's a pretty sizable difference and I'm not entirely sure which one to believe. Thoughts?
Liner burn out.
Ash pan scavenged from a grill I picked up along the road and homemade coal box.
Initial mock up
Spit shined and blinged out!
I only have one question. I have a thermometer in the side of the UDS and one in the lid. They are both pretty cheap. The one in the side is a cheap char-broil unit that screws into the UDS. It is about a half inch below the cooking grate and only sticks out about two inches into the drum. The one in the lid is basically a meat thermometer that I drilled a hole in the lid for it to slide into. It is about two inches above the grate near the center of the lid. Right now the one in the lid reads 250 degrees and the one on the side reads 160 degrees. That's a pretty sizable difference and I'm not entirely sure which one to believe. Thoughts?
Liner burn out.
Ash pan scavenged from a grill I picked up along the road and homemade coal box.
Initial mock up
Spit shined and blinged out!
fat_bastard
Knows what a fatty is.
Welcome to the Brethren and good looking UDS!!!
As for the thermo, you want the temp right at your grate in the middle of your drum. What you're really looking for is a turkey frying thermometer or another 12" or so thermometer. The longer probe will be right under the center of your cooking grate. I use a brass 3/8" tubing nipple threaded into side of of the drum with the barbed side inside the drum just below the grate for mine. This holds it in place quite well.
The thermo in the top of your drum will read hotter that where your food is since heat rises and it's being held there by the lid. The short one in the side, well, the drums just run cooler on the sides.
RustyNutRacer
Found some matches.
Thanks! Makes perfect sense. I had read earlier in the thread about adding about 30 degrees for a short thermometer on the side of the barrel. I just wasn't expecting a 90 degree difference. I suppose had I not been exhausted from the 24 hour build I could have pieced that info together lol! I'll pick up a long thermometer tomorrow before I start my first smoke session.
Heisenberger
Knows what a fatty is.
90 degrees seems a bit much of a difference from my experience. Is should run about 40 degrees hotter in the middle than the sides (max 50 depending on your charcoal basket). Might want to get those thermos calibrated. Maybe the 90 degrees is truthful. I've found a larger difference in temps when I use the minion method, at least in the beginning. No matter what this smoker can do no wrong
RustyNutRacer
Found some matches.
I should also mention, I used the minion method and it was early in the burn so that could also explain it too. Just checked the thermos again and they are now about 60 degrees apart.
O
oteymc
Guest
Sorry for the noob question, I have tried to read as much of this as I can - but are you leaving the inside unpainted? I have burned and then took a wire brush to the inside to remove my liner, when I rinsed it out, it is already showing some rust. Will it hurt to paint the inside with BBQ paint? Most all store bought BBQ's are painted on the inside.
Toney Marconi
Full Fledged Farker
Don't paint the inside. Knock off that surface rust, spray it down with Pam, or wipe it down with your favorite cooking oil (doesn't really matter) and light her up. Once she gets seasoned with smoke and pig fat she won't rust.
O
oteymc
Guest
Thanks!
CambuiAl
Knows what a fatty is.
I have all but finished my first UDS with help from this great site! Today I spray painted with primer, painted with high-heat resistant paint, got the handles on and added the silicone seal, which looks like it's going to work a treat.
The drum with primer:
The final coat of high-heat paint:
The gill in place and silicone seal:
The grill in place and the supports for the higher level, if I ever get a kettle lid.
The charcoal basket with the legs - it's probably too wide but will try it tomorrow:
The finished product with the handles:
I still need a way to get the main ball-valve air inlet tight - it's wobbly right now, and that means air getting in that I don't want. I don't know if some silicone sealant would do the job, or some blobs of weld? Also, I am missing the thermometer - this has been really tricky to track down in Brazil, but I found one, with a 12" spike on it, and will position it just below the lower of the two grills.
The inside is oiled up with some vegetable oil, and it's ready for the first cook tomorrow. I am preparing a rub tonight!
The drum with primer:
The final coat of high-heat paint:
The gill in place and silicone seal:
The grill in place and the supports for the higher level, if I ever get a kettle lid.
The charcoal basket with the legs - it's probably too wide but will try it tomorrow:
The finished product with the handles:
I still need a way to get the main ball-valve air inlet tight - it's wobbly right now, and that means air getting in that I don't want. I don't know if some silicone sealant would do the job, or some blobs of weld? Also, I am missing the thermometer - this has been really tricky to track down in Brazil, but I found one, with a 12" spike on it, and will position it just below the lower of the two grills.
The inside is oiled up with some vegetable oil, and it's ready for the first cook tomorrow. I am preparing a rub tonight!
Peddler
Knows what a fatty is.
CambuiAl ... I sure like your cooking grate.
I too have been having issues with thermometers so I bit the bullet and ordered a Maverick ET732 and will get yet another turkey thermometer and start over. I figured that 90 to 110* difference was too great between center and outside, Maybe not.
I too have been having issues with thermometers so I bit the bullet and ordered a Maverick ET732 and will get yet another turkey thermometer and start over. I figured that 90 to 110* difference was too great between center and outside, Maybe not.
CambuiAl
Knows what a fatty is.
Thanks Peddler - I hope my thermometer arrives tomorrow. This weekend was done with a meat-probe poked through the top, which can't have been that accurate. Sadly all those nice remote thermometers (or even the cheap basic ones) just don't seem to be available in Brazil. I am hoping to pick up an iGrill on my next return to the UK as that would be ideal for me.
Thanks - it's from a Brazilian company here in Sao Paulo, and they make various rubber and silicone products, including this that is sold per metre, specifically for industrial bread-oven doors. It costs US$8 per metre, but it's worked really well so far on an otherwise slightly wonky lid.
SuperJETT
Found some matches.
I keep thinking about a thread or two on here where members were discussing an inner/outer drum setup and filling the gap with diatomaceous earth mix to make a kamado style UDS.
We have thousands of drums at work, 10/30/55 gallon sizes and I'm considering modding my 55 gallon UDS with a 30 inside then filling the gap with fine grain play sand. Even better would be Daytona Beach sand, that stuff packs like crazy.
My plan would be to bolt the 30 gallon inside with around a 2" gap on the bottom and centered then pour the sand with it on an angle and shake/vibrate it to get good fill. The cooking grate would sit on the 30 gallon's lip since I think they are 18.5" or so diameter and I rarely use the outer inch or two of the grate now anyway.
My guess on benefits is lower fuel burn rate and more stable temps.
Thoughts? Has anyone tried it yet?
We have thousands of drums at work, 10/30/55 gallon sizes and I'm considering modding my 55 gallon UDS with a 30 inside then filling the gap with fine grain play sand. Even better would be Daytona Beach sand, that stuff packs like crazy.
My plan would be to bolt the 30 gallon inside with around a 2" gap on the bottom and centered then pour the sand with it on an angle and shake/vibrate it to get good fill. The cooking grate would sit on the 30 gallon's lip since I think they are 18.5" or so diameter and I rarely use the outer inch or two of the grate now anyway.
My guess on benefits is lower fuel burn rate and more stable temps.
Thoughts? Has anyone tried it yet?
Carbon
is Blowin Smoke!
Sand is not a good insulator.
If I were doing this I would use a mix of portland cement and vermiculite......I don't remember the exact ratio. I've used this mixture to insulate parts of my pizza oven and the mixture when cured weighs very little. You can use either vermiculite or perlite which can be found in most nurseries, including Home Depot.
SuperJETT
Found some matches.
Sand is not bad actually, not as good as 'insulation' like rockwool or fiberglass of course, but it's thermal conductivity is lower than portland cement and having some thermal mass is a good thing to keep temps stable. Plus, it's very easy to work with.
Are you talking about using the cement dry or mixing with water? Getting the moisture out of a 2" layer between 2 steel drums would be an issue where the sand is going to be very low in moisture content to begin with.
Just thinking outloud and looking at other options, thanks.
Are you talking about using the cement dry or mixing with water? Getting the moisture out of a 2" layer between 2 steel drums would be an issue where the sand is going to be very low in moisture content to begin with.
Just thinking outloud and looking at other options, thanks.
