DevineSwine
Full Fledged Farker
This has to be the longest running thread of any website :crazy:
I would guess too much wood. I have gone to using Kingsford blue with about 2 or 3 cups of wood chips. If using chunks, I would go with 5 or 6 spaced out amount the briquets or lump.
ONce the cook gets going, you are going to see white smoke due to the fat dripping on the fire.
I've never heard that about a thermometer before. I've been using a $5 turkey fryer thermo from Wally World for two years now. Guess I (and thousands of others) have been doing it wrong. Sounds bogus to me. You will get different readings from different places in the drum, and depending on how much meat you have in it. I plan to add a short thermo that reads near the edges. There are a lot of them made with a 2-1/2" stem.
After going through maybe a hundred or so pages of this thread I wonder if the ball valve is really necessary?
I owned several WSMs and they didn't have those.
Why not have 4 to six vent holes and just use cork as plugs?
Is the ball valve really a big asset to this design?
After going through maybe a hundred or so pages of this thread I wonder if the ball valve is really necessary?
I owned several WSMs and they didn't have those.
Why not have 4 to six vent holes and just use cork as plugs?
Is the ball valve really a big asset to this design?
In this case the important thing to have is a flexible design that allows infinite control of air flow. Plugging an entire hole to reduce temps may be too much. With a ball valve or magnet you can do really small adjustments to dial in temps. It just depends on how much you want to control those temps. For most things it probably doesn't matter as long as you are in the ballpark so corks may be the ticket!After going through maybe a hundred or so pages of this thread I wonder if the ball valve is really necessary?
I owned several WSMs and they didn't have those.
Why not have 4 to six vent holes and just use cork as plugs?
Is the ball valve really a big asset to this design?
When I am cooking and cruising along at 225, the ball valve is about 25% open. I think it is needed unless you have a better way to reduce the airflow as well as it does. You can really fine tune it with the valve.
Lots of folks, including me, went for a round magnet over the intake holes instead of nipples/caps and a ball valve. Works like a champ.
In this case the important thing to have is a flexible design that allows infinite control of air flow. Plugging an entire hole to reduce temps may be too much. With a ball valve or magnet you can do really small adjustments to dial in temps. It just depends on how much you want to control those temps. For most things it probably doesn't matter as long as you are in the ballpark so corks may be the ticket!
I went with a ball valve so I didn't have to bend over all the time to adjust the intake. What can I say? I'm lazy like that! :laugh:
In this case the important thing to have is a flexible design that allows infinite control of air flow. Plugging an entire hole to reduce temps may be too much. With a ball valve or magnet you can do really small adjustments to dial in temps. It just depends on how much you want to control those temps. For most things it probably doesn't matter as long as you are in the ballpark so corks may be the ticket!
I went with a ball valve so I didn't have to bend over all the time to adjust the intake. What can I say? I'm lazy like that! :laugh: