Should I polyurethane my cedar BGE table???

C

coastrat

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Need advice:
I am putting together my cedar BGE table and would like your opinion on protecting it. As you know, cedar turns gray pretty quick when it's exposed to the elements. I purchased a can of clear polyurethane (satin finish) to prevent the graying and protect it from BBQ sauce stains, etc.

Am I making a mistake by "painting" my cedar table?




I'd rather be smoking on my 1990 Imperial Kamado.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Make sure it's the "helmsman" made for outdoors (and uv protected). Of course you won't be using it as a cutting board so lay it on nice nod thick.
 
I wouldn't. When moisture gets under the finish (and it will) you'll start to see a lot of blemishes and peeling. that will be the moisture trying to escape from under the finish.
Cedar will go silver without a finish on it and it will not rot unless it's in constant contact with water.
Let it go silver like the rest of us.
 
I should mention that I keep my smoker on a covered patio.

It was an expensive table, so I hate to let it turn gray.

I'm now leaning towards just a dark stain. Mostly so it will "match" the dark bronze patio columns and furniture. Is that gay?


I'd rather be smoking on my 1990 Imperial Kamado.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I put 5 coats of the boat-grade on ours some three+years ago and it still looks great. Even with the UV protection, it still fades. I have some tiles on it to rest hot items and the color under the tiles is quite a bit darker. Ours is under a patio roof too.
 
coastrat said:
It was an expensive table, so I hate to let it turn gray.
Click to expand...


I think you've answered your own question. I say stain and seal it. Just make sure you use the exterior stuff. An interior sealant will start to flake in nothing flat(don't ask me how I know, I just know,It's not like I've ever made that mistake, that'd be crazy)

Matt
 
How about some kind of oil rub?
That way it'll be protected, won't peel, and is easy to reapply.
There's butcher block grade (food grade) carnuba wax too.

Just a couple ideas. But I'm not an "outdoor wood" woodworker.
 
What Bob said, I would go with an oil, soak in, leave to dry, soak in again, repeat.

A Family member has some hardwood decking that is over 20yrs old and looks brand new....it get's oiled regular, that's the secret.

Water based stains or 'preservatives' will eventually peel and/or allow moisture in.
 
Make sure you have given it a chance to weather some. If there is moisture in the wood you will get peeling. I would wait until you get some good warm low humidity weather.
 
I stained my table with a weatherized stain its been close to a year and it looks new still. I just wipe it down once a week or every other week and its good to go. I did not use a finish because it starts to peel after a while. Here are a few pics.

Before stain
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360463095.764733.jpg

After stain
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360463148.756474.jpg

With the akorn
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360463217.156099.jpg

Let us know how she turns out.:)


Jrow
 
Thanks for all the replies fellas. Especially the tip about using the exterior stains. I ended up going with a stain + sealer in one by Olympia. Thats the only brand Lowes carries in a quart size. I didn't stain the bottom of the planks or legs. Figured that would give moisture a route to escape. Still not sure if I'm going to poly the top and I need to add the bottle opener when I find it.

Here's the money shot with my antique Kamado:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360501087.058110.jpg

Zoomed out:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360501155.055998.jpg


I'd rather be smoking on my 1990 Imperial Kamado...the predecessor to the BGE.
 
Looks great except for the lonely Weber left out to survive the next hurricane. Where did you get your kamado ?
 
Personally, I would put exactly on your table as you do to your fence. If you're looking for suggestions, I've had great luck with the Thompson's silicone deck and fence stuff I bought at HD several years ago. I think it's all been replaced with Behr at that chain now. Check for food safty too.

dmp
 
I recommend going with a marine varnish such as "Heilsman," you can get it at lowes or home depot, a bit expensive BUT if you use poly you will be wasteing your money because it will flake and peel quickly, then you get to sand it down and apply the marine varnish anyway, so skip the poly. Put it right to it too, use the whole can, you won't regret it and most importantly, let it cure long enough. Put it in a warm place for a week or two so it can dry and set up enough, once cured put it to good use! best of luck, ~Anthony
 
coastrat said:
Thanks for all the replies fellas. Especially the tip about using the exterior stains. I ended up going with a stain + sealer in one by Olympia. Thats the only brand Lowes carries in a quart size. I didn't stain the bottom of the planks or legs. Figured that would give moisture a route to escape. Still not sure if I'm going to poly the top and I need to add the bottle opener when I find it.

Here's the money shot with my antique Kamado:
View attachment 75665

Zoomed out:
View attachment 75666


I'd rather be smoking on my 1990 Imperial Kamado...the predecessor to the BGE.
Click to expand...

I am thinking of doing a table similar to this. What did the table cost you to build? That includes the stain finish.
 
Good looking table. I used Olympia brand on a cedar fence it's been going on three years and still looks good.


Jrow
 
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