ebijack
Babbling Farker
Nice !
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
RT
Full Fledged Farker
Good looking UDS there!
KC_Law_Dog
MemberGot rid of the matchlight.
Man those two look great! Did you know someone for the powder coating? I'm wondering what something like that would cost. I believe the business a friend works at can powder coat, just not sure if they can do something of this size.
PullMyPenang
Well-known member
I got my barrels the other day. I'm using 2 55 gallon barrels. I cut the lid & bottom out of one to use as the center section. The 2nd barrel, I cut on the top of each center rib to use as a base & a lid.
The 3 sections fit pretty tightly...should seal up nicely.
From left to right: Top, center, lid.
Here they are stacked.
I cut everything with a cutoff wheel on my angle-grinder. I left about 3/4" lip on the inside top & bottom, so that the center section will keep some structure. I may have to grind away some once I get the grills.
Note: They were both a seafoam green color w/ a bit of rust until I burned them out.
Well, other than paint & some sort of damper on the intake & chimney, it's done.
I picked up 2 replacement Weber grates & a Weber bottom grate at Lowes, along with several nuts & bolts. I then stopped at a metal supply place & bought a 12 3/4" x 50" piece of heavy guage expanded metal. Then I finally stopped by Walmart & got 2 thermometers for the smoker, and then 2 remote digital meat thermometers (all on closeout).
On the way home, I stopped at a buddy's house & picked up an old post jack (3" od) to use for intake & chimney (black iron pipe was going to cost over $25 for enough and this was free).
After several hours with the torches, welder, hole saws, etc., we have smoke.
I ended up with the first grate at 24" above the bottom of the charcoal basket, and the top grate about 14" above that. The thermometers are within 1/2" of the grates.
here's some more pics from today:
I put it through it's paces again tonight. I had it up to 800* for about 15 minutes 4 times & then let it sit at 500 for another 1hr. It's been holding 250* with the coals from that for the past 2 hrs w/ using foil as a damper on the intake & exhaust.
I still want to put some handles on it, paint it, and build dampers, but it's at least ready for meat now.
This is one of my favorite units yet! (he says years and thousands of posts later)
Edit OK 5000 posts in and I am switching to scanning a posts and looking at pictures. from what I can see I'm not even halfway through...
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HAndyman
Knows what a fatty is.
Saleensuperstang
Found some matches.
It's a local business where I live. He charged 100.00 to sand blast and powdercoat the two drums, two flat lids and the weber lid. He hung them when he did them and the bottoms are coated also. They are baked at 400 degrees and the coating is good for 800 so it should last.
KC_Law_Dog
MemberGot rid of the matchlight.
That's not bad at all for two drums and the lids. You took the ugly right out of them! I think wives might let us keep them out if they all looked that good. :heh:
R
R8ter87
Guest
Yeah it only took a day to see the small surface rust on my barrel. I finish painting today and have her running on her first light up right now.
R
R8ter87
Guest
Light a UDS
I light my UDS today for the first time.
I loaded up the charcoal basket with Kingsford charcoal and added 15 light briquettes to the top on the basket.
It is defiantly smoking but is taking a while to reach the 220-250 range.
Any tips on lighting a UDS?
How does everyone else light theirs and what is the estimated time to get into the smoking range?
I light my UDS today for the first time.
I loaded up the charcoal basket with Kingsford charcoal and added 15 light briquettes to the top on the basket.
It is defiantly smoking but is taking a while to reach the 220-250 range.
Any tips on lighting a UDS?
How does everyone else light theirs and what is the estimated time to get into the smoking range?
Saleensuperstang
Found some matches.
Mine took about 10 minutes to get to 250. I did the same charcoal in the basket, lit a chimney about half full till white and poured on top. When I set the basket in the drum and put the lid on I leave the 3/4 valve fully open and all 3 3/4 caps off till my temp hit 225. At that point I install the 3 caps and back off on the valve to halfway and then go from there. I had to play with it a couple of times then it was set.I light my UDS today for the first time.
I loaded up the charcoal basket with Kingsford charcoal and added 15 light briquettes to the top on the basket.
It is defiantly smoking but is taking a while to reach the 220-250 range.
Any tips on lighting a UDS?
How does everyone else light theirs and what is the estimated time to get into the smoking range?
R
R8ter87
Guest
UDS Lighting
Hey thanks for the help I think next time I will start with more burning briquettes.:thumb:
Hey thanks for the help I think next time I will start with more burning briquettes.:thumb:
G
Georgiaboy
Guest
My Georgia themed UDS
Here is a buildup of the UDS I built for the UGA/Clemson game Saturday. All ideas save a couple where directly inspired by y'all. The only changes made by me were the piece of expanded metal over the fire basket (to catch the juice rain and vaporize it) and the lid, which I made out of the top of another drum ( since buying a Weber lid requires an an act of congress). This thing is sick! I did a 9 hour burn @ 190 and only used 1/4 of the charcoal I had in the basket! Thanks for the tips y'all!......well, it's telling me I need some kind of security token to upload the photos. That sucks, cuz I really wanted y'all to see it. It's a beauty...I guess I enjoyed my short stay here, if you can't post pics it kinda defeats the purpose. I guess I'll post this, then I'm out. Y'all have fun!
Here is a buildup of the UDS I built for the UGA/Clemson game Saturday. All ideas save a couple where directly inspired by y'all. The only changes made by me were the piece of expanded metal over the fire basket (to catch the juice rain and vaporize it) and the lid, which I made out of the top of another drum ( since buying a Weber lid requires an an act of congress). This thing is sick! I did a 9 hour burn @ 190 and only used 1/4 of the charcoal I had in the basket! Thanks for the tips y'all!......well, it's telling me I need some kind of security token to upload the photos. That sucks, cuz I really wanted y'all to see it. It's a beauty...I guess I enjoyed my short stay here, if you can't post pics it kinda defeats the purpose. I guess I'll post this, then I'm out. Y'all have fun!
PullMyPenang
Well-known member
The label says food grade and keeps the wife happy?
Honestly I'd feel safer with a bare steel drum that had some sort of oil or antifreeze in it than something that used to have some plastic or epoxy liner sealed to the surface.
Steel is steel for the most part. Tupperware is food safe, but not with a fire in it. Context is key.
WOO! I can't claim to have read every word but I did read the first 5k posts and have put my eyeballs on every page since. Learned a lot, Starting the parts hunt tomorrow.
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Pasmadj
Got Wood.
First "Burn" temperature control struggles
Hello All.
Well, I have completed the outward appearance of my UDS. I still have some stenciling to do on the lid, and I have to fabricate the basket.
Other than that, the drum is functional.
Since the yellow and blue "engine paint" cans said to cure the paint at 200 deg for 1 hour, I did that for my first "burn".
I used my charcoal starter chimney since I have not yet made a basket.
I filled the starter 1/2 with Kinsgsford blue, and dropped a lit starter cube on top of them. When I was sure that the coals were beginning to catch, I put on the lid.
I have 2 3/4" inlet pipes, and 1 1" ball valve inlet. I have 4 1" exhaust ports.
Initially I had all of the inlets open 100%.
I monitored the temps with my iGrill - probes on a cooking grate.
When the temp started climbing fast, and reached 110 deg, I capped one of the 3/4" inlets.
When the temp reached 160 deg, I capped the other 3/4" inlet.
When the temp reached 180, I turned the valve to about 50%. I did not want to over shoot and risk overheating the paint.
I was real happy with how I was able to control the temp rise.
The temp peaked at 192, and then started dropping.
I began to tweak the valve in an effort to stabilize it around 200 degF.
This is when the head-scratching began.
When I opened the valve just a little further, the temp would rise past 200 to 210 or 215.
When I adusted the valve back a little (very little, it seemed), the temp would drop back and keep going past 200 - down into the 180s.
I monitored and tweaked for about 2 or 3 hours - chasing the temp up and down. My top priority was to keep the temp around 200 for about 2 hours - for the paint. After that, I tried hard to get it to flatten out and stabilize. I never did accomplish that. My small amount of charcoal ran out after about 4 hours.
Any thoughts?
I really took my time building this UDS. I don't think there are any air leaks - that I know of.
Is the amount of charcoal and what I put it in (chimney) significant?
I know that it is not good to restrict the exhaust - better to control temps with the inlets. The area of 4 1" holes is equal to 1 2" hole - which is what many have used. Does the size of the exhaust significantly affect the temperature stability?
Hello All.
Well, I have completed the outward appearance of my UDS. I still have some stenciling to do on the lid, and I have to fabricate the basket.
Other than that, the drum is functional.
Since the yellow and blue "engine paint" cans said to cure the paint at 200 deg for 1 hour, I did that for my first "burn".
I used my charcoal starter chimney since I have not yet made a basket.
I filled the starter 1/2 with Kinsgsford blue, and dropped a lit starter cube on top of them. When I was sure that the coals were beginning to catch, I put on the lid.
I have 2 3/4" inlet pipes, and 1 1" ball valve inlet. I have 4 1" exhaust ports.
Initially I had all of the inlets open 100%.
I monitored the temps with my iGrill - probes on a cooking grate.
When the temp started climbing fast, and reached 110 deg, I capped one of the 3/4" inlets.
When the temp reached 160 deg, I capped the other 3/4" inlet.
When the temp reached 180, I turned the valve to about 50%. I did not want to over shoot and risk overheating the paint.
I was real happy with how I was able to control the temp rise.
The temp peaked at 192, and then started dropping.
I began to tweak the valve in an effort to stabilize it around 200 degF.
This is when the head-scratching began.
When I opened the valve just a little further, the temp would rise past 200 to 210 or 215.
When I adusted the valve back a little (very little, it seemed), the temp would drop back and keep going past 200 - down into the 180s.
I monitored and tweaked for about 2 or 3 hours - chasing the temp up and down. My top priority was to keep the temp around 200 for about 2 hours - for the paint. After that, I tried hard to get it to flatten out and stabilize. I never did accomplish that. My small amount of charcoal ran out after about 4 hours.
Any thoughts?
I really took my time building this UDS. I don't think there are any air leaks - that I know of.
Is the amount of charcoal and what I put it in (chimney) significant?
I know that it is not good to restrict the exhaust - better to control temps with the inlets. The area of 4 1" holes is equal to 1 2" hole - which is what many have used. Does the size of the exhaust significantly affect the temperature stability?
Attachments
SmokinJohn
Babbling Farker
Read N8Man's thread on lighting the basket. You must follow it at least three times before you deviate.
Here is my quick and dirty method.:
FILL the basket.
Open all intake and exhaust ports.
Fire up the basket (using the 10-15 coals you set aside when you read N8Man's thread).
Let's say your target temp is 225.
Leave the exhaust alone (The only time you should mess with this is as a last resort, or when you are done cooking.
Leave the Ball Valve alone (this is your "Trimmer")
When the temp reaches 190, cap ONE inlet and watch your gauge
When the temp reaches 215, cap the SECOND inlet and watch your gauge
If the temp is still climbing, use the ball valve and close it 50%.
If the temp is not climbing, then remove the cap on the SECOND inlet, and close the BALL VALVE 75%. Use the Ball Valve to raise or lower the temp.
Assuming you have no leaks, this should solve your problem.
On my UDS ("Redneck thread" version on the post with a ball valve with a 2' extension and a weber lid for exhaust), I usually wind up with one valve capped, the second open, and the ball valve in the 50-75% range closed to get 225-275 (depending on wind conditions).
Pasmadj
Got Wood.
Hello SmokinJohn.
Thanks for the very quick response!
I will find and read N8Man's post about lighting.
The next time I light it, I am going to target higher temps - maybe up to 300 deg to bake off any final undesireables.
Do you think that my temp control struggles were because I was trying to stabilize at 200? Do you think most UDSs stabilize better at 225 or higher?
How tightly are others able to control the temps? How often do you usually have to tweak the valve during a cook?
Thanks for the very quick response!
I will find and read N8Man's post about lighting.
The next time I light it, I am going to target higher temps - maybe up to 300 deg to bake off any final undesireables.
Do you think that my temp control struggles were because I was trying to stabilize at 200? Do you think most UDSs stabilize better at 225 or higher?
How tightly are others able to control the temps? How often do you usually have to tweak the valve during a cook?
Cue-Ball
Found some matches.
Built mine last week. Ran it this weekend with some ribs and some moinks.
1. The liner was a BITCH to get out. Burned it out, and still had to spend a few hours crawled inside with a flapper wheel. :homer:
2. Expanded metal is a bitch to weld with an arc welder :laughing:
3. One thing I haven't seen anyone else do is put magnets on the feet of the fire basket. That way, I can attach or un-attach the ash pan at will. Makes it easy to get in and out of the drum and still can use the propane burner to start it if I want to.
Pictures of the finished product and the finished products:
1. The liner was a BITCH to get out. Burned it out, and still had to spend a few hours crawled inside with a flapper wheel. :homer:
2. Expanded metal is a bitch to weld with an arc welder :laughing:
3. One thing I haven't seen anyone else do is put magnets on the feet of the fire basket. That way, I can attach or un-attach the ash pan at will. Makes it easy to get in and out of the drum and still can use the propane burner to start it if I want to.
Pictures of the finished product and the finished products:
Attachments
spinningwheel
Knows what a fatty is.
Cue-Ball;
Looking good brother, some great prOn there. The only problem that I can think of with magnets is that they loose their effectiveness when heated. IDK if the heat is high enough to affect them, but the mess left behind if they drop the ash pan will be a PITA.
Looking good brother, some great prOn there. The only problem that I can think of with magnets is that they loose their effectiveness when heated. IDK if the heat is high enough to affect them, but the mess left behind if they drop the ash pan will be a PITA.
ebijack
Babbling Farker
For those that are working on a removable ash pan, If you look closely you can see the 2 pieces of brass wire I use to keep my ash pan attached, I've had the UDS over 600 degs for 4 hours and the wire did not melt. It is very flexible easy to unhook to dump the ash. Bought a roll at the hardware store, I've used the wire for a lot of other stuff over the years. The metal pizza pan is from wallyworld.
Geordie888
Well-known member
Anyone who has used steel wire to hold their charcoal basket together, what thickness is best? I don't want something I need a bodybuilder to twist and don't want something that'll melt/break due to being thin.
Thanks
Thanks
