jcinadr
Knows what a fatty is.
Used the cheep tabletop grill and a pizza pan as ash trays - preferred the pizza pan as I think I get better air flow.
Ugly Drum Smoker
- Thread starter jgh1204
- Start date
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
Playing around with the long thermometer, putting it in at 90 degrees to the barrel without the stone in there shows about 25f hotter than sticking it straight down from the top to about the same location. So the higher temp from 90 degree orientation must be because more surface area is exposed to radiant heating from below ?
SmokeGut
Knows what a fatty is.
Hey everyone. I am about to begin my UDS build and will keep you all updated with photoes. I bought a drum with the orangish liner in it and just had someone sandblast the inside and outside of it for $75.00
I read most of the pages on this thread, was just wondering if anyone recommends a certain build plan thats most popular for the UDS, or are they pretty much all the same? Is it worth just buying a kit with the basket, thermometer, handle and everything or is that much more money that way? Thanks
I read most of the pages on this thread, was just wondering if anyone recommends a certain build plan thats most popular for the UDS, or are they pretty much all the same? Is it worth just buying a kit with the basket, thermometer, handle and everything or is that much more money that way? Thanks
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capnrob97
Guest
I am starting to path to my first UDS build. Found a place downtown that sells new unlined 55 gallon drums for $70. Decided to go that route instead of dealing with the liner in a food grade barrel.
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
The kits might be ok, you just to ask yourself "there IS $129 worth of stuff in the kit, but is it the exact "stuff" I really want" ??
And on the unlined drum, probably well worth it to not have to burn epoxy from the inside
.jcinadr
Knows what a fatty is.
Not sure what is in the "kit". I bet I could come up with $120 of stuff if I tried, but that does not mean it is all in the kit. Normal stuff would be 3 1/4" bolts, 3 1/4" nuts, 3 1/4" acorn nuts, possibly 6 1/4" washers, a Weber grate (and many double all of that and install 2 grates). Normal build has 3 3/4" close pipe nipples, 2 3/4" caps, a 3/4" ball valve, 6 3/4" conduit nuts (but some people just use magnets to close the holes). Personally I preferred brass nipples and plugs, they cost a bit more but are less maintenance - but then again now I use a guru and that is a completely different story.
The fire basket takes a decent chunk of expanded metal (I think I made 2 from a half sheet - but you can use a bit less if you use a donated charcoal grate), then you will normally want an ash pan. You will also want a pit thermometer. I also have a few valve stems on mine to act as gourmets for temp probes.
The top has a bunch of options, depending on your drum. If you use an open top, you can just remove the bung hole and screw in a smoke stack (and something to cover it) - or drill a few holes (arghhhh, all the rain will come into your barrel). Many people prefer a Weber lid.
Then there is building equipment - step bits and burner. Kit probably does not include this $40-50 of stuff.
Oh, did not mention the basket handle. I like my system of a re-bar chicken's foot. The base is below the ash pan and the leg goes up through the basket. Grab the leg and the whole assembly lifts up, plus the feet give some insulation between the drum bottom and the ash pan - but it requires welding.
The fire basket takes a decent chunk of expanded metal (I think I made 2 from a half sheet - but you can use a bit less if you use a donated charcoal grate), then you will normally want an ash pan. You will also want a pit thermometer. I also have a few valve stems on mine to act as gourmets for temp probes.
The top has a bunch of options, depending on your drum. If you use an open top, you can just remove the bung hole and screw in a smoke stack (and something to cover it) - or drill a few holes (arghhhh, all the rain will come into your barrel). Many people prefer a Weber lid.
Then there is building equipment - step bits and burner. Kit probably does not include this $40-50 of stuff.
Oh, did not mention the basket handle. I like my system of a re-bar chicken's foot. The base is below the ash pan and the leg goes up through the basket. Grab the leg and the whole assembly lifts up, plus the feet give some insulation between the drum bottom and the ash pan - but it requires welding.
1FUNVET
Babbling Farker
You forgot the most important item--------Beer :laugh::laugh:
shazam
Well-known member
i believe i used 3/8" SS eye bolts(3) from tsc with fender washers. hand picked for the largest gap. still had to use a hammer to tap one onto the 3/4X #9. z
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capnrob97
Guest
While waiting for parts to come in the mail, I gave my barrel a paint job.
May add a few 'Toxic' or 'Hazardous' stencils on it as well.
May add a few 'Toxic' or 'Hazardous' stencils on it as well.
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bholtzinger
Guest
I am in the process of building 6 more and that is the theme I am going with. Yours looks good.
E
eppo
Guest
Just put this one together!
Can't wait to try it out!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Can't wait to try it out!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Just put this one together!
Can't wait to try it out!
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
That thing is going to spil if you don't set it upright. :tongue:
bass7858
Well-known member
Opinions from the Masters solicited
I have built 3 uds's. They all came out real well. Dome lids, double cook racks, 15 inch round charcoal baskets, as pans etc.
The first one i built started out as super simple. Drilled 4 intake holes and used sheet magnets to control air intake. That actually works good except i had them stuck directly to the side of the drum and after about 2-3 hours at heat they start loosin their "sticky power".
Ok..insert nipples and weld them in. Prob solved. But now i'm startin to think i want to build me a flat top to play around with and was just "thinkin" about makin the air intake a bit simpler.
i read about bds cookers and how they use some kind of plugs in 8 or 10 holes. Low heat= 1 or 2 plugs open...more heat = more holes open.
what kind of plugs????? Brethren are always talkin about using silicon to seal air leaks...so i did a search on silicon plugs....and found a LOT of co.'s
makin them. they use them in powder coating and electro baking.
withstand 600 degrees F.
Any of u guys (like maybe Norco) have any thoughts on using these plugs?
I have built 3 uds's. They all came out real well. Dome lids, double cook racks, 15 inch round charcoal baskets, as pans etc.
The first one i built started out as super simple. Drilled 4 intake holes and used sheet magnets to control air intake. That actually works good except i had them stuck directly to the side of the drum and after about 2-3 hours at heat they start loosin their "sticky power".
Ok..insert nipples and weld them in. Prob solved. But now i'm startin to think i want to build me a flat top to play around with and was just "thinkin" about makin the air intake a bit simpler.
i read about bds cookers and how they use some kind of plugs in 8 or 10 holes. Low heat= 1 or 2 plugs open...more heat = more holes open.
what kind of plugs????? Brethren are always talkin about using silicon to seal air leaks...so i did a search on silicon plugs....and found a LOT of co.'s
makin them. they use them in powder coating and electro baking.
withstand 600 degrees F.
Any of u guys (like maybe Norco) have any thoughts on using these plugs?
CraftWerks-RC
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
My first UDS!
I've had this barrel for sometime now and I'm finally getting around to building my first UDS. It was a brand new barrel and had only been painted (in-n-out) when I got my hands on it.
About an hour or so with the wire wheel and she is looking good from the inside out.
At the same time, also put in my 3 vent pipes and plug welded up a couple small holes that were drilled into the bottom.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this site and mostly to this thread... I have just about read every page at this point, I just wish I could remember it all. LOL.
I've had this barrel for sometime now and I'm finally getting around to building my first UDS. It was a brand new barrel and had only been painted (in-n-out) when I got my hands on it.
About an hour or so with the wire wheel and she is looking good from the inside out.
At the same time, also put in my 3 vent pipes and plug welded up a couple small holes that were drilled into the bottom.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this site and mostly to this thread... I have just about read every page at this point, I just wish I could remember it all. LOL.
C
capnrob97
Guest
willbird
Full Fledged Farker
I can see no reason they would not work
. it might be nice to have a short slice of pipe to push them into, say take a 6" nipple and cut it into pieces, or ask the HW store to cut you however 1" long slices you wanted .bass7858
Well-known member
Thanks Will. good idea. And a bump back to the top!!
jw177
Is lookin for wood to cook with.
Ok, I have gathered almost everything for UDS build. I have a couple questions: What thermometer are most using to mount on the drum, i have an ET-73 as well. Where are you uys finding the high temp paint in other than balck, silver or white?
Thanks!
Thanks!
C
capnrob97
Guest
Yep, engine paint from any auto parts store.
