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EUDS - Electric Ugly Drum Smoker

Mark Warren said:
Damn That little bugger really puts it out.
Click to expand...

Yea Mark, blew me away at the output. I used pellets, may have to use wood chips so as to cut down on the smoke.

I'm not a good bbq cook (yet) so I don't know if one can have too much smoke and ruin the cook. But I'll learn soon enough. :thumb:
 
Marvin said:
Yea Mark, blew me away at the output. I used pellets, may have to use wood chips so as to cut down on the smoke.

I'm not a good bbq cook (yet) so I don't know if one can have too much smoke and ruin the cook. But I'll learn soon enough. :thumb:
Click to expand...

I have a Smoke Daddy Magnum and use pellets.
I get it well smoking then after about a half hour I turn the pump off.
it cruises along for hours after that, Just need to tap it every so often to settle the fuel.
Hope this is of help
 
AussieTitch said:
I have a Smoke Daddy Magnum and use pellets.
I get it well smoking then after about a half hour I turn the pump off.
it cruises along for hours after that, Just need to tap it every so often to settle the fuel.
Hope this is of help
Click to expand...

I didn't think of that, was thinking about using a valve to slow the air output from the air pump. But once it's smoking, just let the normal air flow take care of it.

Thanks Aussie! :thumb:
 
Ok, so this is where the fun part starts ... the electrical components.

So in addition to the 220v heating element ...

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This is the electrical box that will house the wiring terminal strip, the SSR and it's heat-sink and power cord.

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The power cord.

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The wall outlet that the cord will plug into.

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Here is the SSR (Solid State Relay) mounted on it's heat-sink.

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K type Thermocouple (4 inch probe) for PID temperature controller.

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The PID ...
Manufacturer: Auber Instruments
Model Num: SYL-2352

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Aluminum enclosure for the PID. Will mount this on the side of the barrel.

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High heat wire (that you will find in ovens and ranges) to wire from the SSR to the heating element.

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Here are a couple of wiring diagrams.

The first diagram is from the manufacture of the PID showing a 120v diagram and a 240v diagram.

The second diagram is mine, I changed things up a little. Even though the PID can run off 240v, I did not want that going to to it. So I'll run 120v to the PID and I want a wall receptacle so i can plug a fan, radio, light or anything else I may want to that would only need 120v.

Manufactures Wiring Diagrams:

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My Wiring Diagram:

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vafish said:
My kids spend their summers working at a boy scout camp. Last summer my oldest son brought a uds down with him to camp. He started cooking pulled pork on their days off. Then a big storm came through and knocked out power to the camp. Power was out for a week. Camp was closes, but the staff stayed there to clean up.

Son ended up cooking for 70+ people a day on his

That's fantastic that your son could provide for that many during a power outage, I'd be proud as well. Now can everyone get off the power outage issue, yes this is an electric smoker, I'm sure Marvin is not building it for a dooms day situation. You all are correct it's electric, therefore, if the power is out Marvin can't smoke on the particular unit. I'm loving this build and can't wait to see more, keep up the good work Marvin, electric or not.
Click to expand...
 
JONESY said:
vafish said:
My kids spend their summers working at a boy scout camp. Last summer my oldest son brought a uds down with him to camp. He started cooking pulled pork on their days off. Then a big storm came through and knocked out power to the camp. Power was out for a week. Camp was closes, but the staff stayed there to clean up.

Son ended up cooking for 70+ people a day on his
Click to expand...

That's fantastic that your son could provide for that many during a power outage, I'd be proud as well. Now can everyone get off the power outage issue, yes this is an electric smoker, I'm sure Marvin is not building it for a dooms day situation. You all are correct it's electric, therefore, if the power is out Marvin can't smoke on the particular unit. I'm loving this build and can't wait to see more, keep up the good work Marvin, electric or not.
Click to expand...

That's ok Jonesy, I knew some would not prefer this setup. But I do and hopefully my work (as others before me have done) will help others who are thinking about this type of setup.

I think more will be interested once I do the 30 gal 120v version.

Again, thank you for the encouragement. :thumb:
 
I got it so far. I appreciated your diagram. great idea to have 120 outlet as well. I am interested to see how it all comes together.
 
I am much more comfortable with 12v DC power so my question is this....the heating element is wired directly to the power line that is plugged into the 220 outlet with the pid/ssr turning it on and off... What is it about the heating element that keeps it from drawing too much power and throwing the breaker?
 
wrenfro12 said:
I am much more comfortable with 12v DC power so my question is this....the heating element is wired directly to the power line that is plugged into the 220 outlet with the pid/ssr turning it on and off... What is it about the heating element that keeps it from drawing too much power and throwing the breaker?
Click to expand...

The element will heat to it's max wattage (all elements do this). Based on max wattage, I have the breaker sized acrodanly (plus 5% as I want to run other things off the 120v outlet). Additionally, I have a fuse in the electrical box sized to the max of what the element should draw. If the element draws more (as it could when it ages), it will pop the local fuse and should never get back to the breaker. However, if the fuse does not do it's job, the last man standing (the breaker) should do it's job.

Also, I could double fuse each hot side (120v) of the element but that's a bit of an overkill.

To be honest, I just put the fuse in for the drawing to make others feel comfortable, I will not be using a fuse in my implementation, the breaker should do it's job and I'm fine with it (I'm not building a retail unit that has to comply with UL standards).
 
J-Rod said:
Would be interesting to see the fuel cost comparison in electricity consumed vs. charcoal cost...

While I applaud your outside the box approach, charcoal-fueled UDS's are already set and forget! And I'm with bluedawg on the power going out issue- Better have a generator handy so you don't ruin a cook!

Interested to see what your smoke producing setup will be. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I doubt it will be that bad - I used to have one of the ECB electric smokers, which actually is just a variation on this exact same thing - no controls, just a coil that plugs in for on, unplug for off.

It wasn't too bad on the electricity - barely noticed anything on the monthly bill even using it a couple times per week.
 
Mark Warren said:
I am just curious how the smoke aspect comes in to play here. Do you put a little smoke wood chip box inside or what?
Click to expand...

I'd go with a smoke bomb - chips wrapped in foil about baseball size and holes poked in it. They work really well and usually don't leave much mess to clean up (the ash usually stays in the ball of foil and you can just remove the used 'bomb' after the cook is over).
 
Well, I took a little different path ...

Once I got to using the wire wheel and got tired of that and looked at the $20 (or so) cost in spray paint, I decided to have the barrel sand blasted and powder coated. The shop I've used for other items made me a great offer and I with with it. So here it is ...

I went with green.

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The inside sand blasted.

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With the weber lid on it.

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Working on the electrical components tonight and tomorrow, pics of that process coming shortly.
 
I didn't get as far as I would have liked to on the electrical components and box this evening but here is the start of it.

Drilled the hole on the side of the electrical box for the connector to hole the power cord.

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I do not plan to hard wire the PID power and SSR connections. I want them to have two prong male plugs so that if I need to remove the PID housing or the electrical box housing from the barrel, I can just unplug. I cut a hole in the other side of the electrical box so that a receptacle could be mounted.

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