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Ugly Drum Smoker

Locking lids

"CLEAN 55 GALLON DRUMS WITH LOCKING TOPS. THEY HAD CARAMEL IN A BAG INSIDE OF THE DRUMS SO THEY SMELL GOOD."

I found this ad selling 55 gallon drums. what is the red stuff inside, is that paint? I figure this will fit the bill nicely but just wanted to get a second opinion before spending the time to drive out to this place. The drums are a good deal at 10 bucks, so if anyone is looking for a drum near milwaukee or the fox valley shoot me a PM and I can forward the contact info (or post it here if that is not against the rules).

What exactly is the locking mechanism? (if there is a standard type) will that help or hurt the project.

I have been reading this thread for a month now and getting ready to build my first smoker!
 

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That red crap is the dreaded liner that you have read about.
You have to get rid of that.
Drill the lower holes, fill it with wood and light.
Stand back and admire your fire building skills, while drinking a beer.

It may take several burns and as many beers.

Weiser
 
Norcoredneck said:
Why burn? Does it have a liner?
Click to expand...


Unfortunately, there was a liner in it.

Threw a tub full of pine cones, pine needles, wood, a match in the drum and grabbed a Tecate....what a site it was.

The wife came out and wondered what the h*** was going on....she thought I'd gone mad by smelling up the neighborhood. She'll get over it.. :)
 
Question about the vent holes in the bottom....

Is there any advantage to using threaded nipples with a cap instead of the conduit plugs like you see on the BDS? or is it just preference?

Also, is there much advantage to putting a ball valve on or just leaving the holes open.
 
I have learned everything that I know from reading the UDS Bible three times and paying attention.

I like the control that the ball valve offers. Combined with two 3/4" nipples and caps, gives you complete control.
There are several guys here that use magnets over the vents and several others that use the BDS system.
I can't comment on those, only on what I know to work. I'm certain that they all will work!

Weiser


MS BBQ said:
Question about the vent holes in the bottom....

Is there any advantage to using threaded nipples with a cap instead of the conduit plugs like you see on the BDS? or is it just preference?

Also, is there much advantage to putting a ball valve on or just leaving the holes open.
Click to expand...
 
MS BBQ said:
Question about the vent holes in the bottom....

Is there any advantage to using threaded nipples with a cap instead of the conduit plugs like you see on the BDS? or is it just preference?

Also, is there much advantage to putting a ball valve on or just leaving the holes open.
Click to expand...
You must have a way of controlling the air flow on one of the intakes be it a magnet, ball valve or flap.

The ball valve is easiest to control- but cost more and sticks out.
The magnet is cheaper - They need to be strong.
Flaps-cheap but need to be made.


As for the threaded nipples it's all up to you, they can be welded in if you fancy it.

I cook with one 3/4 hole open..
to seal it I just stuff with tin foil.
2pr5xma.jpg



And adjust with the ball valve..

nzj58k.jpg
 
I've tried them all and they all can work. My flavour of the day is just an old speaker magnet over the hole. Actually this has become my favorite mostly because it is free and I have them around the garage.
 
I noticed once upon a time pipe bushing were recommended, but I think the idea was ultimately dropped for some reason.

I am curious about the reason as I was planning on using the bushing threaded from the inside (so that the flange would be the inside "nut"), and the 3/4 valve would thread on from the outside.
 
When I built mine I used the 1" nipples without nuts inside.
The threads are nice and tight with a 7/8" hole.
I'm happy with the way it worked out.:-D

Weiser


jcinadr said:
I noticed once upon a time pipe bushing were recommended, but I think the idea was ultimately dropped for some reason.

I am curious about the reason as I was planning on using the bushing threaded from the inside (so that the flange would be the inside "nut"), and the 3/4 valve would thread on from the outside.
Click to expand...
 
Weiser said:
When I built mine I used the 1" nipples without nuts inside.
The threads are nice and tight with a 7/8" hole.
I'm happy with the way it worked out.:-D

Weiser
Click to expand...
My keg prototype used a bushing. The reason I moved from it is now i can weld a pretty bead and the bushings are nearly impossible for me to find.
 
Weiser said:
When I built mine I used the 1" nipples without nuts inside.
The threads are nice and tight with a 7/8" hole.
I'm happy with the way it worked out.:-D

Weiser
Click to expand...

Are you talking length or diameter? A 3/4" dia. pipe nipple threads into a 1" hole but not a 7/8" hole without filing.
 
Weiser said:
You are correct Norco.
What the hell was I thinkin'?:confused:
Thanks for the correction.

Weiser
Click to expand...


Actually made same like kind mistake. See the different color on 1"? Had put 7/8" and Bubba spanked me. A little cut and paste and all is well.
 
I'll betcha that is what I was thinking about!!!
That photo has imprinted on my pea brain.

Weiser
 
Hey guys. I have a question.

So I picked up a drum this afternoon. This whole time I was planning on picking up an open-head drum. When I got there, I realized that the drums there were closed-head. When I read through this thread, I never really planned on a closed head drum so I never sought out advice on removing it. So i guess I have two questions.

1. What is the best way to remove the head? A grinder?
2. Will I still be able to use the head as a lid or will I have to find a lid off of a kettle?

I am going to start reading the thread over again, but would appreciate it if someone that has some knowledge on the topic could provide it here.
 
The guy I purchased mine from had a de-header. He opened the top and bottom for no charge.
He also gave me 2- lids and clamps.

Sawsall and an angle grinder seem to be the tools of choice if the
above isn't an option.

No, what you remove is basically scrap unless of course, you
decide to use it as a flat top on a gas burner.:wink:

Keep reading and good luck!

Weiser


Ninesixteen said:
Hey guys. I have a question.

So I picked up a drum this afternoon. This whole time I was planning on picking up an open-head drum. When I got there, I realized that the drums there were closed-head. When I read through this thread, I never really planned on a closed head drum so I never sought out advice on removing it. So i guess I have two questions.

1. What is the best way to remove the head? A grinder?
2. Will I still be able to use the head as a lid or will I have to find a lid off of a kettle?

I am going to start reading the thread over again, but would appreciate it if someone that has some knowledge on the topic could provide it here.
Click to expand...
 
You will need to find a lid and you can use the cut off section as part of your ash pan.
 
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