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If a Redneck wanted to build a UDS

Home Depot has their stainless in small bags with the words "stainless steel" printed on the bags - price is a bit cheaper than Lowes and more selection including washers, lock washers and many lengths of bolts
 
I'll say this as I do not enjoy dumping my ash pan out - Shopvac. Works very well. I take the filter off, stick the hose in and fill it up. use the air compressor, blow out the motor afterwards and all done. No problem....
 
They use a shop vac also
102.+Hinduism%3B+Naga+Babas+naked+ash+smeared+long+jata.jpg
 
Hey Pat. What is the ideal distance between the coal basket and the first grate? How much room do you want there. I am waiting on an 80 gal (or 85 gal, whatever) drum thatI want to make a UDS out of. I liked yours! Especially the art work on the outside! but i digress. What is that distance? And can you lower the first set of bolts to get more room between lid and cooking surfe, in the case that a dome lid is not available to use?
 
Norco, a good little tool you might want to add to your tutorial for the conduit nuts is a "shower valve socket wrench". The size for a 1" nipple is 1 9/32". They are much easier then the "primative Pete mod". If you use two, one on the inside and one on the outside you can tighten the nuts down great.

If you have to vent smoke out like I do in my little Q shack then a 2"od by 4" pipe nipple works good. I also used conduit nuts on the exhaust pipe, one inside and one outside nice and solid. The 2" pipe seems to be the correct amount of exhaust also. I use a 3" dryer vent and put a tin can inside the vent with hose clamps to make it stronger and stable so hopefully last longer from taking it on and off the exhaust. Also made a little handle because the ventpipe gets a bit hot, especially on my UDG.
 
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Norco - you have never seen me after any of my cooks..... Little ash never hurt anyone.
 
I think all you UDS builders should pitch in and get Pat a present...
 

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Norco, thanks for the great information. It has been said many times, but let me say it again. This is a great tutorial. Love the pics, love the wording on the drum, love the mods.

But seeing this will be my first UDS build, I still have a few questions, and yes, I'm sure they won't be the most brilliant of questions.

1st, Seeing I only have a flat lid, would you still recommend your height of the grill racks. I only plan on have 1 rack, (figure I can make more UDS'r, if I need more space) and not sure if I should raise or lower it from your 8" down.

Next dumb question. I notice in your pics of your air intakes, you only have one with the ball valve. Are the other 2 just capped. If so, what is the purpose of them, or have you just not taken pic's of the other intakes with the valve.

And last but not least. With the reading I have been able to get through, there is still the debate on what kind of bolt hardware to use. It wasn't clear in your pics. Are they just standard zinc, or stainless or something different.

Again, thanks for the great tutorial, it is just what the newbies need to get started. Nice and simple.

Looking forward to my first build.
 
HatchQ4U said:
1st, Seeing I only have a flat lid, would you still recommend your height of the grill racks. I only plan on have 1 rack, (figure I can make more UDS'r, if I need more space) and not sure if I should raise or lower it from your 8" down.

Most important measurment is to maintain minimum 24" from charcoal grate to grill. Keep in mind that I am not finished with my charcoal grate/basket yet.

Next dumb question. I notice in your pics of your air intakes, you only have one with the ball valve. Are the other 2 just capped. If so, what is the purpose of them, or have you just not taken pic's of the other intakes with the valve.

Idea here is if temp has not been reached with 2 caps on and valve full open then reconfigure to 1 cap off and valve closed and opened to get to temp, then 2 caps off (most likely never need 2 caps off). Reverse to lower temp.

And last but not least. With the reading I have been able to get through, there is still the debate on what kind of bolt hardware to use. It wasn't clear in your pics. Are they just standard zinc, or stainless or something different.

I use stainless because of availability to me. If i had to use zinc I would heat with torch and wire brush (avoiding fumes). Probably not necessary but good reason to use weedburner!:twisted:
.
Click to expand...
Hope this helps.
 
Ok guys, here's almost my last question. Does anyone have a clear picture of the "holed" approach on their standard lid? I'm shrinking the cost of the UDS class by the minute and this is one of the last things I need to look at.
 
chinesebob said:
Ok guys, here's almost my last question. Does anyone have a clear picture of the "holed" approach on their standard lid? I'm shrinking the cost of the UDS class by the minute and this is one of the last things I need to look at.
Click to expand...

You mean this one?

UDSLidHoleLayout.jpg
 
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