First i am not the owner of this picture and i hope that this person does not get mad. I took it from who i think is the owner Barbarian. I do not know anyone here and i am sure most of you know whos picture this is but since i am new i felt i needed to show respect.
Can someone tell me how i can do this thermometer idea. I have seen a few people have the temperature guage slide right into the side of the barrel but i have not undestood how they did it.
If you refer to a part can you please use the actuall name of the part so i can go look for it at the hardware store. I have a long stem thermometer and i want to be able to do something like this so i can take it in and out with ease. Please be detailed cause i am new to this. thanks everyone
 

Attachments

  • thermo.jpg
    thermo.jpg
    25.4 KB · Views: 867
I have read, read, rea, and read some more, in fact i have read every page. i am sorry if i cant remember it all. Especially when the person says its "some kind of water line fitting". i was hoping someone could tell me a more specific name.

It's all good. It's a long thread and takes some time to track. I bookmark the stuff I find interesting.

What you need is a Watts A-192 Hose Barb Adapter with 1/4 barb x 1/4 mip.

Home Depot or Lowes sells them. You will also need a nut and a washer.
 
The small plug should have flat edges, a cresent wrench should do the trick. I went with the patented JD vent tabs. I like em cause you can fine tune then a lot more that the pipe nipples and caps method. With the nipple and cap method you will need to either have the entire cap on or off as I understand it. With the JD tabs, they turn on a single screw and can be opened or closed as much as needed, very much like the vent on a Kettle lid.

Whats a JD vent tab. Is that the actual name. Sounds like something that i want to try.
 
I have read, read, rea, and read some more, in fact i have read every page. i am sorry if i cant remember it all. Especially when the person says its "some kind of water line fitting". i was hoping someone could tell me a more specific name.
look at the bag it has the size of the fitting. go to the plumbing section and show or tell them the size you need. take the gauge with you to the store and tell them what you need to do. make sure the probe fits the hole in the fitting, it will be just a little bigger than the probe it will work fine.
 
It's all good. It's a long thread and takes some time to track. I bookmark the stuff I find interesting.

What you need is a Watts A-192 Hose Barb Adapter with 1/4 barb x 1/4 mip.

Home Depot or Lowes sells them. You will also need a nut and a washer.

sweet thank you, after about half way i started writing stuff down on paper so i can remember different numbers and such.

Ill go look for this part and then try and figure out what size hole i will need to drill in the barrel.
 
I have read, read, rea, and read some more, in fact i have read every page. i am sorry if i cant remember it all. Especially when the person says its "some kind of water line fitting". i was hoping someone could tell me a more specific name.

Print this picture and tell the people @ HD or Lowes that you want one JUST LIKE IT.

(Just posting the pic that Boshizzle linked to)
PICT0002-9.jpg
 
Whats a JD vent tab. Is that the actual name. Sounds like something that i want to try.
Cover the intakes with magnets it will save you money and works great, you can always change it out later to the JD method. JD is a brethern here and he made a way to seal the intakes with a spring and metal. I foget the post number. I took a bunch of notes when I read this thread.
 
Whats a JD vent tab. Is that the actual name. Sounds like something that i want to try.

Here you go, Bro! Patented JD McGeeVent Tabs.........make sure you send him a check for using his idea.........This idea works like a charm, is true to the drum (cheap and easy and REALLY gets the job done.......kinda like this girl I dated in college for a long time--cheap and easy is a good thing!:-D) You can adjust the tab side to side to really fine tune the amount of air going into each one. Buy some decent gauge sheet metal or just scrounge some metal form somewhere. You will need tin snip pliers (these are not cheap), but maybe you can go to a sheet metal shop and ask them if they can cut a few tabs for you. I think a six pack would cover the cost at the right shop right around closing time on a Friday. Don't ask how I know. But it works. They are about 3" by 1".
http://www.bbq-brethren.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39366&highlight=JD+vent+tabs
It's best to drill or punch a small hole with a nail into the tab first (only the tab, not the drum). Otherwise the screw will spin that tab around as it goes in and can cut you or scratch up the drum. Drill in till its tight, don't strip it or it won't hold fer chit anymore and then you need to go to a bigger size screw.
All you need is a drill, self tapping metal screws and the socket.
Here's how I did it.....
4349889511_faf22007b8_o.jpg

4349889531_8fd961f317_o.jpg

Easy Peasy!
To this day, my tabs are only drilled in tight, no welding, no JB Weld, no nothing and they have never loosened up and I have never had to tighten them.
 
Last edited:


Great idea, but still a bit of overkill IMO. If you have the bench vise go for it, but then you need the springs, special bolts, etc, That set up will run you about 15-20 bucks once you get all the parts.
JD's---probably less than 5 if you have the sheet metal or any thin metal already on hand. Something you can bend with some needlenose pliers or even off the end of a counter top with a hammer, rubber mallet, or even a block of 2x4.
 
Ok guys, i have a quick question. I scored a cheap 22.5 inch kettle($5, booya). I am going to use as much of this baby as possible in the building of my UDS(Lid, cooking Grate, the bottom lip for a flange). My question is, can i use the bottom grate from the UDS for the Charcoal Box? Or will that be too small? I can score another grate, but if this would work, why waste it?
 
Ok guys, i have a quick question. I scored a cheap 22.5 inch kettle($5, booya). I am going to use as much of this baby as possible in the building of my UDS(Lid, cooking Grate, the bottom lip for a flange). My question is, can i use the bottom grate from the UDS for the Charcoal Box? Or will that be too small? I can score another grate, but if this would work, why waste it?

What diameter? Thing with using it is if it a cheapgrill then = cheap grate and will rust out quicker. But better than just tossing it.
 
Ok guys, i have a quick question. I scored a cheap 22.5 inch kettle($5, booya). I am going to use as much of this baby as possible in the building of my UDS(Lid, cooking Grate, the bottom lip for a flange). My question is, can i use the bottom grate from the UDS for the Charcoal Box? Or will that be too small? I can score another grate, but if this would work, why waste it?

Weber kettle or a copy cat kettle? The Weber coal grate is perfect for the drum basket. Norco is spot on, if it's from a cheap knock off and not the quality of the Weber grate, then you may want to get something a little beefier so it last longer. 5 bones is a great score though for a donor kettle.
 
A steel grill is usually made of welded wire or rod stock. Expanded metal mesh is made w/o welding. It starts with rolled plate that is slit. The interupted, alternating, parrallel slits form a diamond shaped holes when the sheet is expanded (stretched wider). It is not necessarily perfectly flat, due to the expansion (one side of the diamond is low, the other high), but this can be pressed back out.
 
I was thinking now that i am basically have all the parts i need on a list and am going to attempt my first UDS. is there some kind of ratio or rule of thumb between the amount of intake you have compared to the size of exhaust

For example if you have 3 one inch holes for the intake, do you want to make sure you have the 2 inch bung hole open wide AND another 1 inch hole drilled out on top. (i know you can adjust the intakes with magnets but lets forget about that right now) i am just wondering if i should use just the one 2 inch bung hole or should i pop off the second one to help eliminate a hot spot and allow more exhaust out compared to whats comming in.
 

Attachments

  • CIMG0003.jpg
    CIMG0003.jpg
    25.9 KB · Views: 854
Back
Top