Making Progress

Just made this charcoal basket out of perf'd stainless. Doing a burn tomorrow and hopefully cooking on Thursday.

Basket1Copy.jpg


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I am considering using a "repurposed" shopping cart I have as a charcoal basket for my uds. it is painted, but i'm sure a good burn will take care of the paint. Does anybody have any other concerns that I'm not thinking about?

Aren't most shopping carts galvanized? You can get the steel grate most of us use at homedepot for $20.Throw a 20% HF coupon on it and you pay $16.

brickie
 
Aren't most shopping carts galvanized? You can get the steel grate most of us use at homedepot for $20.Throw a 20% HF coupon on it and you pay $16.

brickie

i was thinking that since it was painted, it would be plain steel under, but you may be right.
 
I am in interested in building my own uds after reading over the wealth of information in this forum (and others). I have found a source for $10 drums here in Pasadena, TX, the only problem is they held race fuel. I have read mixed feelings in regards to this being safe to use for a cooker. What are ya'lls feelings regarding these drums.

Mine originally had diesel oil in it. A couple of good scrubbings, a long and HOT burn, and more scrubbing/sanding and you should be good to go...especially if race fuel tastes as good as diesel oil......:becky:
 
I am in interested in building my own uds after reading over the wealth of information in this forum (and others). I have found a source for $10 drums here in Pasadena, TX, the only problem is they held race fuel. I have read mixed feelings in regards to this being safe to use for a cooker. What are ya'lls feelings regarding these drums.

IMHO I would not do it, but it is your health. Metal is porous and I do not care how many burns you do, there will be always a chance that stuff can leak out. There is a reason why they make "food grade" drums. The spray on liner stops any contamination entering the bare metal. Hope this :help:
 
If metal is so porous what keeps the racing fuel from just leaking out through the metal?

Or how could steel be used to hold.a.gas with small molecules like hydrogen?
 
If metal is so porous what keeps the racing fuel from just leaking out through the metal?

Or how could steel be used to hold.a.gas with small molecules like hydrogen?

Dude, I have never seen hydrogen or any gas transported in steel drum - did you? They use special gas cylinders.

And I never said that metal is "so porous" it is somewhat, but go head and use it I do not care. I was just answering his ? :rockon:
 
alright, im moving forward with my uds build. im going to pick up a $10 race fuel drum friday (i was worried about the fuel tank but thought about how many large offset smokers are made from old lp tanks). i have a salvaged old smokey grill (extra large) for grates and lid. im gonna build my charcoal basket out of my "repurposed" shopping cart (worried about being galvanized but checked areas where paint was chipped away and much to my delight i noticed surface rust which means not galvanized correct?!?) so its looking like i will have sweet blue billowing out of this thing while only spending like $30 unless something goes seriously wrong. wish me luck!
 
Dude, I have never seen hydrogen or any gas transported in steel drum - did you? They use special gas cylinders.

And I never said that metal is "so porous" it is somewhat, but go head and use it I do not care. I was just answering his ? :rockon:
Those "Special Cylinders " are made of steel. A little thicker guage but steel. Surface of steel is not smooth it is microscopically rough but not pourous by no means it does not absorb.
 
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picked up my drum and some plumbing odds and ends today

I picked up my drum today to begin my UDS build. I am in the process of rinsing out with dish soap and water before i begin the beheading process. I also stopped by home depot and picked up my pipe nipples and caps. I still need to get to harbor freight to pick up my one inch ball valve (considerably cheaper than home depot especially with the 20% off and free multimeter. My Old Smokey lid fit pretty good, does need a little fine tuning but not bad for now. This is going to be a fun build.
 

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Well, I think that I am finally finished. I think that I have a functional smoker, now all it needs are modifications to make it better. It has been a fun journey and almost obsession. I am new to smoking and was looking for a used smoker on craigslist when I saw someone selling a 55 gallon drum and said that it could be converted into a smoker. Then I googled “how do you make a smoker from a 55 gallon drum” and ended up here. I have read through 500+ pages of the thread and I think that I got it right. I have never smoked anything in my life, so we will see how it goes.

I started by buying a drum from Dayton Industrial Drum. They sell reconditioned drums for $40. My next door neighbor is the fire chief in my neighborhood so a huge burn would have been a no-no. They actually sold me a new drum for the same price. I had asked for one without a liner, and luckily I stopped at Lowes on my way home to pick up some things and I noticed that the drum had the red liner. I exchanged it for an unlined drum that has a lid. It is the lid with the 2” bung and the inside is ready to go. I cleaned it out and prepared to get to work. I bought a $10 step bit from amazon.com and borrowed a drill from a friend. The bit from amazon worked great. I used 2 ¾” pipe nipples with caps and one ¾” ball valve.
I put the cooking grate a little lower than the 24” recommendations because I anticipate cooking more chickens than anything. I set it lower so that I can use the beer-can method and still fit the lid on. The grate is about 21” above the bottom of the charcoal basket.

I bought a 2’ X 2’ sheet of expanded metal at home depot and replacement weber grill and charcoal grates. The hardest part was probably cutting the expanded metal and forming it into a circle. I used old tin snips and a lot of elbow grease (and a lot of blood from tiny cuts in my hands and fingers) and was able to cut the expanded metal in half. I then bent it into a shape that is irregular but a little more oval than circular. I think that it will work. It is held together with bolts and attached to the charcoal grate with bar ties. I hope that they hold. The charcoal grate is elevated on 4 3” bolts. I bought a piece of 2” pipe and an elbow for it and plan to use that as a chimney and a hook for the lid. I had an old turkey fryer in the garage that I took the thermometer from. Using the ¼” hose barb adapter, a few washers, and some other part in the same section that I fit on the outside.

I intend to add an ash pan later but for starters will probably put a few layers of foil on the bottom. I also need to add a bottle opener and paint the thing. My goal was to get it ready for the Super Bowl, and I made it.
Today I seasoned the drum with Crisco, cooked a fatty and a chicken. The fatty was my first - an unstuffed tube of sausage covered with a rub I made today. It was excellent. I also cooked a chicken on it. Before putting any of the food on, the temperature inside got to almost 425. Then I shut things down, and got it down to about 225, which is when I put the fatty and bird on. It seemed pretty easy to keep it there, but at one point it dropped to about 150. I had to jostle the drum and then grab something to shake the charcoal basket. But it came back up, and the fatty finished in about 3 hours. Then I opened things up again and it got to 400 quickly. This made the skin nice and crispy. After taking the bird off, I shut things down and an hour later it was less than 100.

Here is what typically happens when I take on some sort of project that involves tools. I work at it for a while and then get really frustrated and pissed off. Then I go to the hardware store and buy something that is supposed to help. Then I continue to work at it and get even more pissed off. Then I hire someone to do it. So, if I am able to do this, then I believe that anyone can.

Here are pictures showing the almost finished product and some pron.


drum2.jpg



drum1t.jpg



drum3d.jpg




drum4.jpg



drum5.jpg


drum6.jpg

Shot at 2012-02-03
 
I guess its time for me to stop lurking.

I have seen so many setups and all claim close to the same results, (4) 1/2" intakes, (3) 3/4", (3) 1"......(4) 1/2" exhaust, (12) 1/2 " exhaust, (1) 2" exhaust...etc

The variables are so far off they cant all be working that well, can they? Shouldn't there scientifically be a sweet spot for intake and exhaust? Is there one size that works better?
 
I guess its time for me to stop lurking.

I have seen so many setups and all claim close to the same results, (4) 1/2" intakes, (3) 3/4", (3) 1"......(4) 1/2" exhaust, (12) 1/2 " exhaust, (1) 2" exhaust...etc

The variables are so far off they cant all be working that well, can they? Shouldn't there scientifically be a sweet spot for intake and exhaust? Is there one size that works better?


It will take a few cooks to dial in your drum...with all the variables this build is forgiving.

That said I'd LOVE to see a poll(s) to determine the MCD (most common denominator)....the MCD UDS poll could "standardize" size\number air intake and exaust...size\volume basket....grill height...etc

Would also like to see how much air intake is open when cruising at a steady temp...say 300°F. This info "should" speed up the dialing in exercise.
 
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I guess its time for me to stop lurking.

I have seen so many setups and all claim close to the same results, (4) 1/2" intakes, (3) 3/4", (3) 1"......(4) 1/2" exhaust, (12) 1/2 " exhaust, (1) 2" exhaust...etc

The variables are so far off they cant all be working that well, can they? Shouldn't there scientifically be a sweet spot for intake and exhaust? Is there one size that works better?

They all work. If you drive a 4 cylinder or a V8, they both can go 60 mph. Just might take longer to get up to speed.
 
One thing about the various size holes, most people have some way of regulating at least intake. So exhaust size isn't quit as critical.
 
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