I'd check the fit first...my drum was a closed top, all I had to do was grind the top ring down some for a snug fit. The top ring on a open top drum is massive compared to a closed top.

Slid it on top tonight. Looked like I may be able to do as you explained.

Decisions....Decisions..... :doh:
 
I wanted a domed lid for several reasons but did not want to cut up or beat up my 22-1/2” Weber. Using ideas I found in this MOAUDS thread from several posters, I cut the lip from the drum lid with a pneumatic cutting wheel retaining a 1” rim all the way around. The lid from a 22-1/2” UniFlame grill from Wallyworld fit snugly inside the lip ring with some minor persuasion. Man, the metal on that cheap lid is thin. I was afraid it would blow right through if I tried to spot weld it to the ring; finally ended up using some medium temp brazing rod to attach it.

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Brothers, I am happy to report the following scoring update:

After a hard fought:cry:, 3 day:doh:, triple overtime battle:boxing:, I finally came out victorious. :clap2:

Me : 1 Nasty-azz, PITA, are you farking kidding me, beige liner : 0

Scoreboard!

Congratulations on a hard fought victory.
 
Ok found a company very close to me just not sure which one I should get.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]55 gallon Reconditioned Open Head Steel Drums[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]- 17H Construction - UN 1A2/Y1.2/100 & Non-UN
- 2" x 3/4" Fittings in Cover
- 12 Gauge Bolt Ring with 5/8" Nut & Bolt or Lever Lock Ring
- Most have a Black Body & White Cover
[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Part# 26WR55
- 55 gallon Open Head Reconditioned Steel Drum - Unlined w/ Bolt Ring (UN 1A2/Y1.2/100)

Part# 26WR58
- 55 gallon Open Head Reconditioned Steel Drum - Unlined w/ Lever Lock Ring (NON-UN)
[/FONT]

Now should I get the bolt ring or Lever Lock? Or does it even matter?
 
Ok found a company very close to me just not sure which one I should get.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]55 gallon Reconditioned Open Head Steel Drums[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]- 17H Construction - UN 1A2/Y1.2/100 & Non-UN [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]- 2" x 3/4" Fittings in Cover[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]- 12 Gauge Bolt Ring with 5/8" Nut & Bolt or Lever Lock Ring [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]- Most have a Black Body & White Cover [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Part# 26WR55 [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]- 55 gallon Open Head Reconditioned Steel Drum - Unlined w/ Bolt Ring (UN 1A2/Y1.2/100)[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Part# 26WR58[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] - 55 gallon Open Head Reconditioned Steel Drum - Unlined w/ Lever Lock Ring (NON-UN)[/FONT]

Now should I get the bolt ring or Lever Lock? Or does it even matter?

You going to use the drum lid as your smoker lid or are you going to use a donor grill dome?
 
You going to use the drum lid as your smoker lid or are you going to use a donor grill dome?

I was just going to use the drum lid as the lid and put a weber handle on it. Was thinking if I had to move this that the lever lock might be a good idea. The lock can be removed and set aside until needed is my thinking.


Im going over all the threads right now and only concern I have is making the charcoal basket. I had back surgery so need a design to work with that in mind.
 
If you're going to use the drum lid as the smoker lid, then I'd definitely go with the lever lock. That way you can keep the ring and use it to lock down the lid during cooking. It will give you a much tighter seal. If you used the bolt ring, it would be a much bigger PITA.

That being said, I've seen guys who've take the bolts out of the ring and just used a spring clamp to hold it in place.

But if you've got the choice, go lever-lock.
 
If you're going to use the drum lid as the smoker lid, then I'd definitely go with the lever lock. That way you can keep the ring and use it to lock down the lid during cooking. It will give you a much tighter seal. If you used the bolt ring, it would be a much bigger PITA.

That being said, I've seen guys who've take the bolts out of the ring and just used a spring clamp to hold it in place.

But if you've got the choice, go lever-lock.


Local place has em for $42 bucks and unlinered.
 
Go with the lever lock. No chance of losing the bolt or the nut and no need for a wrench or pliers to tighten the band.

Chris
 
Sorry guys, i'm new here and haven't managed to trawl all of this epic thread yet so if this has been addressed I apologise: how important is the shape of the charcoal basket? I planned to use a slightly dished mesh (10#) that is quite sturdy and made of stainless. Is this likely to cause me any problems? I was gonna use it as this is a basic as can be UDS build from whatever I can lay my hands on.

That will be just fine bro!!!
 
First UDS

Hey everyone, This is my second post now. I have been lurking for a while and finally joined the forum to share the UDS I just finished today and am currently doing the seasoning burn on. I was lucky enough to obtain a new unlined drum so I put it to good use. I didn't try to reinvent the wheel here I just did a build that is pretty common here on the forum. Three 1" intakes, one with a ball valve. Charcoal basket made from a Weber grate and expanded sheet metal. Weber grilling rack. I cut the 2" bung from a lid off a 15 gallon drum for the exhaust. Gonna throw some Brats one here in a few and hopefully will smoke a couple Tri-Tip roasts tomorrow. Thanks to everyone here for the inspiration and guidance I used to make my Ugly Drum Smoker!
:clap2:

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If you look at the earlier posts, no one used a clamp on the flat llid. No need to. It just wasn't needed. Keeping the UDS simple, without too many overthinking what to do, will serve you well. Try lthe most primative and simple UDS build and the change what you want. Just a thought bros!
 
I am now a believer.

I read over and over again to avoid the pesky red liner in the 55 gallon drums.

Of course - I had to go and find not one but TWO drums with that liner. Let me tell you - what a farkin pain in the backside to get rid of that.

Over the course of 2 days, I FINALLY got rid of one of the liners in one of my barrels.

I am thinking that the second barrel will have the top third chopped off to be an extra shelf and the bottom 2/3 will become a fire pit on my hunting land.
 
Well just got done cooking some brats on my new UDS. I am really liking this thing. I can't believe how easy it has been to adjust the temerature. I have been playing with the intakes and the temps are now pretty predictable. Humming along now at ~250F
 
I've been lurking here for a while getting ideas. Today I'm finally putting the lid on my UDS for the first time!

Here is what I've done that others may find helpful: My drum was one I found that had been used >20 years ago for burning trash. It was nothing but rust inside, the liner had been burned out through years of use. I used electrolysis to remove the rust. I took iron rebar, attached it to the positive terminal of a battery charger (6amp), and suspended it in the barrel. I attached the negative terminal to the drum (sand it a bit for a good connection). I filled the barrel with water and plugged in the charger. 24 hours later, rust was peeling off the barrel and the 3/8 iron rod was an inch thick with rust. I didn't have to do any sanding to the inside (although I did, and I cleaned it with TSP and rinsed several times). After it dried I coated it with oil to prevent new rust. I use a bug sprayer filled with vegetable oil to season my cookers.

The lid was hard to find. I learned that the companies who build small storage sheds get their paint in these drums and the one in my area was eager to give me as many lids, locking rings and drums that I wanted for free. They are lined. It has taken me a week of working 2 hours a night to remove the liner from the lid.

Anyway, that was how I got my drum and lid. I haven't seen these resources posted so I thought I would share. If you can't find an unlined drum, you can find an old, rusty drum and use the electrolysis method. It makes life much easier than trying to get that liner out.
 
So I have read through maybe 80% of this thread and I am sure the answer was in there somewhere, but I don't recall which post.

I know using galvanized and zinc coated is not good for the inside of the barrel, but is it ok to use zinc coated handles for instance. The only handles that I have found at the local hardware are all zinc coated (for the top lid and side of barrel).

Also, what are some suggestions for alternative handles that wont get too hot to touch.

Thanks for your help
 
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So I have read through maybe 80% of this thread and I am sure the answer was in there somewhere, but I don't recall which post.

I know using galvanized and zinc coated is not good for the inside of the barrel, but is it ok to use zinc coated handles for instance. The only handles that I have found at the local hardware are all zinc coated (for the top lid and side of barrel).

Also, what are some suggestions for alternative handles that wont get too hot to touch.

Thanks for your help

1) When the zinc is on the outside of the drum, it's okay. Also, for the threaded portion that is on the inside, you can take a torch to it and burn off the zinc. Just hold your breath/don't breathe the fumes.
2) I've found handles dissipate the heat fairly quick, esp. since the temp on a cooker doesn't really go above 250 at any given point (unless you want it to). Another alternative is the Weber handles which are plastic. On my drum, I'm using two simple cabinet handles - cheapest I could find.
 
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