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Stick burner in the Making

Thanks everyone. I'm excited to see what it will look like!

Triple T BBQ said:
Looking good. I am not sure what else is next but you might think about increasing the bracing between the tank and the 3x5 tubing you have coming up though the floor. Also watch the weight. That steel tread plate is not light. You may end up needing another axle if you keep going with all the steel. Just food for thought. Looking great.
Click to expand...

What did you mean by increasing the bracing between the tank and the tubing? A vertical increase? We calculated the heighth of the 2x4 supports in relation to the box/chamber opening. The firebox is recessed 4in below the flooring with the 2x4 supports. I'll tell you what the plan is so far. We are of course going to weld the tank to the 2x4 piping (there are two of these supports). We are also going to take a heavy-duty 5 1/2in bolt and fasten it to the frame inside of each tube. Our grease trap will also be fed through the 2x4 piping to keep it hidden. We are going to be building closed storage space up about 14-16in high (this will be butted up against the back of the chamber and on the smoke stack end). The chamber shouldn't move, roll, or otherwise. What are your thoughts?

Also, we have two axels on the trailer..it's just hard to tell because we only have 2 wheels on it right now. We'll be getting the wheels as soon as we need them (who knows when that will be). If anyone knows where to getem' cheap, let me know!Thought about electric breaks, but we don't think we'll really need them.
 
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Triple T BBQ said:
Looking good. I am not sure what else is next but you might think about increasing the bracing between the tank and the 3x5 tubing you have coming up though the floor. Also watch the weight. That steel tread plate is not light. You may end up needing another axle if you keep going with all the steel. Just food for thought. Looking great.
Click to expand...


i agree those 2 little rectangle tubes arent enough the side to side vibrations/wiggle will snap welds eventually, i would weld 2 uprights from frame to mid way up pipe on the back to reinforce and maybe the front also.
as for the double axle i didnt see it either in pics i must have missed it but u will prob need it, as long as your using a decent truck to pull you wont need brakes till 3000 lbs as long as your right foot behaves and you know how to drive with a trailer
I love build threads! keep going its looking great!:clap2::clap2::clap2:
 
ChamberRear.jpg


the black parts are what i was talking about or maybe a full/half moon brace front and rear
 
Thank you. I may install something to aid in this..maybe miter some angle iron for each end. after the framing for my storage goes up all around the back of chamber, I don't think I'll need anything around the back. The front..might be a safe idea!

The axle is hard to see but the tandem fenders are there. they just arent pretty yet :tongue:

EDIT: the back support you have in the diagram is about as high as my enclosed (soundly framed) storage will be all along that side. This is what I was planning to use for back support. What do you think?
 
yes the frame from the storage area behind the pit would work great if you weld the two together! either way looking awesome, subscribed!
 
mr dirts bbq said:
yes the frame from the storage area behind the pit would work great if you weld the two together! either way looking awesome, subscribed!
Click to expand...

I was thinking about tacking it. Thanks for the support. I love getting suggestions or affirmations..It really makes you think the whole process over. Hopefully, during the build, I won't miss anything with all the watchful eyes! You guys are great!
 
Side note about welding metals of differing thickness. One thing you can do is to try to keep most of the heat and weld on the thicker metal and tack it over (sew it in) onto the thinner metal... OR, what I usually do, is to set the machine for maximum penetration on the thinner metal that I can without burn through, and then just weld it like I normally would any seam. Theory there is your weld connection is only going to be as strong as your lightest material used, so if you are welding 1/8 to 3/8 and it is going to break, the 1/8 will give way before your weld OR the 3/8 will anyway... Hope I'm not being too confusing.

In simple terms it all goes back to a chain only being as strong as its weakest link. No matter what kind of filler you are using or what the tensile strength is, the union will only hold what the base metal is capable of.

BTW, your project looks great! Keep us posted on progress
 
ThatsWhatSheSaidBBQ said:
Thanks everyone. I'm excited to see what it will look like!



What did you mean by increasing the bracing between the tank and the tubing? A vertical increase? We calculated the heighth of the 2x4 supports in relation to the box/chamber opening. The firebox is recessed 4in below the flooring with the 2x4 supports. I'll tell you what the plan is so far. We are of course going to weld the tank to the 2x4 piping (there are two of these supports). We are also going to take a heavy-duty 5 1/2in bolt and fasten it to the frame inside of each tube. Our grease trap will also be fed through the 2x4 piping to keep it hidden. We are going to be building closed storage space up about 14-16in high (this will be butted up against the back of the chamber and on the smoke stack end). The chamber shouldn't move, roll, or otherwise. What are your thoughts?

Also, we have two axels on the trailer..it's just hard to tell because we only have 2 wheels on it right now. We'll be getting the wheels as soon as we need them (who knows when that will be). If anyone knows where to getem' cheap, let me know!Thought about electric breaks, but we don't think we'll really need them.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you will have it braced. It looked like from the inital pictures that the tank was just going to be sitting on the two pieces of 2x4 piping and I assumed it would be welded. Would have been concerned that with the weight of the tank it might just twist it's self off there. With the firebox at the back it should be fine I would think.

I picked up my rims at a swap meet but craigs list and ebay are always nice. If your state requires brakes you might want to check. You may need at least brakes on one axle. MN requires brakes on all trailers that are rated at 3500lbs or more. Nothing like getting pulled over by the state troopers and having them right you for equipment violations. I picked mine up at northerntool online in the clearance section since they are in the process of switching suppliers. Was cheaper than doing electric drum brakes including the hose kit and master cylinder.
 
Triple T BBQ said:
Sounds like you will have it braced. It looked like from the inital pictures that the tank was just going to be sitting on the two pieces of 2x4 piping and I assumed it would be welded. Would have been concerned that with the weight of the tank it might just twist it's self off there. With the firebox at the back it should be fine I would think.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I agree. I don't think it'll be moving anytime soon. The fb, back support from the storage, and the resting supports will be more than enough. It's going to be welded and bolted in a few places.

Triple T BBQ said:
I picked up my rims at a swap meet but craigs list and ebay are always nice. If your state requires brakes you might want to check. You may need at least brakes on one axle. MN requires brakes on all trailers that are rated at 3500lbs or more. Nothing like getting pulled over by the state troopers and having them right you for equipment violations. I picked mine up at northerntool online in the clearance section since they are in the process of switching suppliers. Was cheaper than doing electric drum brakes including the hose kit and master cylinder.
Click to expand...

I try to check CL as often as possible. Swap meets should start picking up in a month or two. I may check NT online and see what I can find. I'll also check my state regulations out of curiousity. It'd be good to know! Thanks again.
 
ThatsWhatSheSaidBBQ said:
I try to check CL as often as possible. Swap meets should start picking up in a month or two. I may check NT online and see what I can find. I'll also check my state regulations out of curiousity. It'd be good to know! Thanks again.
Click to expand...


No problem. great build. Keep it going with more pics so we can keep up. I wish i had as much room as you have. I couldn't find an old bass boat trailer which is what I was looking for originally too. Nice find! Sounds like the price was right too!!

I checked your state regs and they indicate that you don't have to have additional brakes although given the weight you may end up with i think it would be a good idea.

I think I went a little overboard on mine but what the heck. You gotta have some fun along the way too. :thumb:
 
Not to be a party pooper but... I have some serious concerns about the structural stability of what you are building. You have been using an 80-90 amp 110V MIG welder. On 3/16" steel, Miller's welding calculator calls for 160-170 amps and 1/4" calls for 180-190 amps. 110V MIG's are notorious for giving welds with little to no penetration. In my opinon, 110V MIG's are not good for anything over sheet metal. Couple that with the dynamics stresses of a trailer going down the highway, and you have a recipe for disaster. I strongly urge you to consider letting a professional do the welding with the proper equipment so that no one gets hurt. Again, not trying to rain on your parade, but it needs to be said.
 
Looks like the stick burner is doing a much better job of handling the work. Also it seems you have lots of deck space for add-ons. I've really enjoyed the progress so far and can't wait for the next installment. :-D
 
morgaj1 said:
Not to be a party pooper but... I have some serious concerns about the structural stability of what you are building. You have been using an 80-90 amp 110V MIG welder. On 3/16" steel, Miller's welding calculator calls for 160-170 amps and 1/4" calls for 180-190 amps. 110V MIG's are notorious for giving welds with little to no penetration. In my opinon, 110V MIG's are not good for anything over sheet metal. Couple that with the dynamics stresses of a trailer going down the highway, and you have a recipe for disaster. I strongly urge you to consider letting a professional do the welding with the proper equipment so that no one gets hurt. Again, not trying to rain on your parade, but it needs to be said.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the concern. As mojo pointed out, we shelved the MIG and got an arc welder. It's doing fine and all of the welds are solid. We'll be taking everything back down most likely to hit the frame with some por15. Once we finish that, we'll secure the chamber. We also got the firebox in, so we'll likely work on that a bit also..it's huge..the outer layer is 31" and inner is 26.. I'll definitely keep everyone up to date. Thanks guys!

EDIT: Thanks TRIPLE-T for checking those state regs! Very much appreciated!
 
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